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Strange Alarm and Light Combo on 2007 BF200

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baywrangler

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Here's a new one, when I turn the key switch to the on position I get the normal two beeps. Leaving the key in that position, without turning the motor over, I get a long intermittent alarm with a blinking overheat light on the four light ignition switch.

So far I have put a shunt in to check codes but don't have any sequence on the MIL light. I cycled the kill switch five times to reset the system, heard the confirmation beep, and tried again. Same thing, two healthy beeps following by the on & off long buzzer with a blinking overheat light. In all instances, the oil light comes on green and then goes off, but this is all happening without turning over the motor. I did turn it over once and the beeping continued like this.

Any thoughts? I don't see anything in the service manual so am on the verge of taking it to a mechanic to diagnose...
 
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This DOES sound strange! I think if it were a CAR I might try what is known as a "parameter re-set". Meaning to put the ECM back to it's original settings and erasing the adaptively learned memory. Sort of a start from scratch approach at "healing" the computer. Some say "unscrambling it's brains".

I don't know if this would work but it's a simple, safe thing you could try to see if anything changes. All you need to do is remove the NEGATIVE cable from the battery and then touch the cable end to the positive battery cable end. Doing this will discharge the capacitors inside the ECM that keep it's memory banks charged while it's not powered up.

If you have multiple batteries or if my directions are intimidating and confusing to you, it can also be accomplished by simply disconnecting the battery over night and allowing the capacitors to slowly discharge on their own. My way is just faster.

If the symptoms go away after you reconnect the battery then great. But you may notice that, at least at first, it might start and idle differently as it "relearns" it's cold start enrichment strategy.




Hopefully others here will have better, more targeted suggestions for you if they've seen this condition before. I'm a car and truck tech and only have working knowledge of the smaller, carbureted twin Hondas.

I've done enough lurking here and reading to also know that the MAIN RELAY can be problematic on these larger outboards at times and this could also be related to that component. I'm not sure if my reset trick would have any effect on that.

Good luck.
 
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Appreciate the tip. Car... boat... they're all run off a computer either way, right? I do have multiple batteries and getting to the switch is kind of a PITA. Wondering if pulling the fuse for the ECM would accomplish the same thing as disconnecting the cables and allowing the capacitors to discharge.
 
Not sure about what pulling the ECM fuse would do although it's another one of those couldn't hurt to try things.

I like Jimmy's question....wonder if water in separator could cause this??

Another simple thing you might want to check off.
 
None of this will work, taking away power has no effect on the ecm whatsoever.This is a very unusual and tricky fault, most likely a wiring fault. What happens when you actually run the engine? The best way to go here is by hook up to Dr h diagnostics to try and see what is happening
 
Unfortunately you were right... I had already checked the fuel for water, since that can cause all kinds of erratic behavior, and it was good. While pulling the power to reset the ECM seems plausible, it didn't change anything either.

Something to mention is that the MIL and battery lights are completely out on the ignition. They don't even come on for a second when turning the key to the on position.

When I turn the motor over everything runs smoothly, water coming out of the pee hole while on muffs is warm, oil light is solid green, etc... but the overheat light keeps blinking with the long on & off buzzer.

Local Honda mechanic said to bring her in Monday AM to hook up to the Dr H so that's the plan unless something miraculous changes over the weekend. Last time I had this buzzer sequence it was the O2 sensor, so have one coming tomorrow in case. Seems like it may end up being a faulty ignition switch, though, given the two lights that are out.

Thanks to all for the tips! Feel free to chime in if something else comes to mind and I'll give it a shot this weekend.
 
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Like I said, this one is very odd, I've been working on these motors since they came into existence and have not come across this one.I will be very interested to know what they find.
 
If the MIL (Check Engine) light is not working, of course you didn't get any codes. So, get them to check/fix the key switch lights if that is the problem. But I suspect that a new harness will fix all of those problems.
 
Exactly what I was thinking after putting 2&2 together with the MIL light, that and D'oh! We'll see what Dr H says, but won't be surprised if a new harness/switch is in my future.
 
So it got hooked up to Dr H and turned out to be ETC sensor #3. Dropped into the water and headed off only to have the overheat light and alarm come on solid when accelerating. It's done this other times recently, and usually happens right around when the boat is getting on plane. Alarm and solid overheat light come on, the oil light stays green and it goes into limp mode. Turn off and back on and can run all day with no problems, peeing strong and the pee water is normal temp.

So far I've checked the t stats hanging in a pot with thermo and they're opening >3mm between 140 and 160 F, have backflushed, and now had temp sensor 3 changed.

The MIL and battery lights are definitely out on the ignition still so am thinking of either: trying to change ETC sensor #2 or pulling it out of the water to hook back up to go back to the doctor. If, by chance, it turns out to be ETC #1 I'm wondering if anyone has experience with it. The shop manual shows it as being in the V so am curious if it's readily accessible or if the VST will have to come out to access it.
 
I had the issue of the over heat alarm/limp mode, by the time I got it back into neutral the alrms would stop and id be off again. Had it hooked up to the computer and it was the ETC sensor in the V (1 I think), shop did it in a few hours. However that didn't fix the problem. I checked the thermostats and they tested ok but i changed them anyway and it hasn't done it since.
 
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