Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Transom Plate Seal

S

seon

Member
"Before I pulled the 4.3L moto

"Before I pulled the 4.3L motor and OMC outdrive, I filled the bilge with water to check for leaks which seeped from around the tramsom plate. When I removed the plate, I noticed that the seal was completely flat so I placed a straight edge over the seal and discovered that the seal sits below the transom plate due to age thus allowing water to enter the boat.

I've cleaned the seal groove and placed a new seal which appears to have ample height to seal properly. My question...would it help if I applied silicon all around the inner edge of the seal to create a "double seal"?"
 
"You can use aviation form a g

"You can use aviation form a gasket, won't ever get hard. I know the early cobra models the book calls for a sealant there.

This is off the top of my head.

Do you suspect any transom rot?"
 
"I previously posted that I ha

"I previously posted that I had to pull the motor to replace the oil pan that had a leak at the dipsick tube where it connected to the pan plug. Everything is currently out and I was able to do a thorough inspection. The transom and engine compartment bilge are solid.

I bought the transom seal already and have it in the groove using adhesive to hold it in place. I may run a bead of "form a gasket" silicon around the inner perimeter of the gasket to form a double seal. I've used this type of silicon on the front and rear of an intake manifold in lieu of a gasket. When cured, it stays pliable and holds up to high temp of the engine.
Thanks"
 
I bought the seal that it call

I bought the seal that it called for. Installed the plate and torqued to 22 lbs as per manual.
 
"I used the intake gaskets on

"I used the intake gaskets on each side but didn't use the front and back rubber seals. Instead, I used the Permatex brand silicone by applying a bead about 3/8" high then placed the intake manifold on the block, torqued to spec and allowed to cure for 24 hours before starting the motor."
 
Back
Top