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Volvo 270 outdrive not shifting

J

JeffBfishes

New member
I have a volvo 270 outdrive that will not shift into forward when it has been running for awhile. If I take the motor out of gear and then try to resume going forward, the outdrive will not go into forward. It will go into reverse. I then have to turn the engine off and let everything cool down for 3-5 minutes and then I can be on my way again. After looking and reading, I see that there is a special bolt on the top of the gear housing that is used for filling the upper gear case with lubricant. I am not sure if this is my problem or not but, does anyone know what type of lubricant to use and how much to put in since there is no dipstick? Thanks, Jeff
 
You'll want to replace the dip stick so that you can check the oil level. The dip stick is the center-most fitting on the top cover.

Does it remain in gear until you let up on power?
Are you sure that you do not have a spun propeller hub?




Things that may cause the sliding sleeve to not engage:
  • Incorrect gear oil. See your OEM manual for this. (Single prop drive requires engine oil.... Duo Prop requires a GL 5.)
  • Some sliding sleeves/gear cups don't work well with synthetic gear oils. (the sleeve/cup may need to be carefully and mildly lapped in.)
  • Water intrusion on some occasions.
  • Burnished gear cup/sliding sleeve.
  • Debris between the sleeve/cup.
  • An issue with the shift mechanism and/or shift shoe.
  • A shift cable adjustment.... (is your helm shift unit capable of centering the cable when in absolute neutral posistion? IOW's, do you have equal cable travel (at the drive) in each direction?)
  • Loose shift cable clamp/bracket at the Intermediate housing!
  • Loose shift cable clamp/bracket at the helm unit!
With engine OFF:
You will want to remove the shift cover at the rear of the drive.
Then disconnect the cable "barrel fitting" from the bell crank.

Have someone shift the throttle/shift unit into both FWD and REV position as you manually shift the drive FWD/REV!
Do this one at a time (FWD.... then REV)
See if the cable is capable of meeting or exceeding this required travel!
 
Ricardo, Thanks for the reply. The drive stays in gear until I shift into neutral. I can run as long as I want until I take it out of gear. Then, I will have to wait a few minutes until it will shift back into forward. As for the dipstick, Yes I have the dipstick at the center of the outdrive cover. It is the "special hollow bolt" at the forward starboard position of the upper gearcase cover that has me puzzled. My manual has one sentence that says that this is used to add lubricant. I'm not sure what this is for since I can add oil from the dipstick or from the bottom of the lower unit. Once again, thanks for the reply. Jeff
 
Jeff, It just doesn't sound right to me!
When the sleeve/cup do not engage, it is generally the first/initial engagement. That is when the gear oil viscosity is heavier.
(you may need to understand the cone clutch system in order for that to make sense to you)

Please take my suggestion re; checking that the shifter unit, the cable, and the linkage AT THE DRIVE are all centered, and correctly installed.... this includes checking the cable brackets (both at shifter and at the Intermediate housing) as I mentioned earlier!

Sounds as though you have a Clymers or Seloc manual. Use those for packing material, or in the Corn Field outhouse, and pick yourself up an OEM manual.

You'll need a hand type impact driver tool to remove the drain plug.
Re-Install the same way!
Before removing the dip stick for venting, remove the drain plug and catch the first few ounces of drive oil in a clean container and examine it!
Look for metallic residue while doing this!

If no residue or water is present, install NEW Drain Plug O-ring, and re-install drain plug... tighten with impact tool.... but gently!
DO NOT re-use any O-rings on this drive!

If the oil is milky or dirty, you have seal, gasket or O-ring issues.
Best to re-seal the entire drive and start your season off with confidence!
Have a pressure/vacuum leak down test performed on the drive w/ the oil drained!
15-20 minutes minimum!

Check the dip stick for correct oil level.... the OEM manual will give you this information.
BTW, the oil level will be half way up the flat.... but ONLY after the drive has been at rest vertically for 5-6 minutes! (the dip stick reads from within a hollow vertical shaft)

Do not use OMC or Mercruiser specified oil unless you know what you are doing.
Do not use GL 5 in the single prop drive! (has to do with the slinger pump)

.
 
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