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110 hp Johnson

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I am new at this!! I bought this motor used and I am planning on rebuilding the lower leg ( I found water in the oil when I was winterizing). Is there a trick to removing the shift shaft from the linkage? Do I have to remove the carbs? I believe the motor is a 88. Mod BJ110TLCCA. Help with this would be greatly appreciated and any tips on the rebuild of the lower leg would be great too
Thanks
 
Under the carbs in the front (right in the dam middle) is where the shift shaft comes up and attaches to the linkage. There is a single bolt and with a socket, an extension and an universal you can get to the bolt. LOL You have to swear a bit and hold your mouth the right way too...... One you do it , it will be easier.

You should probably have a manual on hand to change the lower seals and I know they sell them here on this website. While you are in the Lower unit you should also do the impellar.
 
Maybe just remove the hitch pin on the starboard side and push in on the bellcrank.-------------------Just needle nose pliers required to do that, to release shift rod.
 
I saw that the connection was right in the dam middle!! I had a hard time even getting a light to shine on it. I took off a plate under it but that still does not get me close to the linkage. There is a split bracket that holds the pin that slides through the shift rod and a bolt that squeezes that together. Is that the bolt you are talkng about? Is it easier to reach that bolt if the transmission is in forward or reverse?
Thanks again
 
And that was one of the reasons for doing this. I have no idea if the impellar was changed and with water in the gear oil I thought I should do it all. Little did I know it would be this much fun!!!!!
 
Disconnecting the shift rod is quite simple-------------Remove the hitch pin ------then push bell crank to the port side and the shift rod is released.--------------DO NOT TURN the shift rod as that affects the adjustment.
 
(Checking Gearcase For Leaks)
(J.Reeves)
Remove the large slotted drain/fill screw from the bottom of the gearcase and also the identical looking screw that will be located up near the cavitation plate in order to drain the gearlube.

After all of the lubricant has drained, install one of the slotted screws, whichever your preference might be.

Apply 7 to 12 pounds of air pressure to the open screw hole. Use a piece of rubber fuel line or something to create a tight air hose fit if you do not have a proper fitting.

If a leak exists, that pressure should allow you to locate the leak by sound and/or sight.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
(Gearcase leak check)
Let it drain well then replace lower screw...then if you don't mind getting a little intimate with your motor, pressurize the upper slotted screw hole with your mouth, your ears will be close to any leak. Fastest way I found, but thats just me...LOL Good luck!
You might find you like your engine more than you thought. jk :D Haaa
 
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