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1967 Johnson 5hp carb

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Onslow

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I have a 1967 5hp Johnson outboard my dad has had for 25 years. It has not ran in 7-10 years. I had to replace the steel tank and some fuel fittings. I got fuel to the carb but Will only run when I squirt gas into the carb. I am assuming the carb float is gummed up. Does anyone have info on how to take the carb apart or tips on what I should do ? I also broke the pull cord off so I need some pointers on how to get that back on !!
Id love to have this old girl running!!
any help would be much appreciated
 
The carburetor is very simply, nothing so complicated such as a automobile carburetor. Just make notes and take pictures before and as you dismantle it. The manual starter... see below:

(Manual Starter Cord Installation)
(This pertains to the vertical type of Manual Starters such as the 9.5hp and later 4.5/6/8hp models etc)
(J. Reeves)


1 - Have a pair of vice grips handy set so that they will grab the top of the starter spindle tightly but will not damage it.


2 - Using a large screwdriver inserted into the top of the starter spindle, wind the starter in a counter clockwise direction 12 to 14 turns, stopping so that the cord locking slot is facing the away from the engine.


3 - Lock the spindle in that position with the vice grips, letting the vice grips lay against the flywheel.


4 - Insert the cord as needed and make sure it is retained properly at that slot.


5 - Feed the cord out the starter cord hole at the front of the engine and attach the handle.


6 - Grip the cord tightly so that the spindle cannot spin around rapidly, then release the vice grips.


7 - Allow the cord to be withdrawn slowly around the spindle.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
High speed jet is probably gummed up in the carburetor. Might as well do a thorough cleaning. Yes, replace the gaskets
 
Onslow said:
Thanks for the info !
will I need a rebuild kit for the carb ? Gaskets ect or everything can be reused?
Click to expand...

I always install a new complete carburetor kit in order to avoid double work.

Be sure to manually clean the high speed jet that is located horizontally in the bottom center portion of the float chamber. Use a piece of a single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do that job properly.
 
I took the carb off and going to bring it into work tonight to take apart. I couldn't seem to get any tension on the pull cord reel ? Not sure what I'm doing wrong. When I wind it up do I have it engaged into the starter? Which holds the tension ?
 
Onslow said:
I couldn't seem to get any tension on the pull cord reel ? Not sure what I'm doing wrong. When I wind it up do I have it engaged into the starter? Which holds the tension ?
Click to expand...

Reread again the instructions I posted until it sinks in thoroughly. Sometimes it's hard to see the forest for all those damn trees in front of it. You're just overlooking something there.
 
Onslow said:
I couldn't seem to get any tension on the pull cord reel ? Not sure what I'm doing wrong. When I wind it up do I have it engaged into the starter? Which holds the tension ?
Click to expand...

If you're asking if the plastic bendix gear needs to be into the flywheel teeth.... No, keep it out of the flywheel.

The manual starter shaft when looked at straight down, must be turned in a counter clockwise direction. If when turning the shaft just a few turns, you do not feel any tension, either the PIN is missing form the top portion of the shaft (pin holds the gear in place), OR the hook like bottom of the spring is broken off, OR (if it applies) the removable housing that grabs that spring hook is missing.
 
joereeves said:
If you're asking if the plastic bendix gear needs to be into the flywheel teeth.... No, keep it out of the flywheel.

The manual starter shaft when looked at straight down, must be turned in a counter clockwise direction. If when turning the shaft just a few turns, you do not feel any tension, either the PIN is missing form the top portion of the shaft (pin holds the gear in place), OR the hook like bottom of the spring is broken off, OR (if it applies) the removable housing that grabs that spring hook is missing.
Click to expand...
It's definitely got to be one of those conditions. Turning counter clockwise not engage to flywheel there is no tension building. I took it off so I could get carb off so I will have a closer look at those components when I put the carb back on. I'm sure finding parts for this old motor is no that easy.
 
Is there a choke on the engine ? Is it connected to actually choke the carburator ? When using the choke. Can you see or smell gasoline ?

How have you set up the float ? Is the float gasoline soaked ? Is the float needle operating correctly ?
 
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Yes to all of your questions except for is the float gasoline soaked ? And as for set up correctly I don't know the proper specs as I don't have a service manual. It does operate tthou
im going to buy a new pull cord today as the old one is in pretty bad shape. There is no Johnson dealer close to me so hopefully Suzuki ones are a close match.
I am now able to get tension on the manual starter, the spring had poped out of its home.
The Long needle rod for adjusting lean or rich gas ... Should that be threaded all the way in?
Sorry I don't know all the names of the parts I'm an industrial electrician not a small engine mechanic lol
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Any lawn mower shop or hardware store will have the rope for the pull start. The float adjustment is hold it upside down the float should be level with the carb, never use finger pressure on the float it is easy to damage the needle and seat. pre adjust the high speed needle in the bottom of the float bowl out 3/4 turn from lightly seated in. Then adjust the low needle out 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. It is best to adjust the carb out on the water in gear after the engine is up to temp. Turn the slow needle out counterclockwise 1/8 turn at a time and wait 20 seconds until the engine coughs then turn it in until it cuts out then back out for a smooth idle. point toward the big part of the lake and go WOT and just adjust the high speed needle for the best performance. then go back to idle and readjust it the same way as you did earlier but once you find a nice smooth idle add 1/4 turn rich counterclockwise for cold starts and protect it for slow speed operation. Snug down on the packing nuts for the high and low speed needles so they dont vibrate out of adjustment. you should be barely able to turn the needles if the knobs are off of them. GL
Click to expand...
i wish I had of know this before I got it all installed ! Can't really do much adjustment now that its all put back together and installed. I did put finger pressure on float quite a few times, hopefully I didn't caused any damage. I'm gonna cross my fingers it all works out!
im a little confused on how the pull cord ties in to stay on the starter
 
Onslow

I have never seen a carburator with low & high speed screws buried.
If you accidently threaded the long needle adjustment screw all the way in to make it tight like a screw. You may have sprung the shape of it. Or put a slight groove on the 2 seating surfaces. If that has happened. You will find a VERY difficult WOT adjustment point.

If at all possible. Loosen KIMs gland nut on it. Remove the needle. Look for there being a sealing washer / O ring / packing thread inside the gland nut.

Then take the needle to a smooth topped table surface. Use a accurate carpenter or machinist square on the table next to the needle. Check at every 90 degrees around the standing needle, that the needle is NOT BENT AT ALL.

First file / sand off any sharp burs on the slot edges of the needle that would prevent the needle head from standing perfectly straight up by itself. D

Do the same check for the idle needle. Reassemble & pre adjust both KIMs way.

KIM.......
I am suspicious about the float being too low if he can smell fuel when choking the engine. But must spray in additional fuel to start it.
The other possibility is all the gaskets on the engine have dried completly thru the years & need to have every screw on them tightned. That may help the Carburator draw fuel up both fuel passages again.
Or The engine needs a complete gasketing of all fuel handling surfaces.

Racer one.

He needs to do one of your compression & spark tests ? What values should he be looking for ?


+ 40 years can cause a lot of small & large problems to deal with. Mechanical & electrical.

I only know of 2 great marine mechanics in my area. I would take it to 1 of them so you have a GOOD engine to begin with & enjoy the memories again.

Best of luck.
 
The high speed jet is screwed into the float bowl and it is a calibrated orifice.-----No adjustment is required !------The low speed fuel mixture is adjustable to compensate for fuel and local atmospheric conditions.
 
So I got the cord installed, should have a new one but all the stores are closed now.
I was able to start the motor, had to inject fuel into carb to get it to run .. Sometimes it would run for a few seconds other times for a min or two. I see there is gas dripping from the filter that I can't tighten anymore .. Likly sucking air .. Should be replaced really. When I do have it running its not real smooth, have to have it wot pretty much to keep running and the choke has to be open about half way ... Close it and it stalls even after running for a bit. I'm sure the carb needs set up correctly but I don't see Any adjustment screws for this other then taking it apart to get at the main jet which I tightened in till snug and never backed out a couple turns. The only one I can adjust is the lean rich valve.
 
If you buy a carb kit they usually come with some basic instructions that should help you. The carb should be soaked in a good cleaning agent some times over nite to be sure all the orifices and areas are clean. Sonic cleaners work great for this if you have access to one, just don't put the cleaner in the sonic cleaner directly. Boom. That leaky fuel filter could be causing issues for sure as you mentioned. Sounds like a little patience is the name of the game here.
 
That motor does NOT have an adjustable high speed jet. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...n&section=Carburetor+And+Manual+Starter+Group The high speed orifice plug (jet) is item # 51. Is that what you are referring to when you say it is screwed in snug? It should be. It must be absolutely,positively shiny CLEAN without any trace of any crud in the tiny hole through it. But don't be sticking wires and drills etc through it. Oversize is as bad as undersize. Your classic description of your problem indicates it is not clean. The slow speed needle #35 should be open about 1-1/2 turns and adjusted from there. OR, it is possible that it is not a carburetor problem at all. Are you sure it is running on both cylinders? Got goot and equal compression on both cylinders?
 
Having to always add EXTRA fuel by squirting or choking, sounds like at least 1 piece of crud STILL stuck somewhere in the carb.

You have a bitchy problem. At least take the carb to a pro. you need to eliminate 1 possible problem to get rolling again.

Question. Can you disconnect the fuel line right at the carb ? Catch the dripping gas in a very CLEAN & CLEAR jar. You want to be sure no specks of crud are going into the carb.........Forgot. SHAKE the fuel tank & engine violently. We WANT to stir up any crud so it is seen in the jars. Stirup & drain about 1 or 2 pints worth.

Really cleaned out tank & lines are a MUST to elimanate repeat problems.
 
fdrgator said:
That motor does NOT have an adjustable high speed jet. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...n&section=Carburetor+And+Manual+Starter+Group The high speed orifice plug (jet) is item # 51. Is that what you are referring to when you say it is screwed in snug? It should be. It must be absolutely,positively shiny CLEAN without any trace of any crud in the tiny hole through it. But don't be sticking wires and drills etc through it. Oversize is as bad as undersize. Your classic description of your problem indicates it is not clean. The slow speed needle #35 should be open about 1-1/2 turns and adjusted from there. OR, it is possible that it is not a carburetor problem at all. Are you sure it is running on both cylinders? Got goot and equal compression on both cylinders?
Click to expand...

I was talking about 42 being screw in all the weating if 51 is behind the drain plug then I'm missing that part all together!
so 35 should be threaded in all the way then backed out 1-1/2 turns?
There is fire to both cylinders but I have no way to check compression.
I will have to remove and soak too I think
 
Yes, behind the drain plug and deep in the hole. It would be impossible to run without it, so it had to have been in there at one time. Yes, 1-1/2 turn out from lightly seated on the slow speed needle. Then readjust if for best idle.
 
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