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Volvo AQ255B/280 shifter diagram/photo or manual

K

KDRawlings

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Had a friend try to help me adjust the shifter to idle better and he spent hours disassembling the shifter assembly. Unfortunately, it looks like he didn't put it back together correctly.

It doesn't shift into gear until the throttle is too far forward and too high RPMs. I do not have a service manual so I cannot check how it is supposed to be assembled and adjusted. Is there an online manual that I can reference. We are trying to leave for a houseboat trip to Lake Powell on Sunday so I do not have enough time to take it to the mechanic as they are not open tomorrow.

Any help would save my trip!!!
 

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I would recommend that you NOT operate the boat if shifts are engaging at too high RPM. You will damage your drive...... particularly the sliding sleeve/cups and split ring wear washer if running LH prop.
This is NOT good!

Which make throttle/shift unit is this? Post a few photos!
 
1) Adjust idle in neutral with the throttle cable OFF...
2) Put shifter in neutral and adjust the end fitting of that cable at the engine so that it just slides onto the throttle arm.
3) THEN adjust the shifter... IF you don't have the factory manual, look at:
http://home.comcast.net/~rfierro/pwpimages/CheckAdj.JPG

reprinted from the Volvo shop manual..

(You will have to magnify the image with your browser to read it easily)

Also... often the washer on the shift cable where it attaches at the drive is missing. This is critical to remove excess play and insure precise shifts. Make sure the lock nut on the adjuster is there and tightened.
Mine has gotten elderly enough that I installed a second washer, one on each side of the shift plate, i.e., that part that the shift cable attaches to.
Also... make sure that the jacket of the cable is clamped (there is a clamp plate for this) at the point that it enters the drive.
 
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I'd still like to see the Throttle/Shift unit.

I fully agree with Bob.
And do same at the drive when setting up NEUTRAL!

NOTE: this only works if the Throttle/Shift unit cable connections are FIRST connected correctly!

Always, always, always set this up for NEUTRAL, and with an equal amount of CABLE "over-travel" in either direction.... FWD/REV engagement.
Essentially, you are splitting any shift cable "over-travel", yet maintaining Neutral when pulled back to center.

Try disconnecting the cable barrel at the bell crank at the drive.
Find the cable "over-travel" and divide this by making an adjustment (if necessary).
Re-connect, and do same for the vertical rod adjustment.... keeping in mind that the eccentric piston (the actual brass cylindrical shift unit)
must be in NEUTRAL (it will be "detent" loaded for neutral).
Again, adjust so that you divide any shift cable "over-travel", yet have a comfortable and relaxed Neutral.

.
 
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Here are some pictures of the shifter. My concern is that the cables are attached to the arm correctly. The left arm is the shifter. The right arm is the throttle. The problem is that the throttle engages too much before shifting.

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When in Normal mode, and when working correctly, gear engagement is fully achieved prior to ANY throttle movement and/or operation.

The round knob is pulled outward in order to access Throttle ONLY mode.
Give that a try and see if your cable are even connected to the correct levers.

Also, NEVER zip tie or clamp any cables close to the throttle/shift unit.... let these move freely!
 
I have already confirmed the the cables are connected to the correct arms. Pulling the round knob puts it into neutral and I can push the throttle forward and rev the engine.

The issue is that it does not shift into gear soon enough. From the back side view, the arm on the left puts it into gear. The right arm is the throttle.

As you can see from the pictures the adjustment on the shift cable is almost to the end. I guess that I could see if there is any adjustment back on the outdrive end.

Can anyone confirm that the cables and arms are correct?
 
My concern with the setup at the control end is that one lock nut is not locked and the other is apparently missing. Another issue to check is the "Fit" of the cable end to the control head arms. They should not be overly "sloppy". Usually there is a washer between the cotter pin and the control arm to prevent (limit) twist and hence slop in the controls. The other, more sinister possibility (I had this happen to me once), is that with age, the control wears, in particular the internal gear sectors ( the throttle moves the shift via gear teeth that mate when the button is pushed in.) The other possibility is the attachment of the shift arm to its shaft. I'd cycle the control and watch carefully exactly what happens and when at the control arms (engine off).
 
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