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Winterizing a boat - Need Huge Help

1.... Was told that the engine is the same as a car, and nothing will happen. But i guess the person knew as much as i.

2.... Then i found out that the engine cools with fresh water.

3.... I thought that i wont be able to winterise and be more screwed than i am now. Will try to do work this weekend temp will be +25 till Monday with full Sun no clouds.
1... as a general rule, you'll want to consult only those with real Marine experience.
The engine is indeed an automotive engine that has been modified for Marine use. The differences are subtle, but none-the-less, are different in many respects!

2.... over the years the cooling types have taken on a "misnomer" meaning....., so to speak.
Fresh Water Cooled is often confused with both River/Lake water cooling (aka "open" or "raw water" cooled) and is sometimes used to describe the "Closed Cooling" system (aka heat exchanger and ethylene glycol as do our car/truck engines)!
Basically (and to avoid confusion), we want to used the terms: Closed Cooling system and/or Open or Raw Water system.
Apples/Oranges!

3.... do what you can to drain any residual water from the engine and exhaust system. These will be all low points where water may collect and remain.

While I don't believe in over-hauling a previously "raw water" cooled engine (especially a salt water engine), it may be worth saving the engine components.
Keep in mind that you're only a few dollars away from good automotive cores that have been E/G cooled their entire life.


Wow, thought I was the only person on the planet that believed fogging a 4 stroke for short layups wasn't necessary.
Woodie, fogging may not be absolutely necessary...., so I agree with you on that premise!
But what if this boat were to not make it to the water the following season????
It is so easy to fog one, and fogging does offer additional cylinder wall protection......, If/When Done Correctly!


......... The usual Spring threads on cracked blocks I suspect are due to lack of knowledge or lazy practices and oversights.
Yep! All Winterizing looks perfect in the Fall...... it's Spring Time when we learn just how well it had been done $$$$$$$$$$$$!


I'd suggest if you want to over-haul one..... or over-haul this current engine.........., that you start a new thread on the topic.
There are some simple Do's and Don'ts that will be critical.

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If all who are reading this are on the fence about fogging your engine, Just add some [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]EZ Store EZ Start[/FONT] to your fuel tank and it will do the job.
 
kghost
Re: Winterizing a boat - Need Help
Not sure what year your boat is but here is my instructions, This is for you only due to your situation!!!! (NON RUNNING MOTOR)
My boat is a 2000 MAXUM 2300 SC, 5.7L 250 HP, Alpa One

Thanks Connor1
 
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kghost

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Re: Winterizing a boat - Need Huge Help[/h]
Not sure what year your boat is but here is my instructions, This is for you only due to your situation!!!! (NON RUNNING MOTOR)


My boat is a 2000 MAXUM 2300 SC, 5.7L 250 HP, Alpa One

Thanks Connor1​
 
Rick, I know what you mean about the boat being layed up longer than anticipated but that would be unforeseen circumstances and should then be revisited. We also couldn't expect that the fuel stabilizer we put into the fuel tank would keep the fuel in good shape for two years or that the batteries would be ok after that long unattended. Though we as professionals are expected to perform to a certain standard, there is also an onus on the owner to do due diligence and advise if circumstances have changed. You just can't put something to bed for years and expect that all will be fine after being neglected for so long, even if the engine did get fogged.
 
I don't disagree with the dry block winterizing method, just not my prefference. I do disagree however with leaving the drain plugs out as mentioned though. It's the one sure way of rusting out the threads. We have a big player up here that does just that; pull plugs, drain block, walk away and put the plugs back in the spring. They have so many boats to do that it's basically the only way they can get to everybody in time. They chase threads and replace blocks every spring. I say hire more people!

So here's a question that I'm surprised no one has brought up about two stroke fogging; if the oil/lubricant is already in the fuel, why the need to fog? And if the lubricant in the fuel isn't enough, why is there no need to fog a diesel?
 
Two stroke oil in gas is not enough to coat the bearings. The oil goes into solution with the gas and gravity causes all the oil to end up at the bottom of the power head. The fogging agent will stick to the bearings as it is typically sprayed through the carbs but it als does not go into the same salution as oil does even when used on efi systems. That is how I view the use of fogging. As far as desiel goes they are basically the same components as a four stroke.....jmho
 
Rick, I know what you mean about the boat being layed up longer than anticipated but that would be unforeseen circumstances and should then be revisited. We also couldn't expect that the fuel stabilizer we put into the fuel tank would keep the fuel in good shape for two years or that the batteries would be ok after that long unattended. Though we as professionals are expected to perform to a certain standard, there is also an onus on the owner to do due diligence and advise if circumstances have changed. You just can't put something to bed for years and expect that all will be fine after being neglected for so long, even if the engine did get fogged.
Woodie, I don't dissagree with you on this.... the ultimate onus and due diligence is on the owner! And yes..... re-visit if necessary.
However, we all know how that goes when it's out of our hands.

If something is being put to bed for years, it best be protected with Cosmoline, or an equivilant.

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Thanks Kg. I was likening it to a diesel engine where the lubricating froperties of the fuel negates the need to fog. +1 Rick. I think there is a misperception with boat owners that when it's winterized you're good for how ever long it's layed up, even if you're confident it's done right (fogged etc). I really do try to educate everyone I deal with, I think you can get a lot more money out of an educated customer than one who knows nothing. After the educational session, I also walk away with Kghost`s thought; "Pay me now or pay me big later"
 
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