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Volvo Penta AQ131D No Spark wonbt start

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wayne4123

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"My AQ131D volvo penta won&#39

"My AQ131D volvo penta won't start, no spark at plugs. I have installed new spark plug wires, new plugs last year and they look to be in good shape, new condenser, new distributor cap, rebuilt carb last year also, points and rotor are in excellent condition, battery is fully charged but I get no spark at the plugs. I have checked continuity from the battery to the coil to the distributor and all checks out good. When I turn the key the engine turns over fine, gas to carb. good but no spark at all. Boat was running fine in the fall, I winterized it by draining the water system etc. and sprayed cleaner in the carb but now am not getting any spark to the plugs. Any suggestions out there?"
 
"You may have a defective coil

"You may have a defective coil. If you have a spare one, replace it and see what happens.

Check also for continuity between the (-) of the coil and ground to make sure the points are doing their job. For this, turn the boat battery power off. Afterwards, use a multimeter with alligator clips, set the reading to ohms, then connect one lead to the black wire that goes to the (-) of the coil (remove the wire from the coil first) and the other to ground, then turn the engine slowly clockwise with a socket wrench in the crankshaft pulley bolt while watching the multimeter. The readings should go from open circuit (infinite ohms) when the points are open to closed circuit (zero ohms) when the points are closed.

Have you considered upgrading from points and condenser to electronic ignition? It is an inexpensive upgrade and you most likely will be pleased with the results. Search the forum for the terms <font color=""ff0000"">Pertronix 2842</font> and <font color=""0000ff"">Hot Spark</font>."
 
I don't have a spare coil

I don't have a spare coil and all marinas around here are closed today. Any idea how to check the coil to make sure it is not defective? I have checked the continuity between the (-) of the coil and ground as you suggested and all is okay.
 
"What I would do is:

1)

"What I would do is:

1) Turn the ignition key on, then measure between the (+) of the coil and ground with a volt meter. You should get 12V. If not, you will have to check why there is no voltage arriving tot he coil (kill switch, loose connection, etc).

2) If you get 12V at the coil, remove the ignition lead from the middle of the distributor while leaving it connected to the coil, then put the lead about 1/4" to 1/2" from ground and crank the engine. If you see spark, the coil is OK.

3) You can also test the coil this way:

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/218514.shtml"
 
I have tested the coil as you

I have tested the coil as you suggested. I get an intermittent spark when removed from dist. cap and held to ground but as soon as I place the ignition lead back on the dist. cap I get no spark to the plugs. Any other suggestions?
 
Your next step is to check the

Your next step is to check the rotor and cap. All the details you gave indicate that either of them (or both) is/are defective.
 
"Once saw a distributor where

"Once saw a distributor where the points weren't tightened down and no spark happened, also another one where the "rubbing block" on the points had worn down to where there was no spark.
In both cases, the points themselves looked OK.
(in the second case the fussy newbe DIY cleaned "all that greasy junk" off the dist lobes before reassembly with new points...dry.)"
 
"Robert, he seems to be gettin

"Robert, he seems to be getting spark from the coil lead but there is no spark at the plugs. It sounds like the rotor is defective (or not installed) or the carbon contact in the distributor is stuck and not making contact with the rotor."
 
"I replaced the rotor and it b

"I replaced the rotor and it backfired, we put in new points and regapped and tried starting it again and the engine is not firing."
 
"Wayne, if the engine backfire

"Wayne, if the engine backfires then it is getting spark, at least occasionally. That is good news.

You may want to try hotwiring the (+) terminal of the coil from the battery + and see if it starts. If it does, you will have to remove the jumper to stop it."
 
"How are the cap and the rotor

"How are the cap and the rotor? It is not uncommon for the cap carbon contact to get stuck or even break or fall. Also, don't count on the coil being good, you may want to use another one and test. If no change, then you have a good spare that you should always carry onboard anyway."
 
"I got a new ignition coil and

"I got a new ignition coil and installed it. I got one chug then nothing and the negative battery cable started to smoke. I'm getting really frustrated. So far I have replaced rotor, distributor cap, & points,changed spark plugs, spark plug wires and rebuilt carb last year. What's left?"
 
"How is your coil wired? There

"How is your coil wired? There should be two wires on the (-): a grey wire going to the tachometer, and a black one going to the points or electronic ignition module. On the (+) side there should be a purple wire coming from the ignition switch, then another purple wire going to the alternator (note, this last wire may have been removed if the original SEV Marchal or Valeo or Paris Rhone alternator was replaced with a single pole alternator); and also a red wire if you have electronic ignition."
 
I went to check how my coil wa

I went to check how my coil was wired (only have one wire on each side ( + & - ) but thought I'd give it another go. I must have flooded it this morning because it started right up and is running great. Have tried it a few more times to make sure it wasn't just a fluke. Can't thank you enough for all your help. I learned a lot from all your advice.
Wayne
 
"Well, got the boat in the wat

"Well, got the boat in the water yesterday. Went out this afternoon, turned the key and NOTHING. No sound, no nothing. The battery is fully charged and terminals are clean.???????????????"
 
"I would check:

1) Tha

"I would check:

1) That the battery switch is turned on (yeah, it seems obvious, but it won't be the first time someone forgets to turn it on...even me)

2) That the thermal overload fuse is not tripped.

3) That the neutral safety switch in the control box is not acting up or it is engaged because the control is not in neutral.

4) That the starting relay (installed by the thermal overload switch) is not kaput or the wiring is disconnected.

5) That there is a good ground between the engine block and the (-) of the battery)."
 
El P.
I have a AQ131 and am

El P.
I have a AQ131 and am wondering if I test the spark plug wires with a multimeter for ohms. Should they not have continuity. thanks
 
I have mounted a clear hose on

I have mounted a clear hose on the connection from the outdrive to the copper pipe to see if I was getting air in the system. With the hose hooked on the ears and running water to the system while the motor is running should thet be a solid stream of water or should it just be flowing at a moderate rate. I guess my question is if the motor is running should that hose be completely full. Thanks for your help.
 
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