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Rick,
Finally got the seal installed and the drive filled with synthetic oil. Still bangs when shifting. Do you think at this point I should be looking to get the transmission reworked?As said...... to the best of my knowledge, we cannot purchase a steel sliding sleeve by itself. We would need to purchase an entire gear set of which would include the steel sliding sleeve.
Now..... it may (operative word "may") be possible to remove the dark coating from each gear cup and install a new bronze sliding sleeve. I don't know..... I have not done this.
Are the crosses (u-joints to some) good?
Yes.... bearing crosses. (a universal joint (aka U-joint) is the sum of all components)
I haven't pulled the transmission to check the U joints yet. I kind of ruled that out since there is absolutely no vibration in the drive from idle all the way to full throttle.
I would agree.
If the bearing crosses were bad, you would have certainly encountered a vibration.
Pulled the transmission and the bellows was full of oil.
If you have gear oil in this area, and if the drive was NOT over-filled, then the main drive gear seal is leaking.
I took the transmission apart and there doesn't seem to be any debris in the cups/cone.
Look closely at the sliding sleeve's oiling groves for tiny metallic debris.
I assume the gear lube in the bellows was caused by a leaking seal in front so I removed the u joint to inspect and the seal looks good.
This seal should be approx .030"/.035" or so smaller in size than that of the seal-surface-washer.
In other words, the seal would need to expand about .030"/.035" in order to slide over the washer.
The shift shoe has two shiny spots on it like it is contacting the cone (sliding sleeve) at an "angle" since the shiny spots are to one end on the top and bottom of the shoe. Could this be the cause of the bad shifting?
Not likely!
........................... At this point I am wondering if I just need to purchase it rebuilt unit and install it it see if that takes care of the problem.
The C and later transmission is going to be expensive. These are the large driven gear bearing units.
If you go this route, please read up on the shimming procedure. A different transmission will require that the shim value be re-calculated and adjusted.
Also, be careful if buying from an E-Bay seller. Many do not know what they have and are selling.
Here is an example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Pent...ash=item239ee4efc7:g:CuEAAOSwfN5a2Nh4&vxp=mtr
This is NOT a 290 transmission.
Also note that the E transmission will NOT work for you. It would be a correct fit for you..... but the reduction is incorrect for your drive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Pent...ash=item2aa6880607:g:EgEAAOSwdXdanYZW&vxp=mtr
Rick,
I was looking at a site called freshwatervolvoparts.com. If I purchase a resealed trans from them I will need to do some shimming where it bolts to the intermediate housing?
Yes..... that will be imperative.
The best and easiest method is one that I have explained here many times.
You will over-shim, install the new/used transmission (minus the O-rings), and just snug it into position with the two cap screws and the two hex nuts.
You will then take multiple feeler gauge readings between the transmission case and the Intermediate housing.
You will then reduce that shim pack value to a value that leaves you with a .003" over-shim.
Examples:
If your feeler gauge reading is .010", you will reduce the over-shim pack by .007".
If your feeler gauge reading is .007", you will reduce the over-shim pack by .004".
When the unit is finally installed and secured (with new O-rings), the .003" over-shim creates a "squeeze" against the lower driven gear outer bearing race, yet it allows the two cases to close the gap when fully tightened.
This "squeeze" is to prevent outer bearing race rotation while under load.
Likewise with the top cover if that part was to be replaced!
Do you do any type of rebuilds if a customer ships their trans to you? If so could you PM me an approximate cost?
I did for approximately 24 years or so, but I no longer do it.
Please understand that a standard re-seal, bearing and gear inspection and gear pattern check is very likely not going to correct your issue. I believe that your sliding sleeve and FWD gear cup is the issue, and these are not replaceable components by themselves.
A new gear set and sliding sleeve would run you about $1,900+ or so...... possibly even more!
A complete new transmission would run close to $5k.
However, (and I do not know the answer to this) I'm wondering if a bronze sliding sleeve would work if the black coating was polished away from the gear cups!
I wish I could find a competent volvo tech where I live but that doesn't seem to be the case.
Unfortunately for you guys in the mid-west or back east, Volvo Penta does not have a large market share in these areas. Finding a shop with an experienced tech in these areas is nearly impossible. They hear AQ series Volvo Penta.......... and they tend to run!!!!!
There is an old ( been buying parts from them since 1964) Volvo parts distributor/repair shop here in NJ... Monmouth Marine. http://www.monmouthmarineengines.com/services/
These days you can ship cross country for the same price you can ship next town over. The transmission might fit in a USPS priority box...
Yes..... if the female yoke is removed from the universal shaft, you can ship a transmission using the USPS flat rate box for about $18 or so.
If the yoke is not removed, and if the yoke was to break through the side or the corner of the box, the USPS will invoke a $32+ up charge!
(this happened several times when receiving a transmission)
I always doubled the box by tweaking the sides in on the first box, then slide that box into a second outside box.
I would then wrap the outside box's perimeter with nylon enforced tape so that nothing broke through as the postal workers played soccer with it.