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Volvo AQ125a Solex 44 PA1 carb issue

J

jcampbell

Regular Contributor
I have a solex 44pa1 carb on an AQ125a the engine is a fresh rebuild and so is the carb. The boat runs fine at idle but when you accelerate it wants to die and sometimes backfire as a result of struggling and too much fuel going in. I do notice a flat spot with the carb. I was reading the factory manual and it said carburetors with main jet 165 and venturi jet 190 should have the spacer installed. with a gasket on either side.

So I took the two jets in question the venturi has jet 180 and the main jet is 155. Does this mean I need to remove the spacer with the restrictor on it and will it eliminate the flat spot. If not what position is that plate supposed to go. I assumed its with the arrow pointing towards the front of the engine and the wording up of course.

Anyone got any ideas I want to fish this weekend and don't want to have to idle to my fishing spot. Timing is fine and I have the pertronix kit installed.

Both the engine and the head are date stamped in 1983 or 1984
 
The timing advances properly going up to between 32 - 36 deg. I checked it all last night. Seems to matter what i do i get that hesitation in-between going from idle to high speed. If i richen it too much it just fouls the plugs and smokes black. To lean and it stalls. I think for the heck of it i might remove that plate tonight and see what happens it might not be letting in enough fuel due to smaller jets. My original carb had the bigger jets and i didn't think to swap them over when i did it. Im going to go with the weber kit but cant afford it yet i want to get the rest of my season done. I missed 3/4 of it already cause of the rebuild.
 
Yeah it streams pretty good coming out. I'm not sure how its adjusted though I kept it to where the rebuilder company I bought it from had it. It was set to where on the plate thing on the side of the carb its flush where the rod goes in and pushes the plunger. which makes the nut thing tight on the threads on the rod. If I loosen it will it allow more fuel to go in when I push on the throttle? Not much is spoken about that adjustment in the books.
 
Not much is mentioned about that D spacer online either. I will give it a go on taking it off and see what happens. I still have my eyebrows so we'll see. I have the factory manual as well as seloc manual. If anyone knows if the rod that pushes into the booster area is supposed to be flush with the carb or at an angle let me know. I can back the nut off and see if I get more fuel boost.
 
Its the older style I'm barely 1.5 turns out or smokes black soot. I got it through flying fish carburetors. http://flyingfishcarburetors.com/
 
Hard to say as no where does it mention high altitude jets. I'll double check my booster and remove the D plate and see what happens. If I idle it takes off good after the hesitation but you still can stall it. In gear with the load it wont make it through at all, it just stalls out. If it matters I haven't put my spark screen on yet.
 
I owe you a beer. You were spot on it was the accelerator jet adjustment. I screwed it all the way in and then backed it out while running on a garden hose. Got it to where it would run without wanting to stall. Took it to the lake and did the final adjustment of it still not 100% but I can fine tune it but it will go fast. And all went well until a freeze plug blew. The machine shop set them in and didn't whack them in so when I rebuilt them I gave them a good whack. Well while being towed in I looked at the freeze plug and the machine shop used back rtv silicone to seal them in. These are the disc design not the cups. They fit in somewhat loose then you whack them to seal. And if it was over pressured you would think the radiator cap would blow it out there only 4psi.
 
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