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Alternate method for filling engine block with AF

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kcjaz

New member
I have a Volvo 5.7 Gi stern drive and am trying to find a better way to winterize the engine. Currently, after I drain the water out of the block by removinf the plugs and hoses, I fill the block with AF by removing the large hose from the t-stat housing and just pour it in until AF starts comming out of the t-stat housing. My question is can the plug on the top of the main circulating water pump be removed and used to fill the engine block with AF for winterization? My thought was that I could fill the block using this connection on the top of the pump housing if I removed the plug and installed a piece of pipe long enough so that the end was above the t-stat housing, all that would be needed to fill the block is removing the cap on the end of the pipe and pouring the AF in.
 
kcjaz, I think that you're on the right track by draining the block and when probing the drain ports to remove any rust scale.

Don't forget to pull the Circ pump suction hose as to drain this area also. (the block drain ports will not drain this)
The plug in the top of the Circ pump port will likely not come loose. Doing the above will drain the Circ pump.

The risk in what you are suggesting is dilution from any residual sea water that may remain in the block. It won't be much, but if now pushed into a confined area (not being mixed with the AF), it may freeze expand.

The internal engine block rust prevention (from the AF) is minimally important compared to the the risks of freeze expansion damage.
If you do this, I'd drain this again afterwards!

Just plain ole air within the block/heads won't freeze and expand.

Pull the sea water pump impeller at this time also. It will fair much better if out of the pump body for the lay up duration.

.
 
Currently, after I drain the water out of the block by removinf the plugs and hoses,
Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... I agree with Rick,....

Drain it, 'n forget it...

Antifreeze is a waste of time, 'n Money...
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,.... I agree with Rick,....

Drain it, 'n forget it...

Antifreeze is a waste of time, 'n Money...
Click to expand...
..... and if I may, that is because the amount of rust scale that could occure is so minimal, that it becomes a moot point to try and prevent it, given the risks of a mistake and freeze expansion damage.

Pour it in if you want to, and benefit from the protection..... just drain it again afterwards!
 
Thanks guys for the replys. I'm starting to come around to the just drain it philosphy but I've done what I'm currently doing for 9 years and haven't busted a block yet. I'm 100% sure I drain it completely before I fill it with AF. I had a dealer mechanic tell me to just drain it too as that is all they do for customers that bring in their boats for winterization with one exception. That exception is the Volvo 4.3L block (could be just certian years, I dunno). He told me that they fill that one with AF because the intake manifold has a pocket that doesn't completely drain. Filling with AF provides for enough mixing of this small amount of water with AF that it still prevents freezing. I'm pretty sure the AF/water mixing thing is true at least for fresh water. Don't know if 4.3l Volvo not completely draing thing is true but as my boat was a 4.3L Volvo, I always did this figuring better safe than sorry. My new 5.7l Gi doesn't have this issue and I know of other who just drain and leave this block so maybe that is what I'll do.

On the topic of draining, I'm considering the "Minute Drain" system as a means to make this a little easier and let me boat into November as where I'm at we can still get some nice weather that late. The only thing I see as a risk with this system is if a block drain or one of the small hose drain fittings were to get plugged, you might not notice and still have water in there. If you take things apart to rod out with a wire, then your're defeating the purpose of the system which is convenience. Am I just worring too much? I'd like to hear from anyone who uses this system.
 
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