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‘56 30hp rebuild

J

Jonathan P

New member
Thought I had issues with the drive shaft and bushing at the top of the lower unit because they were burred. After getting the bushing out, it wasn’t as bad as first thought. The drive shaft is only a thousandths smaller where burred. After taking the burrs out, I’ll probably be down to two thousandths which I would think would be acceptable. There was water (salt) in the gear case oil which member timguy suggested may have caused the burring. The gear case parts are in great shape so putting new seals in should fix the problem. Working on getting out the shift rod bushing. Will try tapping it first to draw it out. Really don’t want to drill it out if I don’t have too. I’m new so apologies for starting my first thread in the “fuel/oil mix ratio” forum.
 
You didn't ask a question, but without seeing it, the DS bushing sounds ok. As for the shift rod bushing, tap just a few threads with a 5/16 NC tap, as you suggested. No need to "draw it out". Just screw a bolt into the tapped threads and knock it out from the opposite end. If you don't go too far with the tap, you can re-use the bushing.
 
Great way to go, Gator. I also use a rod that can barely fit through the hole from the bottom, yet cannot pass into the opening of the shift rod busing so I tap it right out. When you install the new o-ring under that bushing, be sure not to "smash" it down too hard. I install the shift shaft.......after its cleaned up from any burrs, etc.......just so its sticking up past the bushing. Be sure to lube it too. Then tap down the bushing with a deep socket (with shift rod in place), until you get slight resistance on the shift rod. This means that the o-ring is "sandwiched" in position and supplying slight friction as well as excellent sealing on that fat o-ring.
 
Good advice on the bushing depth. However​ there was a mid-year change in '56 30hp motors. So some will have a different bushing and a gasket above it. With that kind, you pound the bushing down against the gasket.
 
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