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115hp evinrude

C

chef

New member
I have what appears to be a fu

I have what appears to be a fuel problem I belive it floods itself out while it sits it starts up fine first thing and runs great but getting it restarted after it sits for an hour or so is a nightmare I know it is getting constant spark and it is getting gas I have gone so far as to change the plugs with new ones still wont start even starter fluid doesnt do anything the only way I can get it started is to dissconnect the fuel line from the engine itself and turn it over after 10 to 30 itmes it does eventually start right up.is there a diphram that is suppose to stop fuel from going into the ports or is it the fuel pump i was told that if it was the fuel pump it would not start at all.or do the carburators need to be adjusted or what do you think it is please write me back if you have an idea or any suggestions thanks for your time.
 
so its a '77 evinrude 115

so its a '77 evinrude 115

have you checked the fuel pump diaphram....it could suck gas straight into the motor and flood it or over rev it at idle if the diap is bad

you dont need to be spraying starter fluid into carb if you have to prime it that way use pre-mix in a spray bottle---starter fluid has no lubrication

when you pump the primer bulb can you see gas coming out of the carbs?
 
sorry i forgot to tell what ye

sorry i forgot to tell what year it is

thank you i thoght it was that as well i will check on that tomm.

no i dont see any gas coming from the carbs.
 
"your primer bulb acts as the

"your primer bulb acts as the fuel pump when you first start it, by pumping it you fill the carb bowls, so it doesnt need the fuel pump to start just to stay running."
 
oh i forgot to mention the rea

oh i forgot to mention the reason i asked if fuel came out of the carbs when you pumped the primer is because i thought you may have a dirty carb
 
so with your last message it c

so with your last message it cant be the fuel pump is there anthing that would alow fuel to just keep coming into the engine while it is not running beceause now i am leadind toward adjusting the carbs or the float pins are worn and alow gas to enter well please write back with suggestions
 
"After running awhile, then si

"After running awhile, then sitting, the water drains out of the engine resulting in the engine becoming rather hot in the flywheel area.

Under that flywheel is the stator which is the beginning of both the ignition and charging system. That stator has a large coil at the front and at the rear of it, concealed so that you can't actually see them however. Should cracks appear in those area and/or a substance start to drip out of those area down on the powerhead, a voltage drop to the powerpack(s) will occur which in turn results in weak erratic, and eventually no ignition.

The stator in this condition may provide the necessary voltage to the powerpack when cold, BUT when hot.... it will not!

I'd suggest that you remove the flywheel and visually inspect the stator for defects. Have yourself set up so that you can check the spark properly when this condition presents itself. Remember to torque the flywheel nut to 105 foot pounds when installing the nut.

I know that you said that you have spark BUT is it the proper spark when HOT?

With the spark plugs removed, the spark, at all times, should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real SNAP! Anything less is trouble.

No tester..... see the following.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
thank you i will start there a

thank you i will start there and check for cracks in it as well thank you also for telling me how to make a spark checker so give me a few days or so and i will tell you the out come.
 
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