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VP 270 F/W Cover corrorsion on snout

J

jcampbell

Regular Contributor
I just did the PDS bearing and bearing crosses etc thanks to the help of the wonder folks on the forum

Cause of the crap that was sitting in the bellows it ate away at the bottom part of the snout, the worse part is about 3/4 to 1" away from the lip the bellows slips on at the top where there is no rot is about 1/4" to 1/2" before it hits the bellows lip so its not too awful bad.

I was wondering i have some quick steel stuff that you mold like putty and put it on and it hardens to steel strength, i was wondering if that stuff is ok to use or if i should use something else cause of the possibility of galvanic corrosion or whatever its called . Or if i should just leave it alone? or seal it with some marine silicone sealant??

Was wondering before i slip the trans on. (damn rain lol)
 
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Post a few images for us.

If the bellows snout is good from the bead groove FWD, then there is little issue here.
In other words.... if this corrosion is within the captive Bellows area...... there is no issue!

BTW, these are not big sellers.... the dang things don't break, and they don't wear out.
I'm hard pressed to get $150 for one.
I have several real good ones here that I'd let go cheaply.
(need drug money and boat money :D)

I am right below you in Portland.
 
Sorry i dont have a photo of a clean snout, almost dont want to share this picture.

you can kinda see it on the bottom part of it. Like i said its on the outer edge, maybe about 3/4" or so from the bead aft is clean metal and from the bead fwd is nothing wrong at all.

SDC10853.jpg


Kinda looks like the result of a bad nights drinking or maybe good nights drinking :rolleyes:
 
It seems obvious that water has entered the drive bellows. In addition to repairing the snout, you may need new u-joints...maybe even a new PDS bearing. If the bellows was not cracked/perforated, the water may have found its way in through a perforated snout, in which case you will need a new (to you) flyqheel cover (bellhousing).

Also, it seems to me that the raw water hose connector in the outdrive needs to be replaced. I see in the picture a lot of corrosion between the rubber hose and the connector.
 
You need a cable also and not some low budget 33c, a 33c "supreme" as it's sitting in the water all the time. That black cable isn't going to make much longer.
 
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Yep, ditto all acounts here.... new shift cable, new water neck fitting, etc.
You may as well since you are in this close.

Also note where you place the band clamp "worm" drive screws.
If clocked wrong (position re; 12:00, 2:00, 6:00 O'clock, etc.) the worm drive can chafe one of the rubber components.
Take particular note when re-assembling this.
NOTE: The OEM bellows clamps are superior to the clamps that come with a Sierra Bellows....
Just an FYI on that! (they won't tug on the rubber as they are being tightened)

As for the Flywheel Cover bellows "snout"........ I'd say that several drunken sailors contributed to that mess! :D

I take it as if this is a "Before" picture?????
Clean it up and see if the integrity of the aluminum has been compromised.
As Eduardo suggests, see if the aluminum has any pin holes that may have breached a good barrier against holding water out.
Again, anything AFT of where the bellows "Bead" makes the seal my not be an issue.

May we assume that you are replacing the U-joint bearing crosses AND the PDS bearing, as well as bellows?

.
 
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Yes,

You guys helped me repair this one as as well as 1stboat in fact some of our threads got crossed into each other, so everything is ready to piece back together, i just didnt know what to do about the corrosion if anything.

Here is a picture of the top of the snout

SDC10867.jpg


This angle shows the worst of it, again fron that rot to the bellows lip is about 3/4 to 1" metal

SDC10868.jpg


Bottom edge of same shot

SDC10870.jpg


The new bearing crosses installed in the trans

SDC10871.jpg



I do plan to replace the shift cable it has seen better days, i was banking on 1 more season out of it, since i dont store my boat in water, i average about then 40hrs a season engine run time, i will do it when i do the cooling system work through and new exhaust manifold.
 
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Since I don't have any O/H valve casings, got a zillion 130/170, I'd be buying one of Rick's and putting it on, 2-4 hours tops. I know I'd be sleeping better at night knowing my driveline is safe. That hose clamp on the water nipple is installed wrong, it should be on the other side with the head pointed down!!
 
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Unfortunatly i dont have a way of removing the engine. Being a cantilever hung if i remove the bolts the engine goes crashing forward. What i planned to do was take it to the lake and then loosen the bellows when i got back to see if it was still dry inside. If dry i will use it, since i dont boat much. If i can build an overhead lift thing i might remove the engine this winter and go through the cooling system, oil pan etc...

Yes i did cath that the screw was in wrong place i will move it prior to bellows install.
 
You've shown us some photos of the AFT and Upper side of the snout....
How about some photos of the under-side where the groove may be compromised?

You may not know this, but originally the snout protruded further AFT on the bottom to prevent bellows "collapse" when the drive is fully UP!
Here is what this would have looked like!
Notice where the bead groove is!

!BuCTYL!Bmk~$(KGrHqIOKkIEvOEh1-4hBL-pGue4Pg~~_12.JPG


Since much of yours is corroded away, if may lead you to think that the damage prevents useage.
So the question becomes; did the damage extend FWD enough to compromise the "groove" for the rubber bead?
Is your bead still there/still good?

If still good....., button it up, and go boating! :)
 
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If the bead groove is good put there is a pinhole forward of the bead, he should either weld the pinhole or replace the flywheel cover. Personally, I would replace the flywheel cover and have peace of mind...
 
I have some pics for some reason the pc isn't reading the memory card.

Anyway the worst part of the rot right around the water tube is right around 3/4 to 7/8" good unbreached metal before it hits the corosion on the edge.
I slipped the bellows on and it locked into the groove and was kinda snug to get off. From what i seen i didnt notice and pinhole leaks i even had water flowing on top of it, even though it no way to test it would need to be submerged. With how thick the metal is i doubt a pinhole leak but i wouldn't rule it out.

I took a picture of the inside with the bellows on

Unfortunately couldn't get a underneath shot without removing the exhaust bellows
 
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el_pescador said:
................... Personally, I would replace the flywheel cover and have peace of mind...
Click to expand...
I think I would also.

But as you said, you could button it up, run it, and take a peek later on.
Just don't risk this if in salt water. You'll play hell getting the salt water out of your new stuff!

.
 
Got the memory card to read finally here is a picture


SDC10880.jpg


SDC10879.jpg


I'll go ahead and try it at a lake and see if it breaches at all, if it appears dry after a day of fishin i'll run it for the season then pull the engine during the winter and replace it, as well as the shift cables and the exhaust manifold and clean/re-seal the fresh water cooling system. Im going to get a trailering bracket off ebay for it that might help lighten the load a bit.

Oh and the new bellows are VP with the nice bands that dont chew into the rubber. I found them for cheaper then the sierra brand.
 
From what I can see, you are well into the groove (and no... that's not a 60's phrase :D ).

If so, I'd remove the belows one last time and rasp or file down any sharp edges on the snout!
Then just don't raise the drive up more than 50% or so.
You'll be OK.

And to all reading.... FYI: Extend the life of your bellows by storing your drives fully DOWN and steering straight forward. ;)
.
 
RicardoMarine said:
From what I can see, you are well into the groove (and no... that's not a 60's phrase :D ).

If so, I'd remove the belows one last time and rasp or file down any sharp edges on the snout!
Then just don't raise the drive up more than 50% or so.
You'll be OK.

And to all reading.... FYI: Extend the life of your bellows by storing your drives fully DOWN and steering straight forward. ;)
.
Click to expand...


Yes what he Rick said. Down and forward

My old one happen to have a rot spot on it near the one of the internal springs in the bellows, i didn't catch it my last trip out in the boat in august was saltwater and if filled in the bellows with salt water with out any indication of a breach, no odd noises or grinding or squealing. Found the hole this spring and ordered a new bellows took the old one off and that puke came out a mix of old greases and salt and some mystery goo. I pulled the seal to see if it breached the bearing and sure enough same stuff inside after much convincing from rick, headache, ruined pair of vise-grips and 20 bucks or so in parts i pulled the PDS out and found the bearing was on its way out, balls were getting rusted, hard to spin. All this work to the tune of a ~$200 price tag for parts. Thats including, new bellows, bearing crosses, new water snout with bead gasket, orings, pds seal, pds bearing, tools, grease etc..

Watching kids reel in a lake trout or father getting pinched by a crab - Priceless:)
 
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