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[video] 1989 evinrude 60hp bogging down and shaking when throttle

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ryans151

New member
Initially I thought it wasn't getting enough fuel, I have cleaned the carbs, replaced pump, and fuel lines. But it always ends up doing this after a certain amount of time.

Could this happen due to anything other than lack of fuel?


 
Boobie said:
Do a cylinder drop test on it when it's acting up.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will try that tomorrow. I replaced all the plugs, but maybe it's coils?

In the test, all I do is remove plugs one by one and look for spark. Then see if it worsens or remains the same correct?
 
No ,you pull one plug wire at a time when it's running and look for a difference. No difference, that cylinder isn't firing. Use insulated pliers. Find out why cylinder isn't firing.
 
Boobie said:
No ,you pull one plug wire at a time when it's running and look for a difference. No difference, that cylinder isn't firing. Use insulated pliers. Find out why cylinder isn't firing.
Click to expand...

yeah I meant the plugs' plugs haha. I'll let you know what I find out
 
Boobie said:
No ,you pull one plug wire at a time when it's running and look for a difference. No difference, that cylinder isn't firing. Use insulated pliers. Find out why cylinder isn't firing.
Click to expand...


So I did the test and figured out the upper cylinder had no affect on RPM while the other 2 did. So I swapped coils, plugs, and wires and had the same results... So then I cleaned the upper carb again, and then did the test again and it dropped rpms like it should.


Well it still didn't sound perfect but I brought it to the lake and only made it about quarter mile before it happened again. Could it be the top carb gummed up again?
 
I agree....may need to replace the pack. Do you have the DVA meter to check....I can send you diagnostics proceedure.
 
faztbullet said:
Sound like the rev limiter in pack is kicking in.... disconnect the tan wire at pack and retest
Click to expand...

timguy said:
I agree....may need to replace the pack. Do you have the DVA meter to check....I can send you diagnostics proceedure.
Click to expand...

I think you guys may be right! I ran the engine again until it started acting up, and then removed the tan wire and couldn't get it to do it again.

But something new did start... sometimes the engine wouldn't stop increasing RPMs when I stopped accelerating. So I had to kill it with the key because it felt like it was doing WOT in neutral with no throttle being applied...

I read this could be an air leak, and I did notice that from my fuel pump to my carbs there is an air gap in the lines (directly after the pump).

Any suggestions? I have a multimeter but not a DVA. Thanks a ton for the help
 
I went back out on the lake today and can confirm my engine was basically bricked with the rev limiter plugged in... Thanks a lot for the help. It still needs some work but at least it functions now
 
Now fix it...find out if the t-stat is bad/sticking causing overheat sensor to trigger pack limiting or it a failing pack
 
Is it bad to run without rev limiter? Also how to test thermostat, drop it in hot water? The motor does pee pretty good if that makes a difference
 
Answer to your first question is, I would not recommend it. Second answer would be yes test in hot water and check when it begins to close back up after you take it out. It must open fully by 145°. Many thermostats will start to open at about 120, but I like to see a temperature of about 130 to 135 to begin opening. This thermostat I tested yesterday began to open at about 120° and was fully open by 130°, so I replaced it with a Sierra made in USA.IMG_20210406_152626588_compress48.jpg
 

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