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Evinrude 28 spl SLOW mode governor?

G

Groo

New member
I have a pontoon board with a 28spl to learn boating on.
Last year it was fine. This year once it heats up, a governor kicks in. I get a few seconds of "speed", then I am stuck just above idle.
It sure feels like a spark governor rev limiter, but I did try fresh gas with seafoam in a new tank; no difference.
My next thought was it was overheating, so picked up an impeller kit. The old one looks fine, but I'll probably change it anyways while I have it open.
That has me thinking temp probe or CDI. Rather than just throw more parts at it, is there a room temp resistance I should get out of the temp probe? and where is it?
one other question;
I noticed a bunch of oily sludge inside the vertical aluminum housings between the gears and the power-head (not sure of the term).
Is that normal? It looks like maybe the return water goes through there?

I'd rather not have a personal contest to see how much money I am willing to dump into this particular pit.
 
check this part number from CDI, [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Roboto Regular, Geneva, Lucida Grande, Helvetica Neue, sans-serif]113-4489 Power Pack Conversion Kit 2 Cylinder, when there check the "tech info download" tab, at he very bottom it talks about testing the slow circuit, the part is also a power pack replacement for your year "89"(according to model number search on this site) maybe

you say " once it heats up" and only get a few seconds of speed, maybe your over heating and the slow mode is working correctly[/FONT]
 
scalhoun506 said:
check this part number from CDI, 113-4489 Power Pack Conversion Kit 2 Cylinder, when there check the "tech info download" tab, at he very bottom it talks about testing the slow circuit, the part is also a power pack replacement for your year "89"(according to model number search on this site) maybe

you say " once it heats up" and only get a few seconds of speed, maybe your over heating and the slow mode is working correctly
Click to expand...

Overheating was a thought I had initially, and why I purchased the water-pump kit before tearing into it. The old pump impeller and housing all look fine. I see no signs of intake clogging. Those are about the only two things that could cause such a dramatic change from one year to the next with regard to overheating I would think.

Do you have a link to the page with the tab you are referring to?
this? https://www.wholesalemarine.com/content/PDFs/Installation_Instructions_CDI-113-4489.pdf

It is a pain to work on in the water. The boat has the engine are well covered, and my dock are is not friendly to be working on it either.
 
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UFI (under flywheel ignition) was a troublesome system only used for a few years by OMC. CDI made a kit to put the ignition back outside where OMC had it & put it back a few years later. OMC offered an improvement to try & keep the components attached to the mag plate. If you have to replace I would go with the CDI kit at this point. I would probably pull the flywheel for a look?

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=CDI113-4489

May be worth trying QL77JC4 plugs. Sometimes interference can occur with the temp sensor wire. If you are sure the motor is not overheating you can unplug the sensor on the head temporarily for a test. If the motor runs fine you could have a flaky sensor. Keep the sensor wire away from the plug wires. RFI (radio frequency interference) will not turn on the horn.
 
I guess reading the test procedure, its just a thermostatic switch, and not something that tells the computer an actual temperature.
The SLOW kicks in so quick, it would have to not be circulating any water for it to actually be overheating that quick, but like I said, the pump and inlet look fine.
I guess pull the wire and see if its the CDI or the thermo-switch.
 
The sensor is just a grounding tab inside. It provides a ground path for the horn. When the motor gets hot it goes to ground sounding the horn.
 
Unplugging the wire got the boat running full rpm, but after a few hours running; the engine got real hot. I suspect I may have 2 things going on, or maybe the flow inside the head is messed up?

would opening up the head be the next step?

I am running a cut-down prop (took some chunks out of it, so had it cut down even on a lathe) because I didn't want to put the new prop on in case I never got this thing running right. I can't see why it would cause a problem, but I figured more information is always better.

I assume if I had screwed up the water-pump replacement too bad, it would have locked up before I got it to my home dock.
 
Unplugging the wire got the boat running full rpm, but after a few hours running; the engine got real hot. I suspect I may have 2 things going on.

would opening up the head be the next step?

I am running a cut-down prop (took some chunks out of it, so had it cut down even on a lathe) because I didn't want to put the new prop on in case I never got this thing running right. I can't see why it would cause a problem, but I figured more information is always better.
 
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