Ah. I see what you’re saying now. The tilt tube is mounted under the outboard and tilts with the engine. Eliminating the tilt angles altogether. That does seem much simpler in its function, but would certainly require some design creativity.
I wonder if I could use the existing cable and tube...
Yeah the original setup was not working. I built custom linkages and modified the mounting bracket. Everything seems to work fine now. No binding, no extreme angles. I linked to photos of the new setup. Wanted some input from anyone with more experience, in case I was missing something. This is...
Need to make repairs on engine side steering linkages. Odd couplers/connectors where attaches to engine. Also doesn’t seem to fit perfectly when tilting engine (stress on connection) any advice on finding replacement parts or upgrading would be appreciated.
Link to photos engine side
Link to...
Any advice would be appreciated. I think m next move is to replace the top bushing/sleeve parts that seat into the top of the bendex housing.
That whining noise sounds like a worn bushing vibrating in its sleeve/housing.
Link to video/photos
I ended up purchasing a 1966 bell boy with a 60hp. Doing the full restoration now. You can see links In my more recent posts. It’s been good clean fun. Got it started for the first time a couple nights ago
Link to video
This is before any carb adjustment. 1.5 turns out on low speed needles. Smoke seems fine. How’s water coming pump volume? Temps nominal for 4-5 minutes idling? Advice for next steps?
Ended up finding instructions on how to set the advance rod. Set that first, at full throttle the carb, distributer and advance shaft all just max out on their stops.
Then decided to set throttle to idle and line up distributer timing marks. This seemed right.
Manual states to line crank flywheel up with timing mark, which puts no. 1 cylinder at TDC.
Then says to line up magneto pulley with timing mark on the distributer mount bracket. That’s simple enough to do, however, the mount moves because the ignition advance rail is disconnected. But even if...
I’ll be moving onto the lower unit restoration here pretty soon. I plan to replace the impeller regardless of how it looks.
When viewing the exploded parts diagram for the lower unit/water pump, I see there are many “seals” “gaskets” and “O-rings”.
Are there certain parts I should absolutely...
I figured that. But from what I’m reading, if water is in lower unit, it appears as milky coloration.
Another thought was that it’s been long enough since the engine was ran that the water and oil have re-separated.
Ah…I see that comment now. Missed that thread. I can’t tell if you’re annoyed with me or that’s just your style of writing.
Thanks for the help. I’ll keep y’all updated.