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Up-tune 6.2L from 300 HP to 350 HP

smserv

New member
Buying a new Sea Ray Boat. Standard engine is a Mercruiser 6.2L @ 300 HP. There is a very expensive option to go to 350 HP using the same engine which I would like to do due to boat weight and passenger capacity but the price is pretty extreme. There are no differences in the specs and I am told by Mercruiser the only difference is the ECM. They get 50 more HP with a different ECM? I find that hard to believe having worked on a lot of engines in my time, but that's what they tell me and that's what I have read is possible. Someone in another forum said the props are changed also. Don't know if that is true or if that would help.
So I am asking if anyone has knowledge of this topic. Is it only an ECM that does the job? If it's only the ECM, then can an ECM for the 350 HP be slapped on to a 300 HP engine without a problem and get 50 more HP? Is something else required? Mercruiser was not much additional help.
 
This is just me but I doubt you'll save any money trying to "roll your own" on the ECU up-tune. You'll find the ECU that you want to "slap on" costs a crap ton of money.
 
Before you throw down on any boat you should be sea trialing the heck out of it. Do side by side comparison of both engines in same boat and decide if it's worth the extra.
Honestly, as Jeff says, the thing that will make a difference is engine size. Bigger engine, more power. Unless this SeaRay is under 25 feet, you will want either turbodiesel or big block power. A 2019 25 footer needs a lot more oomph than a 1989 25 footer just cz the build em fatter now than they used to.
 
Jeff is correct!
Look closely at the RPM where the HP ratings are taken, and then also look closely at the Torque rating that corresponds to a given RPM.
 
The 'extra 50 HP' may come from a different tune.....but they don't tell you the rest of the story - At what RPM which rating is achieved.

Personally, I'd just go for the 8.2L and not mess with the 6.2L.....there is no replacement for displacement when it comes to generating torque for a marine application..
 
Hp is a function of torque x RPM. Torque is a function of CID displacement,( since torque is related to psi chamber pressure x piston top area ( CID). Much of the HP gain that you get from an ECM upgrade comes from spinning the engine faster. Torque is what turns the prop. Or as they say on "the street"....There's " No replacement for displacement"..... although a big a** blower on top of the engine comes in a close second. :) :)
 
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So does nitrous! But, let's get serious here, if you want a bunch more performance you'll need a bunch more motor.

Jeff
 
Buying a new Sea Ray Boat. Standard engine is a Mercruiser 6.2L @ 300 HP. There is a very expensive option to go to 350 HP using the same engine which I would like to do due to boat weight and passenger capacity but the price is pretty extreme. There are no differences in the specs and I am told by Mercruiser the only difference is the ECM. They get 50 more HP with a different ECM? I find that hard to believe having worked on a lot of engines in my time, but that's what they tell me and that's what I have read is possible. Someone in another forum said the props are changed also. Don't know if that is true or if that would help.
So I am asking if anyone has knowledge of this topic. Is it only an ECM that does the job? If it's only the ECM, then can an ECM for the 350 HP be slapped on to a 300 HP engine without a problem and get 50 more HP? Is something else required? Mercruiser was not much additional help.

Yes possible I had it done by Simon Motorsports. Not sure he still does this modification. Mercury was starting to crack down on these aftermarket tuners. On my Glaston 205 top speed before flash was 52.5 mph. After flash gained 7.1 mph. Top speed now 59.6 mph. All recorded on gps. On new engines very easy to restrict power via software. New engines have a drive by wire throttle body. I suspect on the 300hp version you are only getting 85% throttle but on the 350 hp you get 100%. Both motors are the same with tune being the only difference…. Remember computer controls the throttle body and you are only requesting and it give you what has been factory programmed.
 
Yes possible I had it done by Simon Motorsports. Not sure he still does this modification. Mercury was starting to crack down on these aftermarket tuners. On my Glaston 205 top speed before flash was 52.5 mph. After flash gained 7.1 mph. Top speed now 59.6 mph. All recorded on gps. On new engines very easy to restrict power via software. New engines have a drive by wire throttle body. I suspect on the 300hp version you are only getting 85% throttle but on the 350 hp you get 100%. Both motors are the same with tune being the only difference…. Remember computer controls the throttle body and you are only requesting and it give you what has been factory programmed.
Did you change the prop too? I have the glastron 205 with 300 as well. What rpm are you hitting now at 59.6.
 
I did go one pitch up but can’t remember RPM. It was not hitting the rev limiter though.
I and most now understand a lot more about the "Magic" of properly tuned software and the gains that can be achieved by a good tuner compared to 2019.

What I see here is a conflict and lack of proper info/specifications in your post.

1. You said you gained 7.1 MPH with a flash, Do you have any idea what that flash changed?

2. You did not include the details in your prior post about changing prop pitch. Then you include it in your most recent post but with NO DETAILS.
What prop was it and what did you change it to?
What rpm were you running at before pitch change and what rpm after pitch change?

If you simply went from lets say a 19 pitch to a 21 pitch you would gain apprx 300 RPM. if you went to a 23 pitch from 19 that could be 600 rpm gain. So the specifics of what the flash and prop change are, are critical information.

Maybe list all the changes more specifically which then would show why the improvement.

It is very easy to gain 5+ MPH with a prop change on certain boat hull types. The prop may cost 1-2 thousand dollars but will give you the same result of higher top speed.

Many of my friends like/have Checkmates. Most (9 of them have checkmates -Families -and have height restrictions on the lake they are on due to a low bridge) and all have 18-19 ish ft with 350 stock mercruiser (260/270 hp) Carburetors.
Average speed is around 55-60 mph. With a very expensive aftermarket SS prop, one of them was able to achieve 65-67 MPH on GPS.
 
I and most now understand a lot more about the "Magic" of properly tuned software and the gains that can be achieved by a good tuner compared to 2019.

What I see here is a conflict and lack of proper info/specifications in your post.

1. You said you gained 7.1 MPH with a flash, Do you have any idea what that flash changed?

2. You did not include the details in your prior post about changing prop pitch. Then you include it in your most recent post but with NO DETAILS.
What prop was it and what did you change it to?
What rpm were you running at before pitch change and what rpm after pitch change?

If you simply went from lets say a 19 pitch to a 21 pitch you would gain apprx 300 RPM. if you went to a 23 pitch from 19 that could be 600 rpm gain. So the specifics of what the flash and prop change are, are critical information.

Maybe list all the changes more specifically which then would show why the improvement.

It is very easy to gain 5+ MPH with a prop change on certain boat hull types. The prop may cost 1-2 thousand dollars but will give you the same result of higher top speed.

Many of my friends like/have Checkmates. Most (9 of them have checkmates -Families -and have height restrictions on the lake they are on due to a low bridge) and all have 18-19 ish ft with 350 stock mercruiser (260/270 hp) Carburetors.
Average speed is around 55-60 mph. With a very expensive aftermarket SS prop, one of them was able to achieve 65-67 MPH on GPS.
I wanted to clarify my experience with my 2018 Glastron 205 running the 6.2L MerCruiser.

Originally, the boat had the 300 hp setup and would top out at around 54 mph on GPS. Before doing anything with the engine, I changed the prop from a 19 pitch to a 21 pitch. As expected, the RPM dropped by roughly 300 RPM, but the top speed did not increase at all—it stayed right around 54 mph. At that point, it was clear the engine didn’t have enough power to pull the additional pitch any faster.

After that, I upgraded to the 350 hp tune. For those not familiar, the 6.2L 300 hp and 350 hp are essentially the same engine mechanically, with the difference being in the ECU calibration. Rather than replacing the ECU with a factory 350 unit (which is expensive), I had mine flashed to the 350 hp file.

At the time, tuners had access to the base 350 hp ECU software and could overwrite the 300 hp ECU using a cable and laptop setup (mine was done using a Simon’s cable and a laptop to load the new file). From what I understand, Mercury later cracked down on this since it was impacting their pricing structure, so I’m not sure how available that option is anymore.

As for what actually changes between the 300 and 350 tunes, it’s not fully published, but since both engines run on 87 octane and share the same hardware, it’s likely a combination of:

  • Throttle mapping (drive-by-wire control)
  • Torque management limits
  • Fuel/air calibration under load

After the flash, I went back out under similar conditions and saw 59.6 mph on GPS, compared to the previous ~54 mph.

Based on that sequence:

  • The prop change alone did not increase speed
  • The RPM drop confirmed the engine was already power-limited
  • The only change that resulted in a measurable speed gain was the additional power from the 350 tune

So in my case, the speed increase wasn’t from the prop—it came after adding power.
 
it was a direct response to the original question. I followed up for more specifics.

I DID READ THE WHOLE THREAD and was aware its an older one. Unlike others.........

Settle down- I wasn't poking you the way you do it to me and my comment was to the previous post, not yours.
 
So everyone knows why I did such a thorough test—it was to make sure I was actually getting what I paid for and not being sold a placebo from Simon’s. At the time, the flash cost around $1,850, which included the tune and the cable to connect to my laptop. A full upgrade through Mercury to a higher-horsepower motor would have cost significantly more, so I wanted to confirm the flash actually delivered real gains. That’s why I tested it before and after—to ensure I was truly getting the 350 hp tune.

It’s a great upgrade for $1,850, especially compared to paying $5,000 or more for an ECU and engine upgrade that ultimately gives you the same engine with a higher-output tune.

One more thing to add—if someone really wanted to make the setup look legitimate, they could even order the 350 hp badge from their Mercury dealer (it’s only about $30) to replace the 300 hp marking once the motor is flashed. Other than the serial number, it’s essentially a 6.2L 350 hp setup.

For educational purposes, this is exactly why Mercury has gone after aftermarket tuners who flash these motors. If you look across various Mercury engines, you’ll notice many are mechanically identical, with the same specifications, yet sold at different horsepower levels. In many cases, the primary difference comes down to software.

It’s no different than what Cummins does with the 6.7 diesel—same engine platform, but different software can produce significantly different power and torque outputs. In some cases, you can even go to a dealer and have the engine flashed for more horsepower; however, if it’s outside the recommended range for your setup, it typically voids the warranty.

That’s the beauty of modern electronically controlled engines.
 
So everyone knows why I did such a thorough test—it was to make sure I was actually getting what I paid for and not being sold a placebo from Simon’s. At the time, the flash cost around $1,850, which included the tune and the cable to connect to my laptop. A full upgrade through Mercury to a higher-horsepower motor would have cost significantly more, so I wanted to confirm the flash actually delivered real gains. That’s why I tested it before and after—to ensure I was truly getting the 350 hp tune.

It’s a great upgrade for $1,850, especially compared to paying $5,000 or more for an ECU and engine upgrade that ultimately gives you the same engine with a higher-output tune.

One more thing to add—if someone really wanted to make the setup look legitimate, they could even order the 350 hp badge from their Mercury dealer (it’s only about $30) to replace the 300 hp marking once the motor is flashed. Other than the serial number, it’s essentially a 6.2L 350 hp setup.

For educational purposes, this is exactly why Mercury has gone after aftermarket tuners who flash these motors. If you look across various Mercury engines, you’ll notice many are mechanically identical, with the same specifications, yet sold at different horsepower levels. In many cases, the primary difference comes down to software.

It’s no different than what Cummins does with the 6.7 diesel—same engine platform, but different software can produce significantly different power and torque outputs. In some cases, you can even go to a dealer and have the engine flashed for more horsepower; however, if it’s outside the recommended range for your setup, it typically voids the warranty.

That’s the beauty of modern electronically controlled engines.
Yes, I agree, I have witnessed some dyno tuning on some current LS gm builds and it is amazing what a few excel data cell changes can make in power gains. The OEM's simply dont want the the rest of us to access the potential that exists and they already know all about the potential. I am sure there is even more that could be extracted, BUT if your running an Alpha drive It has limitations of about 300 HP and the associated torque which I believe with a HD gear set can handle 345-ish LB/FT) . Where as the Bravo or inboard engines with transmissions can easily handle 500 HP so that would or could be the reason Merc doesnt want it done for the average boat owner because they will end up blowing up the Alpha outdrive. There may be a reason for that decision.
 
One last follow up,

Back in the 80's Merc decided to put 454 Big Blocks in boats with Alpha drives. A standard Merc 454 I believe is 325 HP and the torque is up there I think near 400 lb/ft. It became apparent very quickly that the Upper gears were breaking. Prior to this the 454 was used in Inboards with transmissions and boats with TRS drives also with transmissions. The TRS is a monster drive with very big Straight cut gears designed for high torque, no shifting in the drive it is done in the transmission. Then around '88/'89 I believe the Bravo Drive was introduced. This was designed for higher power and torque and had shifting capability in the drive. So as I said above, The possible reason that merc doesnt want the 350 hp upgrade done by independent shops may be due to the possible breakage of the upper gear case for Alpha drives, I wonder if as you said you could order the ECM with the software upgrade directly and I wonder if it is "Detuned" a bit if it is specified for a Alpha dive.
 
So everyone knows why I did such a thorough test—it was to make sure I was actually getting what I paid for and not being sold a placebo from Simon’s. At the time, the flash cost around $1,850, which included the tune and the cable to connect to my laptop. A full upgrade through Mercury to a higher-horsepower motor would have cost significantly more, so I wanted to confirm the flash actually delivered real gains. That’s why I tested it before and after—to ensure I was truly getting the 350 hp tune.

It’s a great upgrade for $1,850, especially compared to paying $5,000 or more for an ECU and engine upgrade that ultimately gives you the same engine with a higher-output tune.

One more thing to add—if someone really wanted to make the setup look legitimate, they could even order the 350 hp badge from their Mercury dealer (it’s only about $30) to replace the 300 hp marking once the motor is flashed. Other than the serial number, it’s essentially a 6.2L 350 hp setup.

For educational purposes, this is exactly why Mercury has gone after aftermarket tuners who flash these motors. If you look across various Mercury engines, you’ll notice many are mechanically identical, with the same specifications, yet sold at different horsepower levels. In many cases, the primary difference comes down to software.

It’s no different than what Cummins does with the 6.7 diesel—same engine platform, but different software can produce significantly different power and torque outputs. In some cases, you can even go to a dealer and have the engine flashed for more horsepower; however, if it’s outside the recommended range for your setup, it typically voids the warranty.

That’s the beauty of modern electronically controlled engines.
Let me ask this- how did the company that wrote the new program test it on engines- on a dyno, on the water, only virtually?

Now, think about it from the manufacturer's end- THEY were required to produce an engine that hits the emissions numbers, the aftermarket programmer doesn't give a rat's butt about that. The manufacturers also provide their warranty and the programmers don't give a rat's butt about that, either.

Imagine you make engines that meet emissions specs and someone reprograms it with fuel delivery that's too lean, resulting in egine failures. Who's responsible? Do you need to sign a waiver or does the programmer include a waiver in their documents that states "use this at your own risk- not responsible for engine damage or voided warranties?

As a manufacturer, I would never want to cover the damage and would definitely include language in all manuals and documents stating that ANY modifications that aren't on a list that has been approved by them will void the warranty.

I'm definitely on the side of 'right to repair', but only if OEM-type parts are used during the warranty period. Also, I think it should be allowed that manufarcturers should be abe to state that certain aftermarket parts ARE NOT approved during the warranty period.

Scamming a manufacturer and/or dealer for warranty coverage is BS. I workewd on a jet boat that scattered because the boat owner cut the wire to the warning buzzer because he didn't like the constant noise. Well, that warning was from the switch in the 2 stroke oil bottle that was attached to the engine. Well, it was attached until the engine blew up. Literally. Not with a big ball of flames, but it blew a hole in the block, a lot of parts became detached from the engine and I found a lot of the needle bearings from various parts in the oil sprayed around the engne compartment.

This should have voided the warranty, but that a-hole called Mercury and bitched so loud and hard that they bent over and ate 100% of the parts cost, which WE, as the dealer, should have been able to charge. They didn't eat the labor, however. The boat owner complained and I told him that HE caused the problem and he really shouldn't expect free ANYTHING and that he had deprived us as the servicer of any profit from the engine replacement.

When people who don't have a clue work on just about anything, it goes badly. Sometimes, fatally. I also work in audio/video/car audio & security and over the last 50+ years, I have seen a lot of equipment that came in for service with damage caused by someone "who knows about this stuff". No, they didn't. They didn't even know enough to be dangerous, as the saying goes.

Again, the tuner doesn't givea rat's butt about emissions- the manufacturer has to because they can be fined heavily if their products fail to meet emissions requirements. These aren't optional and as we all know from car/truck performance, the emissions crap kills performance and has since they started installing it.
 
Let me ask this- how did the company that wrote the new program test it on engines- on a dyno, on the water, only virtually?

Now, think about it from the manufacturer's end- THEY were required to produce an engine that hits the emissions numbers, the aftermarket programmer doesn't give a rat's butt about that. The manufacturers also provide their warranty and the programmers don't give a rat's butt about that, either.

Imagine you make engines that meet emissions specs and someone reprograms it with fuel delivery that's too lean, resulting in egine failures. Who's responsible? Do you need to sign a waiver or does the programmer include a waiver in their documents that states "use this at your own risk- not responsible for engine damage or voided warranties?

As a manufacturer, I would never want to cover the damage and would definitely include language in all manuals and documents stating that ANY modifications that aren't on a list that has been approved by them will void the warranty.

I'm definitely on the side of 'right to repair', but only if OEM-type parts are used during the warranty period. Also, I think it should be allowed that manufarcturers should be abe to state that certain aftermarket parts ARE NOT approved during the warranty period.

Scamming a manufacturer and/or dealer for warranty coverage is BS. I workewd on a jet boat that scattered because the boat owner cut the wire to the warning buzzer because he didn't like the constant noise. Well, that warning was from the switch in the 2 stroke oil bottle that was attached to the engine. Well, it was attached until the engine blew up. Literally. Not with a big ball of flames, but it blew a hole in the block, a lot of parts became detached from the engine and I found a lot of the needle bearings from various parts in the oil sprayed around the engne compartment.

This should have voided the warranty, but that a-hole called Mercury and bitched so loud and hard that they bent over and ate 100% of the parts cost, which WE, as the dealer, should have been able to charge. They didn't eat the labor, however. The boat owner complained and I told him that HE caused the problem and he really shouldn't expect free ANYTHING and that he had deprived us as the servicer of any profit from the engine replacement.

When people who don't have a clue work on just about anything, it goes badly. Sometimes, fatally. I also work in audio/video/car audio & security and over the last 50+ years, I have seen a lot of equipment that came in for service with damage caused by someone "who knows about this stuff". No, they didn't. They didn't even know enough to be dangerous, as the saying goes.

Again, the tuner doesn't givea rat's butt about emissions- the manufacturer has to because they can be fined heavily if their products fail to meet emissions requirements. These aren't optional and as we all know from car/truck performance, the emissions crap kills performance and has since they started installing it.
You’re making some fair points about liability, emissions compliance, and people expecting warranty coverage after self-inflicted damage. That said, not every aftermarket tuner is reckless, and not every owner modifying equipment is clueless. There’s room for both responsible aftermarket innovation and manufacturer accountability.
 
You’re making some fair points about liability, emissions compliance, and people expecting warranty coverage after self-inflicted damage. That said, not every aftermarket tuner is reckless, and not every owner modifying equipment is clueless. There’s room for both responsible aftermarket innovation and manufacturer accountability.
Good response!! I was trying to point out the why Merc may have wanted to curb the indy from being able to do the changes for mechanical failure reasons long known when higher power/torque is added to limited ability Alpha drives.

You say "Not All". Well, you respond to enough people just on this one forum long enough and you would be surprised just how many fall into the "Not AT All" and Clueless" category...lol
 
You say "Not All". Well, you respond to enough people just on this one forum long enough and you would be surprised just how many fall into the "Not AT All" and Clueless" category...lol
I wasn't assuming the tuners were careless or reckless, I was asking about how they arrived at the changes to the program. OEM tuning involves the same kind of testing as car and truck engines- come up with a basic program to make it run, then test for emissions, in-cylinder gas temperatures, torque/HP, fuel delivery, maximum spark advance to make it run at the correct air:fuel ratio, etc. Then, they go to a body of water for all kinds of testing that includes destruction of the engine & drive. Some manufacturers have their own water (Merc has Lake X, Mastercraft has their own on company property in Tennessee) and others go to local water but having their own removes distractions and assures continuity. If they can't make it fail, it's likely that most boat owners won't either, but there's no reason to assume that someone can't.

My friend who worked at the GM Desert Proving Ground drove cars on their 5 mile track without oil, sometimes without coolant- they drove the cars until they dropped, towed them back to the shop and made the repairs, then went back out after some kind of change was made and that included engines and transmissions. Sometimes, a problem will show up after the boats had been validated and sold, but wasn't expected- hot start issues in places with high ambient temperatures was one examplet they gave- once they corrected the high temp trigger after heat soak, the problem was gone.

All ECM programs have a checksum, to tell the tech using a diagnostic computer/analyser the version of the program- the old program should be saved, in case the engine needs to revert to OEM, since tuning without all of the testing

I joined another boat forum because someone posted their idea of a solution to the warning buzzer that only ran around the first few seconds after startup- "Just cut the wire to the buzzer". This was a new boat and that would have voided the warranty. Since I joined that forum, I learned that a lot of people use the 'parts cannon' when they try to diagnose a problem. There's absolutely no knowledge of the systems on a boat or the chain of events during crank, run, failure modes or anything, they just replace parts until they make the problem go away, or not, and often by replacing several parts in one step. They think they found a definitive answer but they didn't understand that in their group part replacement, they completely eliminated any possibility of certainty in knowing the cause.

The boat owners on that forum would never consider touching their car or truck, regardless of the value but they were confident enough in their abilities that they dove head first into horsing around with a boat that, at the time, sold for over $75K. However, it wasn't just about not wanting to pay the price for service, the problem was that they didn't have an authorized dealer nearby because they used their boats in remote areas. Still, they could have gone to a GM dealer and found a quicker solution and not voided their warranties. Unfortunately, not all of the 'authorized' dealers kept the techs who had been trained by the company and the remaining people didn't have/use the shop manuals, nor did they have a clue of their own- boat dealers are well known for being too cheap to train people because they see the time away from the shop and money paid for travel & lodging as "It costs too much" without considering the positive effects from the training. Coming away from training, making new contacts, learning tricks that make diagnostics much easier and being able to repair boats in one trip to the shop without returns for correcting mistakes, damage to the boat or handling PO'd customers doesn't seem like a cost, to me.

One problem that was caused by COVID- in person training was ended for many brands and without the face to face communication at the time of presentation, a lot was lost at a time when boat technology is increasing at a high rate.
 
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I wasn't assuming the tuners were careless or reckless, I was asking about how they arrived at the changes to the program. OEM tuning involves the same kind of testing as car and truck engines- come up with a basic program to make it run, then test for emissions, in-cylinder gas temperatures, torque/HP, fuel delivery, maximum spark advance to make it run at the correct air:fuel ratio, etc. Then, they go to a body of water for all kinds of testing that includes destruction of the engine & drive. Some manufacturers have their own water (Merc has Lake X, Mastercraft has their own on company property in Tennessee) and others go to local water but having their own removes distractions and assures continuity. If they can't make it fail, it's likely that most boat owners won't either, but there's no reason to assume that someone can't.

My friend who worked at the GM Desert Proving Ground drove cars on their 5 mile track without oil, sometimes without coolant- they drove the cars until they dropped, towed them back to the shop and made the repairs, then went back out after some kind of change was made and that included engines and transmissions. Sometimes, a problem will show up after the boats had been validated and sold, but wasn't expected- hot start issues in places with high ambient temperatures was one examplet they gave- once they corrected the high temp trigger after heat soak, the problem was gone.

All ECM programs have a checksum, to tell the tech using a diagnostic computer/analyser the version of the program- the old program should be saved, in case the engine needs to revert to OEM, since tuning without all of the testing

I joined another boat forum because someone posted their idea of a solution to the warning buzzer that only ran around the first few seconds after startup- "Just cut the wire to the buzzer". This was a new boat and that would have voided the warranty. Since I joined that forum, I learned that a lot of people use the 'parts cannon' when they try to diagnose a problem. There's absolutely no knowledge of the systems on a boat or the chain of events during crank, run, failure modes or anything, they just replace parts until they make the problem go away, or not, and often by replacing several parts in one step. They think they found a definitive answer but they didn't understand that in their group part replacement, they completely eliminated any possibility of certainty in knowing the cause.

The boat owners on that forum would never consider touching their car or truck, regardless of the value but they were confident enough in their abilities that they dove head first into horsing around with a boat that, at the time, sold for over $75K. However, it wasn't just about not wanting to pay the price for service, the problem was that they didn't have an authorized dealer nearby because they used their boats in remote areas. Still, they could have gone to a GM dealer and found a quicker solution and not voided their warranties. Unfortunately, not all of the 'authorized' dealers kept the techs who had been trained by the company and the remaining people didn't have/use the shop manuals, nor did they have a clue of their own- boat dealers are well known for being too cheap to train people because they see the time away from the shop and money paid for travel & lodging as "It costs too much" without considering the positive effects from the training. Coming away from training, making new contacts, learning tricks that make diagnostics much easier and being able to repair boats in one trip to the shop without returns for correcting mistakes, damage to the boat or handling PO'd customers doesn't seem like a cost, to me.

One problem that was caused by COVID- in person training was ended for many brands and without the face to face communication at the time of presentation, a lot was lost at a time when boat technology is increasing at a high rate.
There’s some truth in your post: OEM calibrations go through far more validation than most aftermarket tunes, and blindly swapping parts or disabling alarms is bad practice.

But competence isn’t exclusive to OEM dealers, and cluelessness isn’t exclusive to owners. Some dealers guess. Some independents diagnose properly. Some owners know their systems inside out.

The real separator is process: data, testing, and understanding cause/effect.

Good techs use evidence. Bad techs use the parts cannon. That applies to everyone.
 
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