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Hydrohoist 6000L Adjustment Questions

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spartacus99

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Hello. I have a Hydrohoist 6000L with 3 long tube type tanks.
I have these installed in my slip at a marina. After replacing the 6 bands, I noticed that the lift is not level. The right side (looking from the dock out, on a front in boat lift) arm is not as high as the left. Also, the rear is a couple of inches lower than I would like (under the engine area of the boat). When the boat is up in the air, it appears to level out as it has for a few years. It's been this way from the owner I purchased it from. The arm on the right is mounted to the dock a hole or 2 lower than the right side (I believe only 1). There must be a reason that the previous owner had it installed this way (we have different boats). My question....What is the easiest way to change this. I also noticed that this kind has a torsion bar on it in both the front and the back. (in 1st photo). What is the purpose of this, and how difficult is it to adjust it?
I actually have some instructions, but they are a little confusing. I was going to let a professional handle it but getting one out is like pulling teeth.

Thanks in advance
 

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The holes on the side determine how much lift. Normally the front/rear can change which depends on amount of load and angle. The tanks need to be pitched a tad lower then the hose that connects to it, doing this makes sure all air is expelled when lifted and total fill when lowered

Normal position would all use same holes otherwise
 
AllDodge said:
The holes on the side determine how much lift. Normally the front/rear can change which depends on amount of load and angle. The tanks need to be pitched a tad lower then the hose that connects to it, doing this makes sure all air is expelled when lifted and total fill when lowered

Normal position would all use same holes otherwise
Click to expand...
This is great information. The right side is definitely in a hole lower than the left. The rear of the tanks are much lower than the front. The right rear top is only about an inch or so above the water with the 24 foot Sea Ray Sundeck on it. The left rear is about 2 inches higher (Give or take). I wouldn't be that concerned about it but I like the skeg to be out of the water when the boat is lifted and the drive all the way down (I leave it down in the winter so no water sits in the prop area). When I prepare to unbolt the arm in the front of the lift to raise it a bolt hole, should I use a come along to hold/secure the arm? I'm not sure if I can reach the beam above, but I'm sure there is something there (or maybe a ratchet strap) to hold on to. The lower bolts should be ok (in the water) I'm hoping. I'm not touching them. I've added another photo

Thanks so much for your help
 

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AllDodge said:
The holes on the side determine how much lift. Normally the front/rear can change which depends on amount of load and angle. The tanks need to be pitched a tad lower then the hose that connects to it, doing this makes sure all air is expelled when lifted and total fill when lowered

Normal position would all use same holes otherwise
Click to expand...
This is great information.
The right side is definitely in a hole lower than the left. The rear of the tanks are much lower than the front.
The right rear top is only about an inch or so above the water with the 24 foot Sea Ray Sundeck on it. The left rear is about 2 inches higher (Give or take). I wouldn't be that concerned about it but I like the skeg to be out of the water when the boat is lifted and the drive all the way down (I leave it down in the winter so no water sits in the prop area)
 
To your other first question about the torsion bar, do not adjust it. It is only adjusted to lengthen or shrink the side to side length. The the side arms attach your good

The arms are going toward the bow which is good because this is designed for pull in like your have. As the hoist rises the bow goes forward and up. You have 3 tubes and say it's 6000 Lbs which should be more. The older fiberglass 6000# lift used only 2 tubes

With a pull in, you can add chains from rear angle irons to supports and keep the lift from sinking fully. Doing this allows it to stay just under the boat and helps docking and there isn't any smack of the lift to the boats hull when coming up

Seeing that none of the tubes come much higher from the scum line, I'm wondering how heavy is your boat?
 
It is a 6000 lbs lift. My boat shows a little under 5k with motor. There ARE chains already attached to the lift on each side. I was thinking the upper part of the arm might be heavy once I unbolt it from the mount. Graded, it's only going up a hole or 2. I'd like to raise both rears a bit so the rear comes up a pinch.
Again.. Thank you so much for your help
You're so great
 
A 5K boat on a 6K lift should lift it more than what I'm seeing

Do not remove bolts on anything other than ones that bolt to angle brackets without something holding the arms, and only on one end not both. Two people can swap arms but care must be used. That said your not going to do that so all ok

Sometimes the arms get bent and then trying to straighten it can be a real issue. Some kind of force, just watch what the bolts are doing when loosening to give you a tell as to what is under strain. Normally there is no issue so long as the bars between the arms have not been removed
 
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