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1938 LS-38 2.1HP - Tips on removing gearcase

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BatteryMan

New member
I got the motor on this beauty running very well (see video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0tN1uALOlE); however, the brand new oil I injected into the gearcase turned into thick, brown pudding after running only one hour in the test tank.

I'm looking for tips on removing the gearcase section from this motor. I have removed the anti-cavitation plate and the gearcase plate behind the prop. I uncoupled the water pump output tube from the lower unit also. This loosened the gearbox, but the driveshaft seems to be holding everything in. Don't want to tear into it too much more without checking with you guys first.

Any tips?
 
A couple good pointers here. I'll try a little cleansing, heat, and other pursuasions next. Please note that I already drained and replaced the old gear oil with brand new gear oil. I ran the motor in a test tank for one hour, and drained the oil again to check for signs of water. I saw no water or any signs of the bright blue oil I had just put in the gearbox-- instead, goopy gunk the consistency and color of chocolate pudding oozed out of the drain plug.

Thanks kimcrbr for the website.
 
That engine might have been made before proper seal rings with SST springs were invented!
If old type 'leather' seals and gaskets, they will be dissolved and ruined if putting in newer type gear oil.
Not familiar with this engine, but got some experience from other older types using brass type gear boxes and compressed type of 'washers' as seals. Most of them used a grease type lubricant, thicker than the EP 90 gear oil, thinner than normal grease. Here a 'modern' version:
http://www.finalube.com/Product_Data_Files/Fina_Branded_PDF_Files/pag_gearbox_grease_pdf.pdf
 
Haffiman,
You are correct. Factory requirement was for "waterproof, non-channeling grease. Your recommendation was right on. Another option is Lubriplate #105 which can be found at Napa auto parts. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
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