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Y pipe removal from transom housing/shield, 280 drive ,44 years old

O

oldshore

Contributing Member
So I removed the 4 nuts from the outside of the transom shield/housing. Now what? The two pieces of aluminum are probably fused as one. Do I have to sacrifice the Y pipe to remove the transom shield? I have to replace the transom and of course need to separate metls with many years of salt water corrosion. Ugh.
 
Yes, by now there will be lots of corrosion between the Y-pipe exhaust outlet and the bore in the transom shield for this outlet.

With the four bolts removed, gently turn the Y-pipe towards Stbd and then back towards Port. Repeat this.

Try to NOT twist FWD or AFT, because this is when it will break the outlet off.

Use heat on the transom shield in this area.
Heat will expand the aluminum some and should help break up the corrosion.
Once you get it moving, then apply a penetrating oil.


.
 
Are the bolts actually studs in the Y pipe? or are they removable?. I did remove the nuts from the outside of the transom housing. It seems there are no bolt heads on the inside of the Y pipe.
 
The fasteners are BOLTS or were, from the outside in. If someone replaced them with studs/nuts you're in for a battle since you can't rotate the Y tube.
 
oldshore said:
Are the bolts actually studs in the Y pipe? or are they removable?. I did remove the nuts from the outside of the transom housing. It seems there are no bolt heads on the inside of the Y pipe.
Click to expand...
The Y-pipe is machined for four 3/8" NC thread inserts.
The four SS bolts thread into inserts, not into aluminum threads.



boatdoc55 said:
The fasteners are BOLTS or were, from the outside in. If someone replaced them with studs/nuts you're in for a battle since you can't rotate the Y tube.
Click to expand...
Agreed... a battle for sure.


oldshore said:
Definitely nuts on the outside of the transom housing, UGH. May just as well cut the y pipe off :(
Click to expand...
Good used double exhaust relief 280/275/285 Y-pipe = $$$$$$

Find a way to extract the four studs.
You will not be able to rotate the pipe Port/Stbd with studs installed.

Go to the inside of the pipe where the thread inserts are housed, and apply heat to these four areas.
You may need a special stud extracting tool, but the studs should come out.


.
 
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A threaded stud extractor could be one found at a tool specialty shop.
The diameter may limit it's use since these studs are so close to the exhaust outlet.



Or it could be as simple as using a 3/8" NC coupling nut, and threading a second 3/8" NC bolt into the end of the coupling nut, and jamming the two together.
For better grip, put a small piece of brass shim stock between the two of them.
You'd be surprised at how well these two will lock themselves together.... especially if the brass piece is used.

When the coupling nut is turned, and with any luck, the stud may back out.

Again, use heat to your advantage.

 
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Have a good shop!

As only about 1/2" of thread is sticking out, I will use the coupler on the threads, then run a bolt through the coupler and tighten, then try to turn the coupler. A thin piece of brass may be hard to find. I will try without it first.
 
1/2" of exposed stud threads is not much. You may have difficulty, but you sure have nothing to loose by trying.

I wouldn't even think about it until you apply heat to the inside area.
If if turns out that heat was not necessary, then again, not much to loose by playing it safe.
 
I have the same same y pipe and same issues.
Excellent advice.

Not to hijack this thread, I'm new here.

Will the AQ200 (305-V8) y pipe work on a AQ130 transom shield? (my AQ200 shield is rotted)
Does the AQ200 need the two small rubber hoses?
The AQ130 only has one and is blocked by the single pipe exhaust anyway.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
...........................

OysterTrainer said:
Not to hijack this thread, I'm new here.
A hijack is a hijack.... but as long as we're here! :D

Will the AQ200 (305-V8) y pipe work on a AQ130 transom shield? (my AQ200 shield is rotted)
If this is an AQ200 B.... yes.

The AQ200B and AQ225B Y-pipes were single exhaust relief and were for the 3" O.D. exhaust outlets.

Does the AQ200 need the two small rubber hoses?
Those are the "rubber hoooks".
Again.... if this is an AQ200 B, it will be a single exhaust relief system.

The AQ130 only has one and is blocked by the single pipe exhaust anyway.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
The AQ130 transom shield will be a 250, I believe.
The 250/270 uses the small collar steering fork shaft diameter.
You'll do better with a 280/275 4 cylinder single relief transom shield with the larger fork shaft diameter... IMO.
Click to expand...
 
I don't know how to tell if it's an AQ200 "B".
My AQ200 says "280" on the shift cover.
The AQ130's say "280" on the shift cover.
Both AQ130 outdrives look identical to my AQ200. (diifferent ratios/props than AQ200, of course)

The Y pipe on my AQ200 is the same diameter as the AQ130 single pipe (approx. 3" diameter). (I have complete AQ130 w/motor, I also have outdrive & transom shield that looks to be from another AQ130).

My AQ200 transom shield has two rubber hooks, the AQ130's have only one holeand it's plugged.
Does my AQ200 require the rubber hooks for exhaust or are they for draining the Y pipe when the outdrive is tilted (boat on trailer)?

The steering arm on the AQ130's are twice the length of the AQ200.
All three transom shields AQ200 & AQ130's steering shaft diameters look to be about 1-5/16".
The AQ 200 uses a bracket lever to achieve the same ratio, the bracket pivots above the raw water intake.
Can I use a transom mounted steering cable clamp with the longer AQ130 steering arm instead of the transom shield mounted bracket assembly?
 
It's in a 1980 24' Reinell sedan.
The Volvo Penta books with th boat indicate AQ200D.
My Y pipe looks like the lower one with angled connections on the motor end.

My main question is if the "rubber hooks" are necessary.
What is their purpose, anyway?

Hey, thanks for the help.

This is a former Portland Sturgeon boat-house boat.
Gonna be a family trailer boat, barn kept, so corrosion won't be an issue.
 
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OysterTrainer said:
  1. My Y pipe looks like the lower one with angled connections on the motor end.

  2. My main question is if the "rubber hooks" are necessary.

  3. What is their purpose, anyway?
Click to expand...
  1. OK.... this Y-pipe will NOT work with the 4 cylinder single relief transom shield.
    You need the V-8 double relief shield. $$$$$$$

  2. Short answer.... YES!

  3. The two rubber hooks serve multiple purposes.

    The main purpose is the "T-hat" shaped ends. These form the seal between the Y-pipe and the transom shield.

    Secondly, but no less important, the hook portion diverts the low speed exhaust gasses and water away from the drive.

    Thirdly, the duck billed area checks against water surge or back flow while at low engine speeds.

    IOW, they not only need to be there... but they need to be replaced when installing a Y-pipe or transom shield.
    They are stupidly high priced.... so just bite the bullet and buy a pair of them.



 
OysterTrainer said:
Where would I get the correct transom shield (used?)?
Click to expand...
That's a tough one.

Look for one from a smaller V-8 powered boat. Smaller boats are not as likely to have been moored, so there's less chance of corrosion issues.
You'll want a 280, 275 or 285 shield w/ the double reliefs.

Be prepared to pay quite a bit for one.

 
thanks for all the info.
you have been a great help.
at this point I may put my 350 chevy mercruiser in this boat,shanging transom wood anyway.
sounds like that would be cheaper, unless I find a transom shield.
probably I will have a crap-load of AQ130 & AQ200 parts for sale/trade.

OT out
 
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