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10 Amp fuse blows on my BF30

R

RayboyW1

New member
While operating the motor, the 10A fuse on the front of the engine blew. The model is BF30 with remote control, electric start, and no power tilt/trim. The motor has low hours and does not see salt water. It has been running fine until now.
 
Hi,
I don't have the wiring diagram for your outboard but the parts page shows two 15 amp fuses for the charging system and two 10 amp fuses in the remote control wire harness. That says that the 10 amp fuse that's blowing, may be for ignitiin/starting or possibly the choke. I don't know.

If those two things work without causing the fuse to blow, I'm pretty much at a loss as to what to suggest without the wiring schematics for reference.

Looking for places that the wire harness turns sharply or is routed through a metal panel or bulkhead might reveal a place that could cause a short to ground and is always worth a quick look.

The trouble with remote controls in aluminum hulls is that the wiring from the outboard to the remote or console is run under the rail and hidden from view. There are many places along that route that sharp metal edges or protruding screws can puncture or cut the wire insulation. It can make finding a cause for a fuse continually popping difficult.

Sorry I don't have better information to offer for this.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Hi,
I don't have the wiring diagram for your outboard but the parts page shows two 15 amp fuses for the charging system and two 10 amp fuses in the remote control wire harness. That says that the 10 amp fuse that's blowing, may be for ignitiin/starting or possibly the choke. I don't know.

If those two things work without causing the fuse to blow, I'm pretty much at a loss as to what to suggest without the wiring schematics for reference.

Looking for places that the wire harness turns sharply or is routed through a metal panel or bulkhead might reveal a place that could cause a short to ground and is always worth a quick look.

The trouble with remote controls in aluminum hulls is that the wiring from the outboard to the remote or console is run under the rail and hidden from view. There are many places along that route that sharp metal edges or protruding screws can puncture or cut the wire insulation. It can make finding a cause for a fuse continually popping difficult.

Sorry I don't have better information to offer for this.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Hello jgmo'
Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure that the 10A fuse is for the Ignition/starting as you suggest, but I haven't been successful in finding a wiring diagram either. I did isolate the wire that goes from the starter switch to the solenoid (Blk/Wht), jumped it to the battery, and the engine starts. I also put a meter on the blown fuse socket with the ignition switch off, and it went immediately up to 14+ amps and blew the 10A fuse (inline with the testing meter). Also, neither the oil nor the temp light by the throttle illuminate at all when the key is on. I'm not sure what this all means, but I agree with you that there's a short somewhere. Either in the harness, a connector, or another component (??). Thanks again for your input. I guess I'll just keep poking around. I hate to start throwing parts at it but it may come down to that. The local Honda Marine dealer is notoriously bad, so I'm trying to avoid that route if possible.
 
Hi,
Yes, finding a blown fuse problem can be tough, for sure.

But the no warning lights in the remote thing could be a big clue.
We're those working OK before this started happening?
 
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