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Timing a 318

Great discussion by all....still waiting for the advance timing graph for my 318s ;););)...1 year old distributors and no clue as to what springs I should install.:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Basically, if the advance is all the way in by 2,500-2,800 rpms, you're all set. It's not like a car where the motor spends all day running up and down at these speeds at varying loads; boat engines are either at idle, or "running up hill" (as one adoit thinker put it).

Jeff
 
Basically, if the advance is all the way in by 2,500-2,800 rpms, you're all set.
Jeff, again, I am not a Chrysler Marine expert under any stretch of the imagination, but having years of marine experience, I can't help but question the 2,500-2,800 rpm being suggested for a "full-in" rpm.
It just seems too low to me given what typical hull loads are at this rpm..... especially the 2,500 rpm.
But let's say that it is correct!
We still don't know what the degree of "full in" advance is until someone comes up with Chrysler OEM specs!

I'm not arguing any point per 'se because I have no OEM information to compare this to, just a hunch only.

In post #72, GM threw in these numbers: 27-30* BTDC @ 2.3K RPM (but did not reference his source). That's another 200 rpm lower than your lowest suggested number.

In post #75 I disagreed with him, and went on to make a rough and rather crude comparison between the 318 and the GM 305 engine.
I went on to explain what that much advance (@ that RPM) would do to the GM engine under marine loads.

I much appreciate your knowledge, so what are your thoughts?


Edit:

With a car engine (perhaps a go fast car), we pass through this (what I call) "detonation prone rpm range" rather quickly. Detonation is not given a huge opportunity to raise cylinder temperatures for any length of time, nor become "self perpetuating", (of which it can easily become under Marine Engine loads).

With our Marine Cruiser engines, there's a much greater likelihood that the engine will remain heavily loaded at my alleged "detonation prone rpm range".

A Marine Ignition curve and TA should be much less aggressive, and in no way resemble an automotive ignition advance curve.... as you elude to.
We could not agree more on that issue!

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I just now spent about 25 minutes once again searching for the Chrysler OEM Marine progressive and TA specs, and as usual, I came to a dead end.
https://secure.justanswer.com/payment/deposit-funds.aspx?tqid=205939406 wants $36 in order to respond to my detailed questions, but I have my doubts that they'll be able to do much more than what we have done.

As some of you may remember, I called Mallory a few months ago regarding their OEM replacement ignition system.
I can't off hand remember the number that they gave me (I did post it), but I as I recall, it did not include a full in RPM.
So this is pretty much the same dead end!

Do any of you have any better suggestions?

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..."Basically, if the advance is all the way in by 2,500-2,800 rpms, you're all set. It's not like a car where the motor spends all day running up and down at these speeds at varying loads; boat engines are either at idle, or "running up hill" (as one adoit thinker put it)."
"

Ah, but I'm repeating myself.

Jeff
 
I know... I know...... and now we're both repeating ourselves because I now need to ask the same question!
What is the "Full In" number (in terms of igntion advance in degrees)?

If he sets BASE only, and has a "loose cannon" advancing mechanism, he risks excessive advance at an RPM that may be dangerous.
If he sets BASE only, and has little advancing, he'll end up with no power.
Does he use Greasemonkey's rather agressive numbers (IMO), or does he use more conservative numbers?


Jeff, I'm stumped.... I don't know where to go from here.
I know that some think that I'm being too fussy on this, but in my some 45 years at this, I've seen ignition induced detonation damage, and it ain't pretty.
I'm sure that you, Mark, Woodie, Chris and perhaps a few others have seen this as well.

If this was a BB or SB GM, or a 335 or 385 series Ford Marine engine, I could find and post these numbers.
Chrysler??? aparently no!

I feel as though we're on a big wheel here, and we just keep going around and around and around! :confused:

What's a girl to do?

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That's too much for a 318; I wouldn't exceed 26 degrees total all in at 2,500- 2,800 rpms. That's what I run my 360s at and--knock wood--no holes have yet to appear in their pistons. Going to 28 or even 30 degrees might improve gas mileage, but gas is cheaper than rebuilds!

Jeff
 
1.... I did some research and found some specs 10-12 base and 32-34 all in or total advance but there still was not a specific all in rpm.

2..... MSD does have the electronic advance dizzy that works with a knock sensor but not sure if one is available for the early marine 318. It will retard the timing when detonation occurs and fully adjustable.........

3..... Another thread said if the timing is off it will make the starter labor real hard so that would be another consideration in base timing.

4.... Somthing in the back of my head is telling me the mopar curve takes two stages or two springs rather agressive up to 1800 rpm like 15 degrees then around 3000 be all in. Maybe looks something like this is just an example you have to correctly determine TDC?

5...... 10 degrees base at 800rpm
15 degrees advance at 1800rpm
7 degrees at 3000rpm
that adds to 32 dbtdc at 3000 rpm all in

6..... slack in the second spring allows the two stages of advance

7..... Someone must have the top secret clearance willing to leak the advance curve for a early marine 318. Maybe wiki leaks could find out or someone in the oval office.
1.... didn't someone post a BASE advance spec of 5* BTDC?

2..... That would be an EST system (electronic spark timing), such as the Merc Thunderbolt system, or the Delco Voyager. I don't know if EST is available for the 318/360 engines.

3..... That is correct. The early spark lead will cause the engine to "buck" against it. I'm sure that's why a BASE of 5* is being recommended.
We fire up on and idle on BASE advance..... and as you know, that's all the engine needs BASE advance for.

4...... Most all mechanical advance systems incorporate two flyweight return springs of different values, and perhaps the flyweight cam profile is slightly different from one another. This can create an initial aggressive ramp up, or a fairly linear curve throughout.
Just the nature of a centrifugal advance system.
I do think that you are correct in that the two together provide the complete curve, and then blend these together, so to speak, so that the actual mechanical advance appears rather linear when viewed plotted out.

5 ..... It looks like you are adding BASE of 10*, first ramp up of 15*, and then a secondary value of 7*.
I've not seen a Marine curve graph that lists this in terms of showing a separate curve for each stage of flyweight/spring value.
Most Marine curves show this as though being a continuous curve, even if it ramps up a bit in the beginning.

6..... see above.

7..... No kidding! But rest assured, we do have an agent working on this now.
images



found some specs 10-12 base and 32-34 all in or total advance

that adds to 32 dbtdc at 3000 rpm all in
That's too much for a 318; I wouldn't exceed 26 degrees total all in at 2,500- 2,800 rpms................. Going to 28 or even 30 degrees might improve gas mileage, but gas is cheaper than rebuilds!
Jeff, I'm not sure which of Kim's suggestion you make reference to. With the unknowns, that may be risky, especially re; the lower 2,500 rpm.



Getting completely side tracked and talking out loud here:

I promote the Quench Effect or Squish style combustion chamber in the SBC Marine.
In all the years that I've doing this, I have never used a piston that did not accommodate this.

Chrysler's 318/360 cylinder head offers a wedge section off to the side of the combustion chamber...... very similar to the SBC.

images


Chrysler's 318/360 Marine piston is apparently this flat top piston below... Yes/No?


images



The F/T can be considered a Q/E piston when the correct quench dimension head gasket is used. It can then offer a Quench Effect or Squish Zone.
(the Chrysler Wedge Head automotive guys have known about this for years)

With a Q/E built SBC, we can go up a point or so on static C/R, and can toss more spark lead at the engine and without increased detonation potential. (it's all about LPCP, detonation control, yada yada yada and so on)

Even with a good Quench, 32* @ 3.2k RPM is just about MAX in order to steer clear of Marine load detonation.
You can carry out the progressive some as RPM increase (35* @ 4k rpm for example), but we DO NOT dare bring this spark lead on any earlier than approx 3.2k RPM under Marine loads.

Point being:
If the 318 and 360 have some similarities with the SBC, then it's posible that the same principles may apply.... I don't actually know!
If so, then perhaps 32* @ 3.2k rpm is not out of line.
However, if there is NO quench area in this combustion chamber......, then perhaps 32* @ 3.2k rpm is rather aggressive and risky.

This is why GM's run-of-the-mill SBC Marine Engines (using the full dished pistons) are setup to hold the TA back to approx 26* @ 3k rpm or so. This build CANNOT use 32* @ 3.2k rpm.... or it would most likely detonate!


Just to be clear.... I'm not recommeding any 318/360 advance numbers... just talking out loud.

******************

This thread needs an Intermisssion, like in the movie "Gone with the Wind".
We can go to the snack bar for popcorn and soda pop, and stretch our legs a bit!
Maybe the second half will include the OEM advance curve! ;)


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Yesterday I checked my timing and plotted some curves. See below.

My starboard motor, which I suspected the timing was off, was timed to a BASE value of 5* AFTER TDC. The monkey who rebuilt this motor used the wrong 5* mark on the flywheel. I set the correct BASE of 5* BTDC and plotted the rest of the values up to 2500 rpm. This motor has a Mallory distributor.

My port motor, which I thought was running fine, doesn't seem to be advancing enough. This motor has an OEM distributor. I think I'll replace it with a Mallory instead of trying to recondition it.

-JJ

Mallory distributor.jpgMallory curve.pngOEM distributor.jpgOEM curve.png
 
Modern autos have electronic knock sensors that can advance ignition timing if they detect engine knocking due to detonation. I'm not sure if there are retrofit systems for older marine engines.

-JJ
 
Great discussion by all....still waiting for the advance timing graph for my 318s ;););)...1 year old distributors and no clue as to what springs I should install. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
Question: if these are new Marine distributors, why a spring change or curve change?
While these distributor manufacturers can't tell us what the OEM curve should be, their new distributors are apparently set up with the correct limits.

Same here the numbers I gave were for a example I couldnt find the thread I read a while back but yea 5 degrees base and 20-22 degree advance giving 25-27 all in at whatever rpm between 2800-3200 I would imagine safe from detonation but we still need solid numbers to work by from chrysler.
I would agree on both points!

JJ, in looking at your Port engine curve, it looks as though it has been starved for advance, and is likely capable of better performance.

The one Mallory is either a YLU or YLM (red/green/brown wires).
The YLM is VR,... and the YLU is Photo-Eye. Both use the same mechanical advancing system.
IMO, the VR triggering is the better of the two..... but again, IMOO.

The Prestolite is likely Hall Effect.... and I'll spare you my comments on H/E.

Looks like your curves include BASE, of which is just fine..., but many OEM Marine curves do not include BASE at the vertical scale.


I'm going to popcorn and a Coke..... anybody else?


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$(KGrHqYOKiQE5+Kcd()LBOlEy6hqV!~~60_1.JPG


Here's the front of Jfreeman's engine.



If Jfreeman's flywheel and flywheel cover are marked for TDC, then this becomes so simple.

As susggested, bring the flywheel and flywheel cover markings to TDC.
Without touching the crankshaft, go to the front of the engine.
Make a NEW corresponding TDC mark (balancer -vs- cover) at/on the front engine cover.
Now mark off the balancer up to approximately 30* or 35* and in the direction of ignition advance.

You'll now have all of the markings necessariy for ignition timing.... and with either a Digitally Advancing light, or a Std Light.
All ya need now are the OEM specs if you want to look further than BASE.


No TDC at flywheel???? Now you've got to do the PPS procedure.
This gets a bit involved, but when done, you'll know exactly what you have.



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So the mallory was All in at 2500? or could it do more?

The highest I went was 2500. It was hot as balls down in the engine compartment and I just wanted to get out of the sun.

When I install the new Mallory on my port engine this weekend, I'll run them both up to 3000 and update the curves.

-JJ
 
When I install the new Mallory on my port engine this weekend, I'll run them both up to 3000 and update the curves.
JJ, that would be good! I'm hopeful that you will see a performance increase.

BTW, I liked how you made your curves. Were you using an online graph making program, or another means?

A while back when I marked up that GM curve to show what the 440 specs would look like, I did it in a rather cheese-ball way using MS Paint.
It would be nice to know how to manipulate a blank curve to demonstrate certain things.


[B said:
greasemonkey][/B] So the mallory was All in at 2500? or could it do more?
Could it do more in what regard? More degress of advance, or more RPM until Full-In?


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Hey guys
I just wanted to fill you in....we got out to the boat and took the distributor apart and the weights were not moving. We lubed them up and that did a ton! We were able to get the engine up to 2900 rpms and could have done more probably but I figured that 36 mph was pretty good. The motor still dosen't "R" up as fast like the starboard engine does and it doesn't back down as fast either. The starboard is still more responsive.

I did troll with it this morning for about 4-5 hours and it puffed some black smoke and back fired once and then it was good to go. It also idles much smoother now. Although this somewhat solved the problem, I do think that I will need to get a new distributor. I will post a pic of the weights and such when I make it home.

Any Ideas on the responsiveness?

Also this engine has a light Tap that comes and goes. But I will start a new thread about that to keep this one on topic!

Thanks
 
I would take it apart clean all the weights and springs(everything) with a dremel wire wheel lube it with a thin oil like marvel put a rubber hose on a punch and slide the other end on the distributor shaft stop and start a bunch of times put it back in and see what happens...just remember the difference in the 2 springs and where they went.

Im starting to wonder if the 318s can see 40knots on a 31 silverton
 
I would take it apart clean all the weights and springs(everything) with a dremel wire wheel lube it with a thin oil like marvel put a rubber hose on a punch and slide the other end on the distributor shaft stop and start a bunch of times put it back in and see what happens...just remember the difference in the 2 springs and where they went.

Im starting to wonder if the 318s can see 40knots on a 31 silverton

At 2900 rpm none the less! That bad larry still had some left. Yeah, she didnt do 36 knots brand new from the factory in 1977. Not unless you're going down the Colorado river!

-JJ
 
Jfreeman, is it possible that the tachometer is not reading accurately, and the engine was actually doing greater than 2,900 rpm?

Be careful with the flyweight returns springs in that you don't stretch them, and be sure to put both flyweights and springs back where they came from.
While the pivot pins may be in the same location on either, the spring tang will not be tweaked the same for each spring value.


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Jfreeman, is it possible that the tachometer is not reading accurately, and the engine was actually doing greater than 2,900 rpm?

Be careful with the flyweight returns springs in that you don't stretch them, and be sure to put both flyweights and springs back where they came from.
While the pivot pins may be in the same location on either, the spring tang will not be tweaked the same for each spring value.

It might be, if both are reading inaccurate. But It doesn't sound like we are winding them up or anything. We didn't take the spring or weights out, we just lubed them and moved them around to make sure they were loose.

The boat is a 1973 31' Trojan Sea Raider (thought it was, and was sold to me as an F-30). The boat is real light which is good for this but you can sure tell in a choppy sea how light she is. Yesterday and most days in 2' rollers she does 20 mph at 2000-2100 Rpms. I will take video Next time I am out.
 
I would take it apart clean all the weights and springs(everything) with a dremel wire wheel lube it with a thin oil like marvel put a rubber hose on a punch and slide the other end on the distributor shaft stop and start a bunch of times put it back in and see what happens...just remember the difference in the 2 springs and where they went.

That Scares me bit, just becasue I would have to take it off bring it home and do it and then wouldn't be able to test it for a couple weeks until I got back out there. I found a good deal on this one, will this one work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-YLM579AV/
 
Dry weight is 8100 lbs I believe.

Quick question.

If I'm looking at the front of my engine and it rotates counter clockwise. While looking at the timing indicator on the harmonic balancer. To the left is after top center and the right is before top center. There are no markings other then lines on it.
 
Quick question.
If I'm looking at the front of my engine and it rotates counter clockwise. While looking at the timing indicator on the harmonic balancer. To the left is after top center and the right is before top center. There are no markings other then lines on it.

If you are looking at the front of the engine (as in the Harmonic Balancer, engine circulating pump and #1 cylinder end), then yes, CCW would be a RH Reverse Rotation engine.
(if viewed from the flywheel end, this engine will rotate CW)

If your TDC mark flashed to your left of the TDC timing indicator mark, then that would be ATDC (or retarded ignition timing).

You'll want to read the harmonic balancer markings to your right of the timing indicator mark (BTDC)... if your timing indicator marks extend in that direction.

If you have only a TDC balancer marking, and a TDC front cover pointer, you'll have two choices:
  • Mark off your balancer to your left of the TDC mark.
  • Use a digitally advancing timing light.



Here is an example of a marked-off balancer for a RH Rev engine.
TDC is to our right side, and the progressive degrees extend from TDC to our left.

As you strobe the balancer and increase RPM......, the 10, 20 and 30 degree marks will appear to be climbing towards the timing cover pointer (or zero notch).
balancer3.jpg
 
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