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Volvo AQ165 Engine help

mell860930

Member
I know that these engines are old and that the parts are scarce. I just got a boat that has dual aq165 with 250 outdrives. The motors burn/leak oil. I believe that there is more oil "blow by" than actually burning of the oil. But since they have been overhauled or anything i figured this winter i might have that done. I know that from other inline six cylinder engines that they get oil blow by near the valve cover and wondering if this is the same in the volvo engines. If so any idea of what needs to be done and where parts can be gotten. I figured id give both engines a top end over haul but wondering hwere to get the parts or kits? any help or information would be awsome as i am new to this engine and to this forum!!!
 
I know that these engines are old and that the parts are scarce. I just got a boat that has dual aq165 with 250 outdrives. The motors burn/leak oil...................... I figured id give both engines a top end over haul but wondering hwere to get the parts or kits?
Cut your losses now, and try to find suitable replacement engines.

The center to center dimension will likely not permit V-8's.... so that may be out of the question... but I suppose you could check.

The OHC 4 may be a good option... but you'll loose some hp.
You'd need the F/C's, exhaust components and the 2.15:1 lower units.

The 6 cylinder ratio was 1.89:1..... and does not usually work for anything other than the 6 cylinder engine.

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I am trying to not sink thousands into a repower like what you are talking about. They run fine now so i dont want to bag them at this point. Any engine that would bolt up in their spot without having to do crazy modifications?
 
I suppose the course of action would be:
1. leak down test all cylinders to determine where the issues are - whether it's mostly head/valve issues or piston rings.
2. If it's head, - inspect each exhaust manifold carefully as you remove them and the heads - if any issues found with manifolds, abort the project - it will be cheaper to repower than find those manifolds
If manifolds are mint, you could take the heads to a reliable machine shop
3. If it's the rings, pull the engines and evaluate- inspect all components to decide if they are worth investing in.


It doesn't have to be a lost cause, but you can go upside down financially on a setup like that with a few clicks of the mouse ordering parts.
 
here's the deal why I say the manifolds are a key point of inspection - that's the last price from when they were available:

856095
EXHAUST PIPE

$3,441.28 Unavailable
 
Ya but at the after market price its probably still easier to repower. Are there any other motors that would bolt up to the outdrives easiley? Like a chevy or ford or something or is it heavy modification needed?
 
Ya but at the after market price its probably still easier to repower. Are there any other motors that would bolt up to the outdrives easiley? Like a chevy or ford or something or is it heavy modification needed?
See explanation below.

What would be wrong with the exhaust manifolds it has been in fresh water its whole life never touched salt water at all?
See the following post.
it's a 40+ year old chunk of cast iron and the inside is unpainted
The typical piont of failure is at/near the rear elbow area.
Note that a bad exhaust manifold may damage an engine.


Are there any engines that go in its place easily (bolts right up)? Min. modification?
Mell, my little V/P biz mainly entails me working on the AQ series, at least for the most part.
I know what will interchange easily and what will not interchange easily.
I've done many of these similar changes over the years.

With the AQ series, we could basically install most any engine that the industry offers a Borg Warner pattern flywheel cover for.
The Borg Warner... slash... Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing takes the engine to the V/P drive system.... very common!

The issue becomes the exhaust..... and some of that can be made to work if up for the task.

The small 5.0L 5.8L Ford V-8, SBC Chevy V-8, Chevy 4.3 V-6... can all be made to work, and with OEM components.
The exhaust risers would need to be 3".... unless you are willing to change out the transom shields.
(this has to do with the limitations of the single relief transom shields found with the OHC 4s and the AQ 170s... but it can be made to work w/ the AQ 200/255B Y-pipe)

All transmissions are of the same gear reduction, so your transmissions and intermediate housings could be re-used.
The lower unit ratio changes, however, to a 1.61:1 after the correct shimming process has been done.

As I mentioned earlier, the existing center to center dimension must be close to 33", or the V-8's won't squeeze in there.
Your existing AQ 170 center to center dimension may be too tight for any of the SB V-8's.
This is why I suggested measuring this.... if this hull's beam is wide enough, V-8s may work w/ no mods to the hull's transom.
If not.... check mate, and you're back to either the 170s, or a pair of the OHC 4s!

You could certainly do what you are proposing to do with the 170's........ we're simply bringing some points up for you to consider.

**********************************

I'll leave you with these thoughts.
I have no idea how you aquired this boat, nor what you paid for it, nor what your budget may be:

Free boats are never free by the time you get one working again.
Boats are rarely investments, and are always expenses.
It's very easy to become up-side-down in terms of expense to value ratio.
Being up-side-down is not necessarily a bad thing..... we just use it up in the form of enjoyment (ask me how I know this).
If the above makes sense, don't worry about any resale value.... no one will EVER pay what you may think it is worth!
If you love boating and a project.... what better project could you have?
It's a boat.... you'll be away from land.... make the correct repairs... don't take short cuts... EVER and on ANYTHING!
You are far better off having an older Volvo Penta boat, than having many of the other older drive systems. (the AQ 170 being an acception..... i.e., refering to the engine, not necessarily the drive)

Does/will this boat suit your needs?
Have you checked the transom and stringer cores?
How much in love with this hull are you?
Don't fall in love without first considering all of the above.

Have fun.... we'll be here for you! :D

.
 
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This boat wasn’t free I bought it off ebay ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0Q...emZ140593435953QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT ). By no means is this going to by my last boat or anything this is to me a classic yacht. Very hard to find with a lot of had made pieces to it and details that you can't find now a days, From the mahogany wood to the classic look.* I understand like any classic it will require money which in most cases will never be made back.* But as for my other boat I invest for the sole purpose of my personal pleasure and for those who view it as a craft/hobby.* Now i am not saying that i am willing to go out and drop tens of thousands of dollars but do understand the idea and concept of a “money pit”.* But this to me i believe is worth keeping up.* This isn’t just any old boat to me it’s a classic piece of history.* Handmade not production machined only made for a few years and has a lot of history behind it.* The boat runs just fine now but the oil needs to be checked and topped off occasionally.* I just figured while i had her in dry dock and would be working on some small other things than i would try to rectify the oil consumption issue and try to renew her.* I plan on doing new exhaust bellows and what not and some additional work to the interior nothing extreme or pricey.* I just think that with the amount of research i have done and that these boats were very limited in production and the fact that so many people are devoted to these (there’s even a yacht club just for these boats* http://www.coronet.nu/default.asp) that it would be a nice cruiser to have for the family to spend weekends on and relax away from the hustle and bustle without spending 500k on a new yacht!!!* I am young but i guess* i like the idea and looks of the older yachts. I don’t necessarily see a problem with down grading to a 4 cylinder engine.* I know that i will lose hp or speed but this isn’t a speed boat i have a speed boat to do that with.* I didn’t want to dump tons of money in to the engines right now but open to ideas.* I think if this was a run of the mill boat or just your average boat i would tend to say it’s not worth it but i think in the long run it is worth it.* Still many of these in action and extremely high quality from what I’ve read.* Id be interested in your thoughts??* Also i appreciate you taking the time to respond to this thread!!!
 
Hey, you are very welcome! Isn't that what it's all about????

Mell, start by measuring the center to center dimension.
If this will allow for two small V-8s, that would certainly be the route to go, IMO.
The parts needed to make the change will be almost a wash between what an over-haul of those 6 cylinders will cost you.
Plus.... your performance will be greatly increased.

Unless of course, there is some value in keeping it original.... in which case you bite the bullet.
 
I looked up some of those adapter plates and they are like 800+ and id need two so the converting may cost roughly the same as rebuidling!!!!????
 
What adapter plates?
All needed is the appropriate V/P Flywheel Cover for the engine. (flywheel cover = bell housing in the auto world)
If going to an engine that was not normally found w/ Volvo Penta, then the Borg Warner flywheel cover is used with V/P's PDS adapter housing.

Any SBC engine can use the std SBC V/P flywheel cover with your transom shield.
That's the beauty of the AQ series.
images

00_1.JPG





While you can just barely see this, the white portion behind the red flywheel cover is the V/P PDS adapter housing.
The red flywheel cover itself is the Borg Warner style..... the adapter also uses the Borg Warner six bolt pattern.
This means that any engine that is Borg Warner capable, can be made to work with an AQ series drive.... (minus the exhaust issues).
9009ib2_20.jpeg


Holman Moody, Eaton, Donzi, and several others also manufactured an extended version of this adapter.... still using Borg Warner.
These placed the engine further FWD by 3-1/8".


.
 
OK so what I will do is do a compression test and leak down test first. Also I will measure the distance from each side to center and see what that is if that would accommodate for the v-8’s. Any suggestion on a good set of v-8’s without killing the bank??? Do you want to take a trip to Pennsylvania to work on this boat!!!!!It would be tons of fun I’m sure!!!! A lot of beer!!!!
 
Any ideas on getting two engines for this boat? I have looked around and see many available on craigslist and ebay but only see one have yet to see someone selling in twos and i cant seem to find two of the same engines for sale!!! seems like this is going to be tricky!!!
 
Ok i found two sets of engines one set is a ford v-8 i believe 351's and the other set is ford 302's. Any suggestions on which ones to go with and where do you get the bell housing so that these will bolt to my 250 drives? Would the 250 drives work or would i need to replace the drives as well?
 
Mell, the 5.0 and 5.8 fords were both used with the AQ series Volvo Pentas.
You'll find both the single pc "Flywheel Covers", and the 2 pc "Flywheel Covers" that use the Borg Warner/PDS adapter housing.
Either nets the same dimension from rear of engine to transom shield to transmission yoke.
Also..... either requires the bronze pilot nose bushing in the crankshaft since the PDS is single bearing...... very similar to the OHC 4's.
Either also use the Borg Warner drive coupler that bolts to the flywheel.
All standard parts that can be found if enough effort is put into it.


The 1 pc F/C looks like this:
12769.jpg


The 2 pc F/C will look like this one below (minus the mouting ears).
This is a Ford Borg Warner bolt pattern F/C for an I/B application, but is basically what you'll want since B/W is B/W all day long.
(again, minus the mouting ears).

FMWVDC70A.JPG


Here is a Borg Warner six bolt pattern PDS adapter housing that takes this to the AQ series transom shield and transmission drive shaft yoke.
(can't seem to find an image of one all by itself)
ACF17D7.gif


If you were to use the later 1 pc flywheel cover, it will likely be fine spline AFT side of the PDS (-vs- the earlier course splines).
Which means that you'd need to change to a fine spline female yoke.

.
 
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Will the 250 outdrives work with these engines or will they need to be replaced or regeared? Will the exhaust for the ford work like the volvo engines or will i need to do alot of work to change that? Are the 351's or the 302's easier to get parts for like one of the other and is there one that is better than the other?
 
Here.... put these on and read post # 11 again. :D


Foster_Grant_Reading_Glasses.jpg


Both the 5.0L and 5.8L should be easy to work on and purchase parts for.
 
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After putting those glasses on i was able to see it. If i read correctly the outdrive needs regeared. Where can the 1.61:1 gears be purchased?
 
After putting those glasses on i was able to see it. If i read correctly the outdrive needs regeared. Where can the 1.61:1 gears be purchased?
Re-Gearing is usually pretty expensive, and is usually cost ineffective when good used lower units can be picked up.
These rarely fail if they've been taken care of.
Gear set = approx $1,200....... bearings/seals = $XX......., set up time = approx $300-400 or so.

Also ricardo when are you comming out to do the work?;)
That wouldn't be the first time I've been offered this.
Hmmmmm, let me think about it! LOL

Many people in areas where there are no V/P mechanics, or where these shops simply don't want any AQ series work, or don't know how to work on the AQ series....., end up shipping the drives to me for this work.
I don't need the Intermediate housing..... so that part remains on the transom shield.

The transmissions will fit the USPS flat rate box.... $16 or so........, but the lowers end up going UPS, FedEX, DHL, or ???? ..... and is a tad bit more for shipping.
 
Ricardo, for the motors aq165a pistons and rings avail and also rods and bearings along with valve springs and what not??
Possibly these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2980...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20afab3d56)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483f9a99e9

Looks to me like a set of 4 @ $316 x's 2, plus 4 additional pistons to make a total of 12 pistons.......... that's $948 for 12 pistons.
Now add bearings, gaskets, and machine shop work..... and don't forget the look on their face when they hear the word Volvo... or worse yet, Volvo Penta!

Now add the cost of two new exhaust manifolds $$$$$ (avoiding the risk of a bad manifold ruining one or both of these fresh engines) and you're pretty much there.

There are no real issues with this particular engine, per 'se....... other than what it's going to require to bring them back into good health.
If this sounds OK to you, then go for it!
 
Thats not reassuring as i wont want to spend thousands but looks like eaither way i have to unless these exhaust manifolds end up being okay then i might be fine????

Just seems like tons of work to repower with different motors since different drives would be needed and they seem to be very expensive 1k+ for 280's from what i can see each??? any thoughts???i figured maybe some pistons rings and head job and thatd do her nice but not sure??
 
What drives would be needed for the use of the ford engines like a 270 or 280? Also someone said that i could do the chevy 305/350 and use the same drives that i have is that correct?
 
Any suggestions on what 4 cylinder motor to go with as i just dont see finacially to be able to do the complete replacement of motors and outdrives im thinking i can probably do a set of the 4cyl like you said and keep the outdrives and go from there. Is there any 4 cyl thats better or bigger than the other and that would be cheapest to get and hook up?
 
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