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Troubles with 1986 60 hp Johnson refresh.

S

ShoestringMariner

Member
Hey everyone, I’m trying to get a refreshed 1986 Johnny 60 hp motor running.
Carbs rebuilt.
new impeller and lower unit seals.
it starts but wants to run fast. No tach, but seems 2x faster than idle speed. Air box is off.
Controls dialed down as low as possible. Low speed idle screw backed off.
I also have no pee stream or water coming out prop.

ideas?
 
PhilSch said:
Do you have a factory manual?
Click to expand...

no I have a downloaded manual that covers a lot of different models.

I did some reading up on Link & sync and watched a video. I don’t have the equipment to do a proper link and sync such as a tachometer, test wheel, test light.

I have no idea what the previous owner did this motor, Wondering if I need to go to that full extent at this junction?
 
PhilSch said:
Is the digital manual OMC or third party? If not OEM I highly recommend going that route. I also have a 1986 60 HP and have this manual which is good:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373111840649?hash=item56df32df89:g:xicAAOSwB-1Ytua1

I bought mine off ebay a couple of years ago for around $40. This guy is charging a kings ransom....if you have the OEM PDF I would just wait until you find the above manual for a reasonable price.
Click to expand...

3rd party. Not very good. I’m looking at ordering a few from a shop manual dealer (for this motor and a few and others I have. They run $70-80 USD. It’s so frustrating though...we are in another phase of covid lockdown here and I’ve just finished waiting weeks upon weeks for eBay, Amazon and dealer parts. Almost 8 weeks to be exact! Man I’m so done with covid
 
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Bummer about the lockdowns.....where are you located? BTW, your motor is a good one. You may or may not know prior to 1986 OMC outboard motors were rated at the crank whereas your motor is prop rated. That means your 60 puts out about the same as the earlier 70 hp models.

Reread your original post about the lack of pee stream. Was it running on muffs or in a tank?
 
PhilSch said:
Bummer about the lockdowns.....where are you located? BTW, your motor is a good one. You may or may not know prior to 1986 OMC outboard motors were rated at the crank whereas your motor is prop rated. That means your 60 puts out about the same as the earlier 70 hp models.

Reread your original post about the lack of pee stream. Was it running on muffs or in a tank?
Click to expand...

thanks. I’m in Ontario Canada. We’re behind in herd immunity. It’s almost June and summer is passing us by it seems. This motor is a 49 cu block, not a 56cu. are you thinking of the 70hp models?

the pee stream was on muffs. 2 kinds. The second set fit better but no luck.
I dropped the lower unit again today thinking the impeller key fell out into the abyss, but it’s turning with the shaft. I wonder if I didn’t have the pickup tubes engaged right. The plastic tube in the impeller spout had some pressure marks. I filed them clean and reinstalled.
I also pulled the thermo, all clean in there. Like new. No gasket to re-install so no re-test today
 
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Where in Ontario?-----The 49 cube motor was crank rated at up to 75 HP.----Then the 56 cube was prop rated at 70 HP.-----With the 49 cube engines then rated at 60 HP at the prop.
 
I have seen it take a while for the pee stream to begin if not enough water volume is delivered with the garden hose. Try it again with the water pressure turned up and give it a little bit of time to get primed.
 
ShoestringMariner said:
no I have a downloaded manual that covers a lot of different models.

I did some reading up on Link & sync and watched a video. I don’t have the equipment to do a proper link and sync such as a tachometer, test wheel, test light.

I have no idea what the previous owner did this motor, Wondering if I need to go to that full extent at this junction?
Click to expand...
Use the Joe reeves method of timing to to wot timing. All you need is a timing light none of the other stuff. You need to concentrate on the throttle linkage and carb linkage. Get a factory manual from Ken cook and you can buy a piston stop for around $20
 
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racerone said:
Where in Ontario?-----The 49 cube motor was crank rated at up to 75 HP.----Then the 56 cube was prop rated at 70 HP.-----With the 49 cube engines then rated at 60 HP at the prop.
Click to expand...

I’m Northwest of Toronto.

And I didn’t know that. Very interesting. So when they made the switch from crank to prop ratings, did they more or less call the old 70 a 60? The 56 cu when it came out was only a 70, wasn’t it? Then they offered it as a 50hp and 60hp version shortly after?
 
PhilSch said:
I have seen it take a while for the pee stream to begin if not enough water volume is delivered with the garden hose. Try it again with the water pressure turned up and give it a little bit of time to get primed.
Click to expand...

Thanks I’ll try it again. I’m on well water, so not much I can do about pressure.
 
flyingscott said:
Use the Joe reeves method of timing to to wot timing. All you need is a timing light none of the other stuff. You need to concentrate on the throttle linkage and carb linkage. Get a factory manual from Ken cook and you can buy a piston stop for around $20
Click to expand...
this is excellent. Ken Cook is where I have the shopping cart started. Very busy day. Thanks very much about the joe reeves method. I know nothing about it but I’m chasing down info!
 
racerone said:
Checked the flywheel key?
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not sheared or half sheared, but very shallow projection outward from the shaft.

I could not upload a photo.

The key sticks out more at the top then at the bottom.

.050 inch at the top .025” At the bottom.

I also noticed when placing the fly wheel back, there’s a slight bit of play between the key and keyway. I can rotate the flywheel about 1° or 2° of play before the key bottoms out side to side.
 
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ShoestringMariner said:
not sheared or half sheared, but very shallow projection outward from the shaft.

I could not upload a photo.

The key sticks out more at the top then at the bottom.

.050 inch at the top .025” At the bottom.

I also noticed when placing the fly wheel back, there’s a slight bit of play between the key and keyway. I can rotate the flywheel about 1° or 2° of play before the key bottoms out side to side.
Click to expand...

That's fine. Make sure flywheel and crank mating surfaces are clean and dry. No lube or dirt of any amount. The taper ensures a solid connection as long as the surfaces are clean.
 
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