Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1985 Evinrude 30HP - Only runs while choked

K

kalvinc

New member
Just bought a very used 16' jon boat with a 1985 Evinrude 30hp. It also has remote start/steering.
It has clearly been sitting a while. We managed to get the motor running but had to have full throttle and open choke in order to keep it running. From everything I have read so far, it seems that a carb rebuild is in order? Assuming I need to do that, what else should I replace while I am in there taking stuff apart? When I am done with this thing I want to have confidence it is going to start every single time I go to the ramp, first time.
 
Good morning,

id rebuild the carbs using carb cleaner and air compressor to blow any dirt out. Change needle and float out as well. I’d change the spark plugs and lower unit fluid. Hopefully you’ll be good to go then.
 
In agreement with Gree1994.... The carburetor is fouled due to sitting.

Be sure to manually clean the brass high speed jet that's located horizontally in the bottom center portion of the float chamber, way in back of the drain screw. Use a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do that job properly.

Fuel must flow freely thru that jet before it can gain access to any other fuel passageway.
 
Are there any other parts/hoses you would replace while doing the carb? Or don't fix something that may not be broken?
 
Update:

Rebuilt the carb, and after seeing the mess in there, replaced the fuel lines. The passage ways were completely full of gunk. It was rough.

It took a while to start (a LOT of cranking), but we finally got it running. We also checked the spark by holding the plugs about an inch away from the block and we had strong blue spark on both plugs. We let it idle for about 30 minutes while messing with throttle and putting it into gear etc. Decided to take it to the lake just down the road and open it up. Backed it into the water, turned the key, and it started instantly. Ran for about 30 seconds before it died. I had forgotten to vent the fuel tank. I opened the vent and we tried getting it started for another 15 minutes before heading back to the house.

Got back to the house and after a lot of cranking it would start every so often, but only run for a few seconds. We put some premixed fuel into a spray bottle and sprayed directly into the carb. It started right up but only ran for a second. This is our first carb rebuild. The rebuild kit came with a lot of extra parts ( I understand it covers a variety of years/models ) But it came with the metal caps. I was wondering if there was a way to take those metal caps off our carb and if there were parts underneath those that we needed to clean out? Also wondering if we should have rebuilt the fuel pump while we were at it? We did flush fresh fuel through the pump before hooking the hose up to the rebuilt carb.
 
Last edited:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=dnBCNktjc0UxaGtCSTFEaG1uYUpMQU03dUxIYmRR
GEdeC9SZtev5M9DN8
 
Last edited:
C826C6B0-306E-41F9-B0E8-89A48785B9BC.jpgSir look and see or remember if you changed these at minimum the silver colored buttons will match the ones on your carb you just take a screw driver pull them out like smash it in pull it out clean those areas very well then take the new buttons hit the driver part of the screw driver while the back side is on those buttons and you’ll hit those in place shouldn’t fall out at all change orings and the needle the spring and the float if you need a demo and can’t find one similar on YouTube let me know these carbs are similar just different sizes and shapes so for the most part any carb on 30-70hp I’d think in those years should be similar to yours if you find a video and change the brass circle fitting where the needle goes and don’t bend that float metal either if you need to adjust the back tab it’ll be lonely facing one way while there is 2 facing the other way adjust the one lonely as needed hold the carb like itd sit on the motor let that float hang down needle should be separated from the brass fitting push the float up and see if the needle is completely up against the hole opening on the brass fitting very little pressure cause you wanna have it like gas would push the float up. The needle has to be good shape cause it stops fuel from entering into the bowl of the carb and as the carb raises it pushes the needle to stop fuel flow so you don’t flood your carb sorry it’s such a long novel hopefully you understand it I’m not the best with writing but message me if you got questions
 
We replaced all those parts except the big gasket circled in the top right. Our carb didnt have anything remotely similar to that. We will take it off today and pry those metal caps off and clean out underneath them.
 
Okay those carb kits are to make one kit to fit multiple catlrbs some won’t have it so your good there just blow down really good with air compressor with bowl off and use safety wire to go through the hole with carb cleaner. Like I said if you need help let me know. Btw some carbs has a adjustable screw make sure you count the amount of turns when you take it out that controls how rich or lean the carb will put out in gas to the motor you want it just perfect
 
Probably crap under those caps. I can send you if you can't find locally. Got a box of 'em here in MN. GREE is onto your problem. Joe can show you best adjusting techniques. Impeller replacement is cheap insurance as aformentioned by Rio.
 
Last edited:
We took the carb out, pried off all those caps and cleaned everything out. Upon re-install, we noticed the fuel hose was kinked under the carb! We had replaced it with fuel line from the auto store. I got marine grade fuel line and also shortened it by about 2 inches. Once we got everything put back together she fired right up! Fiddled with the low speed adjustment knob until she was just barely purring at no throttle. Going to order parts for impeller and lower unit gear oil change now.
 
We took the carb back off today, noticed that the bowl was bone dry. Went ahead and popped those caps off, cleaned under them (Not much in there really), put new caps on, reinstalled carb. When reinstalling, noticed that the new fuel hose was kinking really badly under the carb. Picked up some thinner wall hose that didn't kink up when installing. Installed carb, primed it and it fired right up and idled pretty good. Let it run for awhile and took her out to the lake to open it up and it ran beautifully. Still some tuning to do, need to change out the lower unit oil and the impeller for sure, but it's running really nice considering it sat for who knows how many years.

Thanks for your help everyone!
 
Last edited:
Honestly I wouldn’t do a gearcase seal kit till you know there is water in the lower unit cause sometimes your good other times your not but I’ll say If it sat for years and no water in it bc the gear case didn’t crack I think you should be good. I’d just replace the impeller and lower unit fluid. Change your unit fluid before the winter sets in so if any water is in there it doesn’t crack it and you can change the plugs every winter or spring but you should change them once a year I usually try and go 2.
 
Back
Top