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Volvo Penta AQ 280 prop rotation

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swiveltung

Member
My VP 280 has a prop marked LH on it. My previous boat with the 280 also had LH prop. (single engine boats) Is this "standard" rotation or "counter"?
On line help from a prop seller said that "LH is Counter"... are all 280's set up counter on single engine applications ???? Trying to buy a new prop but sellers specify them as Counter or Standard rather than RH or LH.
 
The 280 like almost all Volvos can use either LH or RH Just by switching the shift rod under the cover on the drive.Not sure of the motor but the smaller Volvos should use the Volvo props. They just work better. A friend asked me to check his boat out as it wasn't running right. Checked everything and then noticed a prop on the ground. He said he just changed it and we put the old back on and it ran like it used to. Seems the replacement was a cheap aftermarket and it just didn't work right. I have a SS 19p was on a 280 either lh or rh. If interedted PM me.
 
el_pescador said:
LH, or "left hand" is the standard prop on VP AQ280. If you always had a LH installed, then consider sticking to LH.
Click to expand...

My boat has a AQ 200 305 chevy engine. 280 outdrive with the long (17) spline prop. Currently has a 15 x 19 prop and only gets to about 3800/3900 rpm. Way over pitched. Any idea how much revs I get per inch of reduced pitch? I have a nice 16 x 17, but not sure if that will gain me much..? I'm thinking 15 x 17 or even 15 x 15...? what do you guys think?
 
swiveltung said:
My VP 280 has a prop marked LH on it. My previous boat with the 280 also had LH prop. (single engine boats) Is this "standard" rotation or "counter"?
On line help from a prop seller said that "LH is Counter"... are all 280's set up counter on single engine applications ???? Trying to buy a new prop but sellers specify them as Counter or Standard rather than RH or LH.
Click to expand...
The good news is, you can use either hand propeller on this drive.
The reason is that Volvo Penta's lower unit hypoid gear cut is designed to NOT have what would otherwise be a "drive" side or "coast" side to the gear cut. They are designed to carry the full load in either rotation direction.

The upper transmissioin gears and cone clutch don't care one way or the other.

As said, to change prop hands, it requires a simple change to the vertical shift rod just inside of the rear shift mechanism cover.
You may want to re-adjust everything to absolute neutral, but that too is fairly easy.

Here's the other part to this.
When running a LH prop, we're driving from the transmission's lower "driven" gear.
When driving from the lower driven gear, this places an up-lift on the transmision vertical shaft.
(this has to do with the steep spiral cut splines for the brass sliding sleeve)
There is a brass split ring keeper at the lower area of this shaft that "checks" this up-lift.
These brass keepers become expanded from the split ring, and will eventually let go.

Here is a transmission vertical shaft.
The keeper is the brass ring with the green arrow pointing to it.
(Volvo Penta calls this a wear washer)



(later drives went to a larger diameter vertical shaft and a stress proof steel keeper, and they have no issues with them)


If you have been running a LH prop for years and years, I can just about guarantee you that the OEM brass keeper is due for replacement.
You DO NOT want this part to fail..... trust me on this!

Conversely, when running a RH propeller, this shaft has a downward force applied to it, and the top nut takes the downward force load.
This does not let us off the hook for replacing it, however, because reversing still puts force against this part.

FYI.... I have and sell custom manufactured stress proof steel keepers, if interested.
(Volvo Penta does not offer these for this series drive)


The other thing is the trim fin/torque tab.
With the 280, 290 and SP drives, the trim fin/torque tab seems to work just as welll with a LH prop as it does with a RH prop.

This is not true of the 250/270/275 style trim fins.
These fins offset prop torque best with a LH propeller.



I hope that this helps you.



.
 
Last edited:
Wow, great info. Actually I havent had this boat that long, it was a fresh water "garage queen". Now you have me worried! I suppose it's a major deal getting at that shaft assembly...? If I change props, I may just go to the right hand type. With the minimal time in Reverse that sounds like it would be safer way to go. I looked up in the manual and the AQ200 is specified as only 4400 rpm max (AQ280 5200 rpm) So my prop's not off as far as I thought.

If I go to a RH prop, and change the lever rod in teh 280 housing... will my helm control be correct without reversing it?
 
Yes only change is in under the housing. Not sure but the 16X17 is about the same as the 15X19 Try the 15X17 and you'll be in the right arena!
 
RicardoMarine said:
The good news is, you can use either hand propeller on this drive.
The reason is that Volvo Penta's lower unit hypoid gear cut is designed to NOT have what would otherwise be a "drive" side or "coast" side to the gear cut. They are designed to carry the full load in either rotation direction.

The upper transmissioin gears and cone clutch don't care one way or the other.

As said, to change prop hands, it requires a simple change to the vertical shift rod just inside of the rear shift mechanism cover.
You may want to re-adjust everything to absolute neutral, but that too is fairly easy.

Here's the other part to this.
When running a LH prop, we're driving from the transmission's lower "driven" gear.
When driving from the lower driven gear, this places an up-lift on the transmision vertical shaft.
(this has to do with the steep spiral cut splines for the brass sliding sleeve)
There is a brass split ring keeper at the lower area of this shaft that "checks" this up-lift.
These brass keepers become expanded from the split ring, and will eventually let go.

Here is a transmission vertical shaft.
The keeper is the brass ring with the green arrow pointing to it.
(Volvo Penta calls this a wear washer)



(later drives went to a larger diameter vertical shaft and a stress proof steel keeper, and they have no issues with them)


If you have been running a LH prop for years and years, I can just about guarantee you that the OEM brass keeper is due for replacement.
You DO NOT want this part to fail..... trust me on this!

Conversely, when running a RH propeller, this shaft has a downward force applied to it, and the top nut takes the downward force load.
This does not let us off the hook for replacing it, however, because reversing still puts force against this part.

FYI.... I have and sell custom manufactured stress proof steel keepers, if interested.
(Volvo Penta does not offer these for this series drive)


The other thing is the trim fin/torque tab.
With the 280, 290 and SP drives, the trim fin/torque tab seems to work just as welll with a LH prop as it does with a RH prop.

This is not true of the 250/270/275 style trim fins.
These fins offset prop torque best with a LH propeller.



I hope that this helps you.



.
Click to expand...

So let me get this straight. It looks like I will be buying a new prop anyway.... so if I go to RH rotation, I can avoid tearing the OD apart to check this ring... at lest for now...?
 
swiveltung said:
Now you have me worried!
I suppose it's a major deal getting at that shaft assembly...?
The transmission vertical shaft?

If I change props, I may just go to the right hand type. With the minimal time in Reverse that sounds like it would be safer way to go.
Like said....... the gear set could care less about which hand prop it will be turning.


I looked up in the manual and the AQ200 is specified as only 4400 rpm max (AQ280 5200 rpm) So my prop's not off as far as I thought.
I'm not aware of an AQ280 engine.
The AQ200 is a 2 brl carburetor 5.0L engine.

If I go to a RH prop, and change the lever rod in teh 280 housing... will my helm control be correct without reversing it?
This will not affect your helm control.

Make darn certain that your shift cable "Extends" at the drive, and pushes the "Gear Yoke" AFT during a FWD gear selection.
This will pull "Downward" on the vertical linkage arm when selecting FWD..... and no matter which side of the eccentric piston the vertical arm is attached to.
Some get this screwed up, and casue the gear yoke to pull FWD for a FWD gear selection. :mad:

I won't go into an explanation right now.... but it has to do with the coupling rod and lock brace.
Click to expand...

swiveltung said:
So let me get this straight. It looks like I will be buying a new prop anyway.... so if I go to RH rotation, I can avoid tearing the OD apart to check this ring... at lest for now...?
Click to expand...
Yes, at least for now.

NOTE: Along with the eventual expanding of the brass split ring keeper, an excessive vertical shaft Up/Down end play occurs.
This is not healthy for the transmission.





.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Yes, at least for now.

NOTE: Along with the eventual expanding of the brass split ring keeper, an excessive vertical shaft Up/Down end play occurs.
This is not healthy for the transmission.



.
Click to expand...

So..... how much should I expect to be charged if I have that ring replaced... or how many hours...?
 
swiveltung said:
So..... how much should I expect to be charged if I have that ring replaced... or how many hours...?
Click to expand...
FYI.... I offer this service via shipping to/from and back.
An AQ series transmission will ship in a USPS flat rate box for about $18.

The keeper itself is a piece of cake to install once the transmission is apart for a re-seal.
There's not even a charge for installing a new one...... just the cost of the part.

If interested, shoot me a PM with your email address.
 
Last edited:
RicardoMarine said:
The good news is, you can use either hand propeller on this drive.
The reason is that Volvo Penta's lower unit hypoid gear cut is designed to NOT have what would otherwise be a "drive" side or "coast" side to the gear cut. They are designed to carry the full load in either rotation direction.

The upper transmissioin gears and cone clutch don't care one way or the other.

As said, to change prop hands, it requires a simple change to the vertical shift rod just inside of the rear shift mechanism cover.
You may want to re-adjust everything to absolute neutral, but that too is fairly easy.

Here's the other part to this.
When running a LH prop, we're driving from the transmission's lower "driven" gear.
When driving from the lower driven gear, this places an up-lift on the transmision vertical shaft.
(this has to do with the steep spiral cut splines for the brass sliding sleeve)
There is a brass split ring keeper at the lower area of this shaft that "checks" this up-lift.
These brass keepers become expanded from the split ring, and will eventually let go.

Here is a transmission vertical shaft.
The keeper is the brass ring with the green arrow pointing to it.
(Volvo Penta calls this a wear washer)



(later drives went to a larger diameter vertical shaft and a stress proof steel keeper, and they have no issues with them)


If you have been running a LH prop for years and years, I can just about guarantee you that the OEM brass keeper is due for replacement.
You DO NOT want this part to fail..... trust me on this!

Conversely, when running a RH propeller, this shaft has a downward force applied to it, and the top nut takes the downward force load.
This does not let us off the hook for replacing it, however, because reversing still puts force against this part.

FYI.... I have and sell custom manufactured stress proof steel keepers, if interested.
(Volvo Penta does not offer these for this series drive)


The other thing is the trim fin/torque tab.
With the 280, 290 and SP drives, the trim fin/torque tab seems to work just as welll with a LH prop as it does with a RH prop.

This is not true of the 250/270/275 style trim fins.
These fins offset prop torque best with a LH propeller.



I hope that this helps you.



.
Click to expand...

I would be interested in that part. I have my 280 torn apart to reseal the whole thing. Plus I put an engine in that has a little more umph than the old 305 (boat anchor). Sounds like it would be a good idea.
Also on another note, when changing the prop rotation from standard left hand to right hand, how does that effect the rod running down to the locking paul.
I had a lot of trouble keeping the drive locked down in reverse last year. So I am paying particular attention to cleaning and lubricating the locking mechanism. Maybe change all the springs too.
But I dont understand what that rod from the shift linkage and spring loaded paul actually does. The rod that opens the latch when the stern drive is lifted is easy enough to understand. But the other rod and mechanism, I cant picture what its doing and how it works.
It seams to only operate in one direction, so......... if you change the prop rotation from standard, doesnt that effect the locking mechanism changing the linkage?
 
I guess I started this thread so should update. I changed over to a new RH prop last year and everything worked just fine. All I had to do was change the shift rod to the opposite side. I also changed the little trim tab to the same~ angle but on the opposite side.... if that makes sense...
 
Scotte45 said:
I would be interested in that part. I have my 280 torn apart to reseal the whole thing. Plus I put an engine in that has a little more umph than the old 305 (boat anchor). Sounds like it would be a good idea.
Also on another note, when changing the prop rotation from standard left hand to right hand, how does that effect the rod running down to the locking paul.
I had a lot of trouble keeping the drive locked down in reverse last year. So I am paying particular attention to cleaning and lubricating the locking mechanism. Maybe change all the springs too.
But I dont understand what that rod from the shift linkage and spring loaded paul actually does. The rod that opens the latch when the stern drive is lifted is easy enough to understand. But the other rod and mechanism, I cant picture what its doing and how it works.
It seams to only operate in one direction, so......... if you change the prop rotation from standard, doesnt that effect the locking mechanism changing the linkage?
Click to expand...
Did you ever find the answer on the the locking for reverse with a left hand drive?
 
Changing the vertical rod from one side t o the other per the instructions insures that the "rod from the shift linkage" always works the same w hen in reverse regardless of the prop rotation. If everything is properly adjusted per Volvo's instructions and the drive still kicks up than the tips on the part #5 ( below) are worn.... where they grab onto rod #4. The common knowledge way to replace #5 involves removing the drive, but I assure you that you can swap out this part while the boat is on the hard a nd the drive is still on the boat HOWEVER it is a PITA to do that. If the bellows ( especially the drive one) is more than 3 seasons old, it is best to pull the drive and install a new OEM bellows while you are at it. Part indicated a #5 is often available as NOS on ebay.
 

Attachments

  • shift adjustment.pdf
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sandkicker said:
Changing the vertical rod from one side t o the other per the instructions insures that the "rod from the shift linkage" always works the same w hen in reverse regardless of the prop rotation. If everything is properly adjusted per Volvo's instructions and the drive still kicks up than the tips on the part #5 ( below) are worn.... where they grab onto rod #4. The common knowledge way to replace #5 involves removing the drive, but I assure you that you can swap out this part while the boat is on the hard a nd the drive is still on the boat HOWEVER it is a PITA to do that. If the bellows ( especially the drive one) is more than 3 seasons old, it is best to pull the drive and install a new OEM bellows while you are at it. Part indicated a #5 is often available as NOS on ebay.
Click to expand...
Thank you Capt Bob! I bought my boat a month ago and the previous Captain had very recently changed to a duo prop. Not sure how many trips the drive has actually seen .. I have taken the boat on the water twice - just testing systems and this has been my observations:

1. I have been unable to use Reverse successfully without it kicking up
2. I removed the outdrive cover for the linkage
2a. The yoke currently rotates forward towards the transom when I go into forward
2b. The yoke rotates away from the transom when I go into reverse
2b1. With the current configuration, the retaining pawl rod (6) is travelling away from the retaining pawl!!
2b2. With the shift rod connected on the left side the system wont work?
WARNING : I am thinking here...
Seems as though I need to swap the shift rod back to the right side .. then
Swap my gear selection lever cable connection to push vs pull (or switch it to opposite throw) .. then
Then I would still be rotating the transmission lever in a counter clockwise direction when going into reverse
and yoke would be moving towards the transom which would move my pawl locking rod to the locking position

Can you please tell me how if I am "going in the right direction" here ???

another thing in reference to the manual : NOTE! The retaining pawl rod (6) is not permitted to have an axial play??. The rod just hangs in there without any cotterpin so isnt there going to be some movement ?? not sure
 
On a single prop ( and it should be the same as on a duo) the shift cable should extend out for FWD, i.e. yoke rotate AWAY from transom. This movement criteria insures that the retaining pawl rod pushes INTO the retaining latch when in REV. Re: axial play. I've always had some, no issue.
In order to do this, as you speculated, the cable at the HELM end needs changed to PUSH in FWD. Since your drive now goes into REV when in REV at the helm, you need to change the shift rod as well. Do this first and adjust per procedure in the attachment I sent.... if it still kicks up, then you need to replace #5. This is one of the least understood and most often F$#%ED thing on a 200 series drive and has caused more than one boat to be dumped by an owner. I found that adding a small thin OD S/S washer onto the end of the RA fitting under the cotter pin, "crisps" up the feeling of the shift engagement points as felt at the helm..... just make sure that the OD of this washer does not interfere with the shift cable extending all the way.
 
sandkicker said:
On a single prop ( and it should be the same as on a duo) the shift cable should extend out for FWD, i.e. yoke rotate AWAY from transom. This movement criteria insures that the retaining pawl rod pushes INTO the retaining latch when in REV. Re: axial play. I've always had some, no issue.
In order to do this, as you speculated, the cable at the HELM end needs changed to PUSH in FWD. Since your drive now goes into REV when in REV at the helm, you need to change the shift rod as well. Do this first and adjust per procedure in the attachment I sent.... if it still kicks up, then you need to replace #5. This is one of the least understood and most often F$#%ED thing on a 200 series drive and has caused more than one boat to be dumped by an owner. I found that adding a small thin OD S/S washer onto the end of the RA fitting under the cotter pin, "crisps" up the feeling of the shift engagement points as felt at the helm..... just make sure that the OD of this washer does not interfere with the shift cable extending all the way.
Click to expand...
Thank you Again - YOU ROCK.. This is just the knowledge and words of encouragement that I needed to move forward. I already have the shifter opened up and poised for the change over.

1. Switch over cable to left side by removing two 10mm for the cable locking plate
2. Switch over pawl rod to the right side
3. Switch the push pull direction on the shifting control
4. Line up everything in neutral ,connecting shift cable and pawl rod
5. Test gear shifting
6. Adjust for reverse locking yoke
7. Water test !!
 
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