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2002 BF225A chokes over 4000 rpm after several hrs of running

Hutch102

New member
OK I just purchased a boat with a low hrs 550 actually honda Bf225A that has been sitting for about 8 years. I did a full service:
compression check all cylinders and they are close to like 200.
Lower unit oil
impeller
oil change, new filter
thermostats changed
new plugs
new low pressure fuel filter/bowl and gasket
new high pressure fuel filter/ gasket
Had the injectors pulled and tested
Had a new fuel pump and VST tank cleaned.
Low pressure pump was tested
new 02 sensor
New racor setup the whole thing
New fuel bulb
new fuel line
new tank breather
cleaned that valve with the screen at the top by the intake.

The motor is not throwing any codes
So motor runs at low speeds fine. And will rev to 5.5 - 6k when first running initally and for several hrs.

After about 4 hrs of running the motor will not push past 4 rpm. the further I push the throttle the worse it gets. Idles fine runs at lower rpms fine. It tries to go and will sporadically have burst of power but more often is choking or cutting out. I can rev it in neutral to over 5K no problem. under load it is not working.

here is what AI has been saying. I have feed it alot of information and I am hoping someone can help me diagnose this problem... It's difficult to have a shop check this because it take so long for it to show up...
Maybe someone has experienced this also?
Any help would be appreciated.



Since the low-pressure bowl is clear, all external/internal filters are new OEM, and the high-pressure fuel pump itself is brand new OEM, we've eliminated standard blockages and dead pumps.

However, the fact that it happens only after 3 to 4 hours of heat soak—and gets progressively worse the more throttle you apply—points right back to a severe fuel pressure collapse under sustained thermal load. Even with a brand-new pump, a few specific pressure-control and electrical breakdown points can cause this exact failure:

1.Test High-Pressure Fuel Rail Pressure Under Load (Hot):Estimated time: 20 mins.
Even a new pump can suffer if supply voltage sags or if heat causes internal pressure regulation failure. You need to verify if the fuel rail pressure holds steady at 43–50 PSI or if it plummets when the engine starts choking at 4000 RPM after 3+ hours.
Verification: Rig a temporary mechanical fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the rail and run a line where it can be monitored from the helm under way.
2.Inspect VST Cooler / Water Cooling Passages to VST:Estimated time: 15 mins.
The VST housing on the BF225 is jacketed and cooled by engine raw water to prevent the fuel inside from boiling or vaporizing during long runs. If the cooling water line feeding the VST jacket is partially restricted by salt or debris, the tank will heat-soak over several hours, causing the fuel inside to micro-boil and choke the system.
Verification: Feel the VST housing immediately after the 4-hour failure occurs—it should be warm, but if it is scorching hot to the touch, raw water cooling to the tank has failed.
3.Check PGM-FI Main Relay Thermal Breakdown:Estimated time: 15 mins.
The PGM-FI main relay supplies power to the fuel pumps and injectors. When these relays age, internal solder joints can micro-crack or warp under 3+ hours of under-cowl heat soak, introducing high resistance that drops voltage to the high-pressure pump under heavy demand.
Verification: Feel the PGM-FI relay housing when the fault occurs, or swap it with a known good relay to see if the symptom clears.
 
Did you drain the boat fuel tank and clean it out? I’m thinking a fuel tank sitting around that many years could have contamination.

Do you have an external water fuel separator filter- check that and see if the filter is clean. Drain the filter into a clear container and also cut the filter open to see if any debris.

I would run it on a clean portable tank with a good load of sea foam in premium fuel and see how that goes. The sea foam will clean varnish off the injectors and valves, run it under load of course.
 
I like what NSDON suggests. Usually do.

Expanding that discussion:

Fuel tank pick-up tubes have screens at the bottom because that's where they "suck up" the gas. From the bottom of the tank. If there are "floaties" in the tank, they would not likely get near the tube's intake screen/filter until the fuel level has dropped significantly. Say, after running for hours as you describe.

The other scenario these symptoms favor might be electronic component "heat soak" as described in your post about the PGM-FI main relay "overheating".

But, heat soak could, conceiveably, also cause.other electronic components to act erratically such as ...

Ignition coils
Fuel injectors
Map sensor
TPS
AIr by pass valve
HP Fuel pump
ECU.
The list is long and I probably missed something.

Less likely but even the alteenator or O2 sensor might be suspect.

Of course, if the problem is electrical, finding the offending component can be very difficult so starting with the fuel tank contamination theory makes the most sense. At least to me.

Looking forward to seeing what you uncover.

Good luck.
 
I should’ve include the tank detail on the initial post. The Boat had about 50 gallons of gas in it. The good thing is they had used fuel stabilizer so while the gas was old and a slight bit discolored in general, there was no varnish or fuel that had turned to gunk in in general the tank looks very clean through the inspection port. I drained all that fuel and then I dumped 10 gallons of fresh gas in and siphon it out to rinse the tank.
 
So I’m on the third cycle trying to figure this out each time I’ve replaced all the filters, including the Recor water separator the low pressure in the high-pressure fuel filters and three times I’ve had the same phenomenon. Boat runs great initially then as the motor gets hot or gets run hard like in big swell, managing the boat or just running it higher speeds this choking stuttering phenomenon occurs.
 
Again, do what you need to do to convert to run it on a portable tank set up. The results will help point you in the right direction.

Your recent comment about the issue occuring in a "big swell" still makes me suspicious that it could be fuel tank related.

I know that some auto/truck fuel tanks are manufactured with a flexible "liner" that causes problems when it starts breaking down inside the tank.

The loose liner can "suck up" against the fuel pick-up tube inlet and produce symptoms like you describe.

Admittedly, I don't know specifically about this being true with any boat tanks. But running on a portable tank set-up that you can always keep as a reserve or even as an emergency supply would definitely eliminate doubt about something like that happening here.

Good luck.
 
Did you check your filters, the old ones and the new ones?

Cloudy fuel was likely really bad fuel. Run a portable tank with sea foam for at least 1 tank or 2 at say 3000 rpm or higher, see if that improves anything.
 
Not sure if this relates, but my Honda 60 did the exact same thing. Ran fine, but wouldn’t go beyond 4K rpm’s. It ended up being the low pressure fuel pump. Ethanol fuel will destroy the diaphragm if left to sit. I tested it and it appeared to be fine.

Has the oil level increased when checked or does the oil smell like fuel?
 
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Good points David. He did initially say that the low pressure fuel pump was tested.

Was your pump passing fuel into the oil? Is that how you figured out what was happening with your engine?
 
When I inspected the boat, the tank was the first thing I checked, the fuel was honey colored but perfectly clear. I siphoned it all out through the pick up into white buckets and it was clear. no dirt at all. This was after i towed it home so it sloshed for an hour down the highway. I am still going to check the tank, and my filters have looked perfect no discolor or debris in the pleats. I am still going to pick up an aux tank for testing but I have my doubts... especially with a 10 micron racor as the first filter in the boat.
 
Not sure if this relates, but my Honda 60 did the exact same thing. Ran fine, but wouldn’t go beyond 4K rpm’s. It ended up being the low pressure fuel pump. Ethanol fuel will destroy the diaphragm if left to sit. I tested it and it appeared to be fine.

Has the oil level increased when checked or does the oil smell like fuel?
yes I saw this on an AI session and I checked with the mechanic. He did not rebuild or disassemble just check that it was creating pressure. its been flagged a couple times in searches that it could be an issue... I checked the oil to make sure it was still full and it was and still perfectly clear.. I did not check it for fuel smell though... It looked like the correct consistency oil.. I will check that too... I was looking for parts for that low pressure pump and apparently it is not rebuildable just replacable... typical honda... I also notice the flaps inside the intake are seazed open. From all my checks this would not effect wide open throttle just low end torque...
 
I cleaned the screen on this part too.
 

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Good points David. He did initially say that the low pressure fuel pump was tested.

Was your pump passing fuel into the oil? Is that how you figured out what was happening with your engine?
Yes. The oil level visibly looked ok, but the level had increased slightly and it had a fuel smell to it. That was the tell tale for me. I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and it has been fine since
 
Yeah, those pumps, the plunger being cam driven, can leak gas past the plunger piston even when the diaphragm itself is still ok. I've seen a few do that on the twins I've worked on.
 
Hutch,
I believe that part is the idle electronic air control valve. Item.14 in the link.

Often, when the filter screen for that is dirty or the valve itself is pretty gunked up, it can indicate that the throttle body (item 3) is dirty too and might need cleaning.

It's best to take it off because that's the only way to clean the backside of the throttle blade. You can't really tell how dirty it is without taking it off. Not saying that's what's causing your issue, just saying.

If you do decide to clean it, handle with care. Use Throttle Body Cleaner spray ONLY and don't rub or scrub it. The cleaner spray will usually do the job by itself but you can use a SOFT toothbrush or a small, trimmed paint brush to help get a stubborn spot.

They don't like to be dropped and can be damaged if opened all the way and then allowed to SNAP shut.

 
Ok so pulled the sending units I have two for some reason one in back on in front both are clean and there is no obstruction around pick ups. The tank has some macro dirt in it but any and all of this would never get past the racor
 

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Any chance you have an exhaust leak inside the cowling? Is it even worth considering?
Are you still going to run it on a portable tank with a good load of sea foam? Honey coloured gas is likely not good gas.
Hutch,
I believe that part is the idle electronic air control valve. Item.14 in the link.

Often, when the filter screen for that is dirty or the valve itself is pretty gunked up, it can indicate that the throttle body (item 3) is dirty too and might need cleaning.

It's best to take it off because that's the only way to clean the backside of the throttle blade. You can't really tell how dirty it is without taking it off. Not saying that's what's causing your issue, just saying.

If you do decide to clean it, handle with care. Use Throttle Body Cleaner spray ONLY and don't rub or scrub it. The cleaner spray will usually do the job by itself but you can use a SOFT toothbrush or a small, trimmed paint brush to help get a stubborn spot.

They don't like to be dropped and can be damaged if opened all the way and then allowed to SNAP shut.

Agreed thats it. It wasn't particularly dirty, oil on the screen which a quick blast with cleaner and it was gone..
 
Yes. The oil level visibly looked ok, but the level had increased slightly and it had a fuel smell to it. That was the tell tale for me. I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and it has been fine since
oil looks normal and smells like oil no real gas smell from the oil... I am wondering and thinking this low pressure pump may be the culprit.. New ones are pricey, 280 bucks.... cheaper than a motor I guess... Anyone had one of these apart, can I just disassemble and look inside?
 
I don't think those pumps are made to be taken apart. If it's still good, (you said it was "tested") and you open it up, it might ruin it. But your call.
 
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