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Long term storage

S

spine001

New member
I have ac2008 BF50 that I seldom use. How can I store it for the years of no use? I have tried closing the gas valve and running the engine until it stopped assuming it would have used up all fuel. Only to come back to a stalled H/P pump. SOS
 
Hi new member.
Just running an engine out of fuel usually won't get all the fuel out. You need to drain the VST or carb bowls to completely remove fuel.

But even doing that might not get you a sure fire start up at the end of a long term storage as you suggest.
Ever heard the old saying "use it or lose it"? It can be a risky proposition and might require additional steps to truly "pickle" an outboard for years without occasional use.

I'm no expert at storage and I might actually contact someone like an antique car or airplane museum curator for some tips on what they do to preserve running exhibits long term. HEY! You've given me an idea! I've always wanted to meet JAY LENO so I might try to contact him first!

But barring all that, I suggest getting the ""pump gas" out and then running it briefly on ethanol free canned gas that you can buy at lawnmower shops or some VP racing fuel and then drain that.

I would then "fog" through the drain using WD-40 (the WD actually stands for ”Water Displacing") before replacing the drain plug.

Other things you could do to protect the engine would be to remove the valve cover and fog the valve train as well as fogging the cylinders to prevent corrosion of the steel parts like camshaft, rockers, cylinder walls and piston rings.

Hope this gives you some ideas that you can use.

Good luck.
 
I agree that draining the fuel - using the drains, not running 'til it quits, is a good plan.

I am not real clear on the chances of screwing up an oxygen sensor by conventional fogging?
 
Thanks! What confuses me is that some people advice to leave the tank of fuel full with double stabilizer and fogging. And other empty. I May be relevant that I can only get gas with ethanol where I am.
 
The later fuel injected motor often have oxygen sensors as part of the fuel injection system, that are easily (permanently) contaminated. I honestly don't have enough experience there to offer an opinion - just a concern.

The older carbureted motors are frequently "fogged". That's pretty easy. All you need to do with them is to mix up some 50:1 fuel like you would if it were a 2 stroke, and run that through it. Won't hurt a thing, and it covers everything that needs to be covered with a thin layer of fairly high quality oil.

Storing a gas tank that's full never an issue - unless you're talking several years with no stabilizer....
 
Fresh engine and lower unit oil.
Grease all zirks
Top off tilt/trim oil if necessary
Drain water separating filter if equipped
Place a plastic bag over the lower unit preventing insects to set up shop in the prop hub and water intake. Shove a rag in the exhaust port, again for insects
Pull the battery if there is a risk of freezing. Charge battery
 
I have had old cars since 2003, but only stored them for winters. All carbureted. If storing anything with gasoline, like my generator or lawn mower, I use sea foam in the gas as a stabilizer and as a cleaner when I start using them again. Draining carb bowls is needed especially with ethanol gas, our 91 premium is ethanol free. Use a high mix of gas and sea foam and run the engine up to temperature on this mix before shutting it down for long term storage.

Gas can go bad in 6 months if not treated with a stabilizer in my experience, if you are talking several years with no use, I’d drain all fuel tanks and use that fuel in my car. I’ve seen gas in old cars I’ve restored, the tanks are basically sludge and are skunky smelling. The floats are the same as well as the fuel pickups.

After long term storage, I use a high mix of gas and sea foam, it cleans out fuel lines, tanks, carbs, FI, valves, you name it.
 
Found this:
It says "Safe for catalyzed engines" ...
...implying that it won't poison the cat converter or O2 sensors.



It's typically silicone that's the enemy of oxygen sensors as far as I know.
 
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