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Stripping flywheel nut trying to test compression on 1964 evinrude 9.5.

D

Douglas112

Member
Hi everyone. Trying to run compression test on this old 9.5, but when I screw the tester in,the engine doesn't want to spin.Actually striped the nut holding flywheel. Remove the tester and engine spins over blowing what seems like good air from plug holes pretty sure I'm using the right fitting on tester,and not screwing in to far. Engine's been stored for years and looks good for it's age. I removed plugs and sprayed wd40 in the cylinders and spun it over some with my impact gun. Then repeated several times hoping to get inside parts some lubrication.any idea's would be appreciated. I've been collecting new tune up and carb kits knowing everything would need re building or replacing. Then, it dawned on me to check compression before I spent any more money on seals and impellers etc.
 
You might consider replacing the crankshaft.---Not sure how you could strip that thread by pulling on the recoil.----Or wrapping a rope around the flywheel for the compression test.
 
racerone said:
You might consider replacing the crankshaft.---Not sure how you could strip that thread by pulling on the recoil.----Or wrapping a rope around the flywheel for the compression test.
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Actually I used my battery powered half inch impact gun with flywheel removed. It seems find spinning without plugs installed. Thanks
 
Douglas112 said:
Actually I used my battery powered half inch impact gun with flywheel removed. It seems find spinning without plugs installed. Thanks
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It would spin over using rope, but was kind of hard. Poured two cycle fuel in carb and cylinders at first and left plugs out while jerking on rope. Then used wd40 a few days later. Had no spark so took magneto wheel off check coils and points. Have new parts to install,so thought I'd test compression. Figured I'd get faster spin with impact gun .
 
Your haste has cost you some more time and effort to now resolve the issue.----When these motors are " hard to turn " I do not hesitate to take them apart for inspection of roller bearings.
 
racerone said:
Your haste has cost you some more time and effort to now resolve the issue.----When these motors are " hard to turn " I do not hesitate to take them apart for inspection of roller bearings.
Click to expand...

racerone said:
Your haste has cost you some more time and effort to now resolve the issue.----When these motors are " hard to turn " I do not hesitate to take them apart for inspection of roller bearings.
Click to expand...
Didn't damage crank shaft threads. Was using a grade 5 nut which was softer threads. Still,if needed can roller bearings still be found for such an old engine? Still struggling to find replacement fuel pump.thsnks
 
These motors suffered from shaking at idle.----Does your have the anti shaking / vibration kit installed ?-----No need to struggle finding a fuel pump.----These pumps are elegantly simple.----Many pumps will fit and work.----About the only thing that can fail is the diaphragm.----Easy to replace.---Even if you have to make one.----Bearings can be found using internet and part numbers.
 
racerone said:
These motors suffered from shaking at idle.----Does your have the anti shaking / vibration kit installed ?-----No need to struggle finding a fuel pump.----These pumps are elegantly simple.----Many pumps will fit and work.----About the only thing that can fail is the diaphragm.----Easy to replace.---Even if you have to make one.----Bearings can be found using internet and part numbers.
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I appreciate your advice. Not sure if it's got anti shaking mounts or not power head does seem to have play and makes me think mounts need replacing.can they still be found? My father in law gave me this motor,so it means alot to me to get it going after sitting for twenty years. He passed a year ago,and had many stories of his adventures with it. Thank you for being there for us.
 
I installed many of those vibration kits !-----I have more that 1 of those 9.5 models for parts.----Post a picture of carburetor as installed and I can tell in 1 second if it has the kit.----Your location ?----Good on you to try and keep this motor going.
 
Here's a picture of carburetor. I replaced point's and condensers,and thermostat and replaced flywheel today. Wanter to check for spark,and had it now. Got brave and squirted alittle fuel mix in carb and cylinders. Four pulls and it fired and ran for a few seconds. Haven't put a fuel pump on yet. Was thinking maybe it needed the flywheel on to balance everything.As for the mounts, I wiggled the engine pretty hard and realized the motor wasn't moving ,but the play seemed to be the body brackets where it swivels. Actually seems normal. Have a carb kit to install. Think this is called a down draft type.Hoping utube has a video on adjusting the float. Thanks agai
 
Resize your photo to under one megabyte and it should attach.
Personally I would not use an impact gun to spin the fly wheel. I have a half inch drive impact gun, and it will not turn over my 15 horse. Those tools are designed to give short, sharp hammer blows versus a continuous rotation..
 
Edchris177 said:
Resize your photo to under one megabyte and it should attach.
Personally I would not use an impact gun to spin the fly wheel. I have a half inch drive impact gun, and it will not turn over my 15 horse. Those tools are designed to give short, sharp hammer blows versus a continuous rotation..
Click to expand...
OK, I see what you mean. Will pull rope from now on. Ordered a fuel pump today. After market said to work. Has correct gasket,but may need to get different screws as someone said the ones that come with new pump are metric. Shorter also. Again thank you.
 
I just picked up a little pack of brass 10-24 screws, 2 inches long to put a water pump on a six horse. Some of them have a thicker base and you need a one and three-quarter inch screw so I had to buy 2 inches and cut them down..
I haven’t heard good things about those Chinese pumps, the diaphragms her crap and they swell up and quit working in a day or two. If it’s by Ciara, or a rebuilt OEM, you should be good.
 
Hope mine isn't Chinese. Will research it. Will search for a Costs or rebuilt OEM. Thanks for the tips. Got a figure out how to resize my photo's too.lol
 
Dammit auto fill I meant Sierra.
looking at your 1st post…if the engine spins, but not once you install the compression tester, it sounds like it’s too deep, & contacting the piston. My tester, I have to unscrew ALL the extensions.
As post #2 says, if you have an exposed flywheel, (usually theyhave 2 notches), obtain about 3’ of 3/16” or 1/8’ rope. Tie a knot at one end, attach any kind of handle at the other. Wrap it around the flywheel sothat when you pull it, tlywheel turns clockwise. This will give your easy “spinning”, to test compression, (do 4 pulls), and startups
 
Edchris177 said:
Dammit auto fill I meant Sierra.
looking at your 1st post…if the engine spins, but not once you install the compression tester, it sounds like it’s too deep, & contacting the piston. My tester, I have to unscrew ALL the extensions.
As post #2 says, if you have an exposed flywheel, (usually theyhave 2 notches), obtain about 3’ of 3/16” or 1/8’ rope. Tie a knot at one end, attach any kind of handle at the other. Wrap it around the flywheel sothat when you pull it, tlywheel turns clockwise. This will give your easy “spinning”, to test compression, (do 4 pulls), and startups
Click to expand...
Will see if tester needs to be shortened by removing first fitting. Didn't think about that because it fit the plug hole. Bet that's it! Yep, just checked,and removing the first fitting makes for a shallower install. And it has a valve stem showing. Will try that again soon. Flywheel is back on power head,so I can pull start again. Going to seek a diaphragm for this original fuel pump. The one I ordered is probably the cheap Chinese one. Will look for a Sierra brand first as you suggested. Feeling alittle embarrassed I didn't think about the compression tester might be too long.lol Thanks!
 
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