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1950 Evinrude 75hp

F

fishingfan

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"I recently acquired the above

"I recently acquired the above engine. It is in fairly decent condition, but I do not know if it runs or not, it has been sitting in a basement for years. I was wondering if there is anything in particular I need to know about this engine in order to get it running. Oil/fuel ratio or anything like that would be helpful. Also, how to work all the knobs and dials, I have no idea what positions they need to be in.

Thanks much for any help guys."
 
"First is the pressure tank- i

"First is the pressure tank- it is special to that engine. It should be sealed (no vent) and have a primer knob you push in a few times to get fuel to the motor. (24/1 mix)

Next- (in neutral)open throttle to the stop- or no more than 1/3.

Take the idle mixture adjuster (top one) and open to the stop-about 1/4 turn-

Pull thru (it should be in the water as it has a rubber pump) if it starts, be ready to adjust the mixture closed to keep from flooding. If it doesn't start, use the choke. If it spudders and dies, open the choke-- they flood in a second.

when it warms up and you are under way, adjust the main jet a tiny bit at a time till it purrs. Then adjust the idle for trolling and do the main again after the idle is set--they effect one another. Once set, loosen the center screw and possition the indicator on the knob to the center. That way you will know where it runs the best.

You should change the oil in the lower and the water pump."
 
"Yup the fuel tank is on top.

"Yup the fuel tank is on top.

Thanks for the reply William, that is exactly what I was looking for. Just a few questions though. You say it has a rubber pump so I am assuming it is water-cooled, right?

And as far as the pressure tank goes, I'm not sure it has one. The gas tank on top does have a vent and but no noticable primer knob. The only knob on top is one that says "Clutch"

When you say open the throttle to stop, I assume you mean the lever on the face of the engine? How do you shift into neutral/reverse/forward?

Sorry for all the hassle but I really appreciate all this information. Thanks again."
 
"Remove flywheel in order to i

"Remove flywheel in order to inspect coils etc. Old coils are know to crack open when sitting for a great length of time.

That carburetor will require cleaning I'm sure.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"OK- had the next model in min

"OK- had the next model in mind-(it was the 7.5 hp threw me- most of those were under 5 hp.) you have the pumpkin motor with the thumb wheel by the gas tank and belly button idle jet. My mistake. But you may have the tower points as they changed to the more "modern" system in there some where. This is one of my favorite motors as it took so long to die when you screw up the carb adjustments. They sound real cool with that belly button jet spits at you when it gets to lean. Mix fuel at 24/1 as this was an "all bushing" motor.

Don't believe it had a reverse. The neutral was a cable which un wound a wire clutch in the lower.

Yes water cooled. May have the "keyhole" pump running on the prop shaft--which means no pump when in neutral.

This motor required some maintenance --like greasing the water pump and keeping some water proof grease in the lower as the seals almost never would hold oil.

The "choke" was a primer pump which squirted fuel in the carb when you pushed down on the top thumb wheel. The thumb wheel was also the main jet. You could get some to adjust up and run "untouched", but most needed a small adjustment when going from high speed to low speed.

So have fun with your real ground breaking motor. If you want to see it in the movies, rent "The Birds" It is the motor near the beginning when the girl takes the canaries across Bodega Bay."
 
"Well I watched the video- how

"Well I watched the video- how cool is that? Also am ashamed to say I'm still in brain fart heaven -I was way off on the model. I do remember this motor, it had most of the modern features of the curren motors. The "pumpkin" motor I was thinking of is the last pic in the video about davids next project."
 
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