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Winter maintenance for so cal

R

Rscottdds

Regular Contributor
I have a new 383mpi and live in Santa Barbara where it never gets below freezing. I don’t use the boat much from November till about February or March. What should I do to maintain it? Should I start it every so often? It’s on a trailer in my driveway.

Robert
 
I'd add stabilizer to the fuel tank, change the oil and filter, check the zincs, and service the out drive and prop ...

make sure you store it with the drive down...
 
i wouldn't...if you are gonna run the engine, better off putting the engine under a load and running it up to operating temp...
 
Mark- What if you can't put the outdrive down because it will hit the asphalt (350 Mag). Is that the fault of the trailer?
I find soft ground and dig a hole for the lube pump when I change the oil. I use trailer clips to take the pressure off.
 
I would be inclined to say the cause would be the selection of that specific trailer...

I'd be inclined to use a set of ramps (vs dig a hole) -

The reason for lowering the drive is to remove the added tension on the bellows...they will last much longer if not stored under tension and out of the sun...
 
makomark said:
I would be inclined to say the cause would be the selection of that specific trailer...

I'd be inclined to use a set of ramps (vs dig a hole) -

The reason for lowering the drive is to remove the added tension on the bellows...they will last much longer if not stored under tension and out of the sun...
Click to expand...
I will add my opinion on outdrive up or down during storage ( with this case being in mild climate)
It really doesent matter if its up or down.
My 1987, which I have owned since 1995.
I live in the northeast, cold, long winter outdoor storage, I have stored outside with drive UP every year I have owned it.
Not one issue or shortening life of bellows. Also, boat ia kept in fresh water all summer, not on trailer.

So Up or Down is a personal decision.
I dont believe it matters either way.
 
It’s probably obvious, but do you have the tongue Jack turned all the way down…lowering the hitch very close to the ground.
that will gain you height at the stern of the boat.
 
Edchris177 said:
It’s probably obvious, but do you have the tongue Jack turned all the way down…lowering the hitch very close to the ground.
that will gain you height at the stern of the boat.
Click to expand...
Assuming the cover is 100% waterproof, otherwise water might not collect in the bilge.
 
I'll add an oil change before you put it up and another when you recommission. Oil is the absolute cheapest insurance you can buy for your marine engine. I run straight SAE 30.
 
o2batsea said:
I'll add an oil change before you put it up and another when you recommission. Oil is the absolute cheapest insurance you can buy for your marine engine. I run straight SAE 30.
Click to expand...
Where do you find straight SAE 30 nowadays? My manual calls for it, but I’ve never been able to find it nowadays.
 
thanks, I’m up in Canada…W Marine closed their outlets here a couple years ago. My Volvo says 30W synthetic, I’m using the other other recommendation if 30W can’t be found.
 
You change the oil but once a year even when the engine has not run for hours and the reason is moisture
it will need to be rinsed with fresh water
service the boat with some gasoline maintenance product where fullness occurs in the tank
end in the end WD 40
 
There is no need to spend additional $$$ for engine oil as ""specified"" by the manufacturer.
If you were to go to most Merc dealers thsy sell Mercury 25-40 standard non syn oil.

If pricing is similar in Canada as I showed for Mobile one at Walmart in the USA, that is what I would suggest using.
I use this for all boats I service, 4, V6 and V8. Also I use Mobile One for my truck and motorcycle 0-20 truck and 20-50 Vtwin for bike.
 
Thanks everyone. Yes, 25-40 was what the service manual says, “if 30W is not available “, that’s what I’ve been using.
A bright yellow sticker on the engine says 30W Synthetic. I’m not convinced synthetic is of much value, these are rather old school carbed engines, originally built for industrial purpose.
A cousin in the US text me that he has a 5 gal pail of Delo 400-30W, (from some no longer running farm machine), which has both the C & S rating, so I’ll use that.
 
Synthetic is the best way to go.
Dino oil is only so good. Syn has better properties in many categories and is far superior than dino oil.

For engine break in it is good especially if its an older engine design platform and it contains Zink and other minerals that are good for break in.

Other wise syn is the way to go.

I have been running mobile one 15-50 in my 1987 since 1995.
And its the same basic cost as dino oil when purchased from walmart..
Whats more important is the oil filter.
I use Wix brand and that is what Napa gold filters are also.
Napa gold # 1061 for V8
 
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