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Warning Alarm when starting engine

G

good-dog

Member
I have a 1994, 70 HP Johnson outboard. When I first start the motor I get a warning sound that indicates either the motor is not getting oil or it is overheating. The engine is definitely getting oil as there is lots of smoke coming out of the exhaust. To me it is not overheating as the water coming out of the cooling system on the side of the motor is not overly hot. (feels normal temperature) I have been told that it could be the heat sensor may have failed giving me a false warning. Is this common problem? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
 
Take a temp reading on the heads/block when the alarm goes off, of place you hand on the heads/block if you can hold you hand there with out burning its not overheating. does this alarm stay on from the time you start the enging or does it go off?
 
Disconnect the plug at the vro, crank motor if no alarm it's the oiling system, if not, reconnect the plug, and disconnect the brown wire going to the heat sensor on the block/head, (back of motor) if no alarm its the heat sensor.
 
When you turn on the key do you get a momentary " beep "-----------------------You may just have a defective buzzer.
 
The question is simple ----Is there a " beep " when the key is first turned on ??------------------When you supply exact details you can get exact answers !!
 
Ok
This is what I have found so far.
When the heat sensor is disconnected the alarm stays on. Done with engine running
When the VRO is disconnect the alarm stays on. Done with engine running

When I turn the key to the first position I get a very weak short sounding beep
 
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Start to disconnect wires on motor until buzzer goes out. Once it does, if possible trace wire to its respectible sensor. Buzzers seems ok as it is working... Most likely you end up tracing down one of the heat sensors it will be connected ultimately to. Replace it. -NB
 
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Assumed the tests of post #10 are properly done, the only thing connected to the tan wire that isn't tested is the power pack's SLOW input. So try disconnecting this.
But the horn's test beep shouldn't be "very weak short".
 
What the beeps mean
Overheat - loud steady tone
= Engine temp sensor - tan wire
No oil flow at VRO pump - rapid on–off sound
= VRO sensor – small plug with 3 or 4 wires
Low oil level in the remote tank - One beep every 20 to 40 seconds
= sensor in the remote tank – 2 black wires going to oil tank
The warning horn has 12 volts positive on it when the key is on, when a ground is applied the circuit is complete and the horn will sound. If you disconnect all the above, the horn should not sound, unless the wires are shorted to ground.

Test the warning horn and wiring.
The easiest test is the grounding of the tan over-heat temp switch wire to the engine block. To do this, unplug the tan wire, turn the key on, motor not running, and use a jumper wire to ground the tan wire going to the harness (not the sensor tan wire) and listens for the warning horn.
It should be a loud steady tone.
If the warning horn does not sound, the horn is bad or the wire is open (wire going to the horn from the engine). Remember this is a ground wire to the horn,
shorted = horn on,
open = no horn.
 
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Ok thanks everyone

Going to start to replace the warning horn as it does not have a strong sound when the key is first turned on
well let you know how it turns out
 
Ok, I replaced warning horn I now have a clear strong sound after I turn the key on the first position.

While running motor I still have a over heat alarm sounding ,dissconected the heat sensor and the alarm still sounding
Have a good stream of water coming out side of motor
Ran motor a little longer and maybe it is over heating as the engine got too hot to touch, but why did the alarm not stop sounding when the sensor was disconected.

Now what do you suggeest
 
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You have to be very exact in your terminology ------------------What do you mean with ------" why did the alarm not go off when the sensor was disconnected "-------------You should use terms like the alarm sounded or did not sound.---Sorry, but some terms can be mistaken in meaning.
 
Ok your right
The alarm did sound when motor was running
When the heat sensor was disconected when the motor was running, the alarm continued to sound
 
Here is a thought When I first turn the key to the first position should there be a momentary beep or a steady alarm sound. Mine is a steady alarm sound
 
You should hear a loud Chirp on the newer style horns when first turned on to let you know your alarm works, if it has a continous alarm in the accessory position then you have a ground, you are either grounded at one of your sensor tan wires or could be your Ignitions switch is bad
 
Hello
Went away for the weekend,will try to look at problem tomorral
So now I have to reslove the steady alarm sound when the key is first turn on
I know the alarm sound continues when the heat sensor is disconnected
What other test should I do to pinpoint problem
thanks
 
Please disconnect all three connectors at the same time, and turn on key.
Overheat connector-
VRO pump connector picture 1230- See the tan wire has 3 or 4 wires
Oil tank connector picture 1232 - See the tan wire- only one
These THREE things make the warning horn sound.
Is the horn still on?

Example that I seen, a guy puts in a stereo, puts in a rear speaker with 3 inch screws, one screw hits the 2 black wires going to the remote oil tank – shorting the wires together = Horn on steady when key is on, the engine and stereo are NOT overheating. Remove the screw and problem went away.

Please re-read post #14 the first part anyway - what the beeps mean, this is what you need to check, grounded wires tan - all three above items. At the engine – oil tank – wires from engine to remote controls – wires in the remote around the horn or key switch.
The VRO switch or tank switch could be bad = shorted – you will get a steady tone = no beeps = bad switch.

Summary
Please disconnect all three connectors at the same time, and turn on key.
Overheat connector- VRO pump connector- Oil tank connector
These THREE things make the warning horn sound.
Is the horn still on?
 

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Hi Greg

Thanks for your help,just been able to get back at it today.

As soon as I disconect the tan wire to the oil tank, the alarm sound stops.
On the oil tank there is only two wires a black and a tan, that runs up to the motor which goes to a large rubber type plug (is that a fuse)

I disconected the tan wire passed that point.

Is there a test I can do down at the oil tank switch or should I test somthing else
 
I did a continuity test, an it read that it is a closed circuit, does that mean that the switch on the oil tank is bad.
Yes or the black wire is shorted to ground.
You are doing good, the black wire that attaches to the tan wire could be shorted, follow it from the connector through the bottom of the engine look for anything that could cut it – Hose clamps - till it comes out. The rubber grommet could be in wrong cutting the wire, follow it all the way to the tank, every inch – anything cutting it? If the wire is OK the tank sensor must be shorted.
You could cut the 2 black wires about 6 to 8 inches from the tank, re-connect the tan/black connector, if the horn sounds the wire is shorted, if the horn does not sound the problem is in the tank. Good luck!
See the pictures, my tank has 2 black wire, looks like an black electric cord.
Clean the tank out - I have seen water in them and dirt!​
 

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I have a black wire and a tan wire that runs from the oil tank sensor all the way to the motor. I cannot really go over the wires for any cuts as they are both covered in a secondary plastic/rubber covering. When I did the continuity test I just did it at the motor end on the black and tan wire which went back to the oil tank sensor. My thinking is if the continuity test read a closed circuit then neither wire would be shorting out. The only thing I think I can do is to cut the two wires 8 inches away from the sensor oil tank and splice in 2 new wires and feed them up to the wires on the motor. If it still gives me an alarm then that must mean that the oil tank sensor/switch is bad. Also if I did a continuity test at the cut wires on the oil tank sensor and I still get a closed circuit then this would prove that the sensor is faulty.

We are sure that the circuit should be a open one when doing a continuity test, correct??

Do you agree?? Thoughts?? Does anyone else have any experience with a faulty tank sensor??

Thanks,

Pete
 
You found your problem the oil tank sensor. Just cut the 2 wires at the tank, test the 2 wires going into the tank closed/continuity = bad. Turn the key on with the wires cut the horn should be off. There is another thread with your problem OIL TANK SENSOR - he even has pictures of the float assembly, his shows continuity too. Sensor is bad. You found your problem - fix the tank, then put the wires back together, your done.
 
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