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1993 40 hp evinrude power pack blowing

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ronnie63

New member
i have a 1993 tracker with a 40 hp evinude and the power packs keep shorting when i remove the power pack the ground wire on the back is melted were it goes into the pack it all started took the boat out of winter storage got it running took it out on the water was running fien than just quit crank no start found a bad power pack but a new one start up ran i shut it down to hook om the rabbit ears and would not start removed the power pack burnt ground wire has anyone seen this issue please help
 
The ignition is self contained on that engine. DO NOT have battery voltage going to any portion of it!

There are two "M" terminals on the ignition switch. One should have a black/yellow wire connected to it... the other "M" terminal should have just one black wire attached to it that leads to ground. There should be nothing else connected to those terminals

Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch. Now, connect a volt meter, set so that it will register the slightest amount of voltage if present, even a microvolt, between that "M" terminal and ground. Turn the key to the ON position (engine NOT running) while observing the meter. If any voltage registers on the meter, that indicates that the ignition switch is shorted internally, and if so, replace it.

Let us know what you find.
 
So i did check the m terminal and found voltage i am going to replace the ignition switch and retest the m terminal to make sure there is no voltage on the bk/yell terminal i'll let you know how i make out the bad news ill need to get another power pack @ $115.00


joereeves said:
The ignition is self contained on that engine. DO NOT have battery voltage going to any portion of it!

There are two "M" terminals on the ignition switch. One should have a black/yellow wire connected to it... the other "M" terminal should have just one black wire attached to it that leads to ground. There should be nothing else connected to those terminals

Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch. Now, connect a volt meter, set so that it will register the slightest amount of voltage if present, even a microvolt, between that "M" terminal and ground. Turn the key to the ON position (engine NOT running) while observing the meter. If any voltage registers on the meter, that indicates that the ignition switch is shorted internally, and if so, replace it.

Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...
 
I installed a new ignition switch and retested the m terminal and i still have voltage on the bk/yell wire all so on the other m terminal there are three blk wires and one brown wire attached to it looks like the old switch had been replaced at some point and the switch did not have the screw type connectors on it not sure what do check next
 
ronnie63 said:
I installed a new ignition switch and retested the m terminal and i still have voltage on the bk/yell wire all so on the other m terminal there are three blk wires and one brown wire attached to it looks like the old switch had been replaced at some point and the switch did not have the screw type connectors on it not sure what do check next
Click to expand...

* -The black/yellow wire is to be disconnected from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch.
* -The volt meter is to be connected between that "M" terminal of the ignition switch and a ground. NOT connected to the black/yellow wire!

********************
(Ignition Kill Circuit)
(J. Reeves)

A Black wire (ground) should lead from the powerhead to the powerpack. There will also be a Black/Yellow wire leading from the powerpack to a raised "M" terminal of the ignition switch. To complete the circuit, there will be a Black wire from the other "M" terminal of the ignition switch to ground.

When the key is in the OFF position = The two "M" terminals are connected,. effectively shorting/killing the ignition.

When the key in ON position = The two "M" terminals are not connected and the ignition is engaged.
***************

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire on the wiring harness side, NOT the powerpack side and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
 
joereeves said:
* -The black/yellow wire is to be disconnected from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch.
* -The volt meter is to be connected between that "M" terminal of the ignition switch and a ground. NOT connected to the black/yellow wire!

********************
(Ignition Kill Circuit)
(J. Reeves)

A Black wire (ground) should lead from the powerhead to the powerpack. There will also be a Black/Yellow wire leading from the powerpack to a raised "M" terminal of the ignition switch. To complete the circuit, there will be a Black wire from the other "M" terminal of the ignition switch to ground.

When the key is in the OFF position = The two "M" terminals are connected,. effectively shorting/killing the ignition.

When the key in ON position = The two "M" terminals are not connected and the ignition is engaged.
***************

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire on the wiring harness side, NOT the powerpack side and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
Click to expand...


with the large red connector disconnected voltage at the ignition switch has stopped so i than test for voltage at the blk/yell wire at the power pack and voltage is still present i than tested for voltage at red large connector side were the blk/yell wire is and have voltage on that pin i check the reamaing pins and all are good but the 12 volt feed wire i believe the red connector is were my short is your throughs
 
sorry for the delay in responding just want to bring u up to speed i located and repaired the problem it turns out that i had almost 9.0 volts on the blk/yell wire and it was coming from the red engine harness in the harness there is 12. volt supply coming from the batter and the blk/yell wire just happens to sit next to the 12. volt wire in the harness so something in the red connector was causing volt to be applied to the blk/yell so my fix i cut both ends of the blk/yell wire from the red connector and jumped them back together by passing the red connector rechecked for voltag and 0 volts problem solved hops this may help someone else thanks for you help
 
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