Transmission and lower unit must be removed.
Watch for the shims underneath the transmission driven gear bearing retainer.
The pivot tube is somewhat of a friction fit within the Intermediate housing. This will give you the most resistance.
Use a small propane torch and heat the inside area within the exhaust bellows connecting port.
This will ever so slightly expand the aluminum, and will removal easier.
The pivot is rather soft, so you'll need to be very careful in that you do not damage either end of it.
I recommend using nothing harder than an Italian Bread Stick.
Both ends must form a critical seal; the beaded gasket at the top...... and the fat O-ring at the bottom.
Damage this, and you may breach suction!
The pivot tube will come out the bottom, and will release the reverse latch bearing sleeve, the two plastic washers, the SS washer, etc.
The Rev Latch unit can be removed from the fork without disassembling it.... same with the push rod.
It's tricky, but it will come from the fork without disassembly. Been there/done that, and many times.
I'd install a new caged needle bearing, the two seals, and the upper plastic bushing while at it.
The grease port for the caged needle bearing is Volvo Penta's attempt at humor for all owners, so be sure to hand pack the needles with grease.
The pivot tube needle bearing surface may be somewhat rusted, so place the pivot tube's best bearing surface forward.
Tip:
Reinstall the suspension fork and Intermediate housing prior to installing the transmission and lower unit onto it.
You can install the lower unit if you want to, but definitely leave the transmission off until the assembly has been installed onto the transom shield.
I'll buy dinner if this proves to not be easier.
Edit: all suspension forks of this style will interchange with each other....., but note that the 250 suspension fork has bronze inserts at each side.
(SEQ #14 here)
Some suggest that this fork is not quite as strong.... and I agree.
For V-8 power, I'd avoid the 250 suspension fork.
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