U-Joint and Yellow dot

[djhinca]

I'm getting ready to reinstall the transmission on my AQ131/275 outdrive. I noticed that on the PDS end (i.e., female end) of the transmission U-joint yoke, there is a prominent yellow dot. There is no corresponding dot on the PDS area as near as I can tell. Does the yellow dot indicate how the yoke should be inserted into the PDS shaft? Thanks for any insights on this..

 

[RicardoMarine]

No indexing is required!


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[djhinca]

Thanks! In she goes tomorrow...

 

[RicardoMarine]

You’ll need to replace 4 O-rings, and make sure that the shims underneath the transmission did not become disturbed.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you checked the water fitting on the intermediate housing? Now woud be the time to check it before you install the gearbox!

 

[RicardoMarine]

Have you checked the water fitting on the intermediate housing? Now woud be the time to check it before you install the gearbox!

Good call, Kim.

djhinca, the water neck fitting is considered to be a wear item, and must be replaced routinely, as well as the special "beaded" gasket underneath it.
(the "bead" faces down)

Also, FYI.... use only 30W engine oil! No heavy gear oil or you'll risk damage to the slinger pump impeller drive pins.

 

[RicardoMarine]

djhinca, the water neck fitting is attached to the upper horizontal area of the suspension fork. It directs the seawater from the pivot tube to the S hose.
The beaded gasket makes the seal between it and the pivot tube.

It can be seen in either of these images.

 

[djhinca]

Thanks for the "heads-up" on the water neck fitting. I've carefully examined mine and remarkably for a 30+ year-old unit (as is the case with the entire outdrive..), it looks like the new one in Ricardo's pic, including no paint wear. The boat has been used almost exclusively in Lake Tahoe, CA, which is about as close to running it in distilled water as you can get. There is no sign of corrosion anywhere: the zincs are perfect, paint, near perfect, no visible corrosion, no rust. The engine temp rises to 175 on warm-up and never exceeds ~180, regardless of run time/speed. So, I plan to keep a careful eye on things, but so far, so good..

 

[RicardoMarine]

I would still replace the water neck fitting.
You do not know what it looks like on the interior.

 

[RicardoMarine]

djhinca, I was not complete in my post #9. The reason for my mentioning replacing this water neck..... especially at the age that you suggest, is as follows;

For your drive model, this part is aluminum.
Even in fresh water it will be subject to corrosion, if only visible at the interior.
Corrosion may also occur between the S hose and where the hose contacts the fitting.
This part (and it's special beaded gasket) creates a seal against suction at the upper portion of the pivot tube.
During stern drive articulation, the "bead" slowly wears against the pivot tube.
Over years of service, the bead material dries out and shrinks some.
This part comes out and above the water line once up on plane.
A tiny suction breach (due to corrosion or gasket failure) will stop the seawater pump's function, of which will lead to over-heating.

Replacing the water neck fitting would be a preventative measure.

If by chance your fitting turns out to be in great condition and if you were to re-install it, you will have at least been able to inspect the S hose and will have replaced the beaded gasket.


I'm simply making a suggestion based on all of my years working with the AQ series drives.
Your call!



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As for the bellows replacement...... I will suggest that you DO NOT use band clamps with the cuts for the worm screw. (Sierra has a tendency to supply this style)
Instead, use the Euro style band clamps..... such as the OEM .




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