I have a '79 Mariner 80HP SR# 5385386038. I used the Mariner 800 parts manual for all part numbers that I replaced. No cheap Chinese parts, either.
I replaced the internal wiring harness (414-3369) and it was a perfect match for the original harness that was all rotten. (See pics of the two)
I replaced the stator and the trigger plate because their wires were all rotten.
I'm using the old external wiring harness because it's in good shape. However, the wires to the key switch in the remote were crusty, so I peeled back some of the rubber cover and got to fresh wiring to resolder them onto the key switch.
Confusion sets in because the external wiring harness has 7 leads while the internal harness has 6 leads. (see pics) SELOC manual shows both have 7 leads even though there are only 6 wires coming out of the internal harness. There is a white wire on the external harness but no white wire on the internal harness, regardless of the number of leads. See wiring diagram I’ve attached. Even the instructions for my CDI internal harness say to tape off the white wire if installed.
Engine starts up and runs well but here are my problems:
For clarity to my current set up, I have the following notes:
I replaced the internal wiring harness (414-3369) and it was a perfect match for the original harness that was all rotten. (See pics of the two)
I replaced the stator and the trigger plate because their wires were all rotten.
I'm using the old external wiring harness because it's in good shape. However, the wires to the key switch in the remote were crusty, so I peeled back some of the rubber cover and got to fresh wiring to resolder them onto the key switch.
Confusion sets in because the external wiring harness has 7 leads while the internal harness has 6 leads. (see pics) SELOC manual shows both have 7 leads even though there are only 6 wires coming out of the internal harness. There is a white wire on the external harness but no white wire on the internal harness, regardless of the number of leads. See wiring diagram I’ve attached. Even the instructions for my CDI internal harness say to tape off the white wire if installed.
Engine starts up and runs well but here are my problems:
- I can't kill the engine by turning the key to the off position. I have to use choke to kill the engine. This happened before I cleaned up the wires in the remote and after I cleaned them up. I also tried disconnecting the harnesses to kill the engine, but she still ran!
- Remote choke doesn't work. I cleaned up the choke switch and resoldered its wires. When I tested it for continuity, it works. Strangely enough, if I use the “extra” pin with the white wire and the pin that has the grey wire for the choke, continuity checks when I push the choke button. But when I hook the tester up to a ground strap on the engine and the grey wire at the choke solenoid, there is no continuity when I press the choke button. Continuity checks between solenoid ground and a ground strap.
- While running the engine and holding a hose to the water tube (Lower unit is removed waiting on water pump), I got zapped pretty hard when I grabbed the key to try to shut the engine off (which of course, did nothing so I had to manually choke it to kill it).
- So what the heck is the 7[SUP]th[/SUP] pin (white wire) on the external harness doing since it connects to nothing on the internal harness?
- Why is the Choke signal not making it past the external harness? or am I simply not testing it correctly?
- Why did I get shocked?
- Do I have one simple solution that could fix all these issues or do I have multiple problems here?
For clarity to my current set up, I have the following notes:
- I have an aluminum boat.
- The engine is mounted on my boat with cables correctly running to the remote.
- The remote is NOT attached to the boat. Currently, I have it back by the transom so i could be by the engine holding the hose to the water tube.
- The battery cables are attached directly to a battery, not the selector dial.
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