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Steering - 1989 Johnson 110HP 2 Stroke

Update -

I received the new parts recently and tried to do the job.

I managed to jack the motor up via that jockey wheel method and then removed the center tube.

The motor has dropped a little, and now I cannot raise it again because the tube is out. The motor is tied to the boat.

When I try to jack motor up the motor just slides out away from transom - on the blocks supporting the skeg, and does not rise.

I don't know what to do now.

The clearance between the bottom of the top member of an engine hoist and the flywheel is none, as it is about 70mm too short (to comfortably go over top of flywheel)...

I cannot obtain any higher hoist anywhere..

Help!

Cameron
 
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stand by.

I will post some pics in 10 mins of the tube area.....

the hoist is coming tomorrow (in around 14 hours).
 
pics as promised...

sorry for the grease and muck everywhere...
 

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also, are you able to advise on the PCD of the 3 threaded holes on the top of the flywheel for this motor?

Cameron
 
I see two options.
1: Loosen both brackets from the transom.
2: A crowbar between transom and the swivel bracket and you should be able to 'lift' the engine in position.
 
Sorry, but do not remember the thread sizes. You should however be able to find a screw somewhere on your engine that fits and you may use as reference. If to be used together with puller or lifting eye, get 10-8 screws!
 
Thanks.

I had everythign ready to do the job and I realise I do not have the right thread for these holes.

I had a special lug made up to suit these holes.

What size is 10-8 screws?

Cameron
 
Success -

As soon as I found out what thread those bolts were, I drove down to the lcoal hardware shop and got some.

This allowed me to raise the motor via the flywheel - which really helped!! Thank you!

I managed to fit the new tube, but have not connected up steering yet, as I have a query regarding the lock nuts at either end of the tube.

There is not enough thread on the tube to fit Items 92 and 44 - as per assy shown

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...ION/parts.html

I do not know if there is a mistake on the assy or I am missing something???

Any thoughts?

Cameron
 
Tighten 92 on port side until it bottoms the threaded part of the tube (the short thread)
44 on port side is only a plastic scraper nut to keep the grease inside the tube and prevent water entering.
On stb side of the tube (long thread), tighten the nut 44 until you have no side play between the brackets and swivel bracket. That should leave at least 1" +++ free thread for the steering cable nut.
When steering cable has been installed, then put on the wiper nut on port side on whatever threads are left so it seals around the steering cable tube sticking out.
 
hey there.

thanks for replying and apologise for late response. i am currently in the scrub with very limited connectivity and have been for many days...

when i return home in a week or 2, i will keep playing with these nuts to get it right.

one thing i need to mention is that i have already installed 44 on both sides, and tried to undo them, but cannot because i cannot lock one side down to undo the other side.

and, there are hardly any thread remaining on port side after 44 is installed, and i cannot see how 92 fits on to any thread.

cameron
siwsne
 
Drop by a hardware store and get two 'thin' std nuts that fits on the threads.
Put both on the long thread side (stb) and counter torque all at the end. Then you should be able to loosen/adjust the two 44 nuts.
The correct 92 should have the same thread as 44, but is most often just a plastic nut/cap.
 
Just wanted to say - a big thank you.

I was able to rectify this issues I was having with these nuts and I have now completed this job.

The steering is smoother and now I can concentrate on getting the boat in the water and using it :)

Cameron
 
no worries - will definitely post them when ready.

Now, with everything back together, a flat spot exists in the steering at the start of any time I start to turn the wheel, for about 20-30 degrees rotation.

I have to turn the wheel without any resistance this amount of rotation before I feel any resistance and then begin to turn the motor with the wheel.

I want to get rid of this delay/lag in steering.

THoughts?


Cameron
 
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You may not have tightened the cable nut at the engine enough making a play in the outer cable part.
How much play before cable starts to react?
 
I have not torqued up that nut yet. Could that be why?

The wheel turns about 15 degrees before the cable starts to react. I will soon post a short video showing this play.

Cameron
 
Check if the outer part of the steering cable is moving at the engine side. If nut not tightened, it might be some mm play.
 
just checked - outer part of steering cable at engine side is not moving at all.

cameron
Is you new cable and helm from same manufacturer?
Loosen the cable from helm, pull out 1" so you see the inner cable,or set the steering in center and watch the part of cable sticking out from the helm, test again and see if the play is in the helm or cable. A slight play is normal, but unless you have a helm with 4,5 turns from full stb to full port it looks a bit too much.
 
Yes new cable and helm is from Teleflex.

I don't quite understand your second sentence, but I will play and report back.



Cameron

PS - Kimcrwbr1 - what is the significance of that link you posted??
 
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Yes new cable and helm is from Teleflex.

I don't quite understand your second sentence, but I will play and report back.

Cameron

PS - Kimcrwbr1 - what is the significance of that link you posted??

Just that in a mechanical steering, the more turns you have from full stb to full port, the bigger will the wheel play often be.
The helms are not exactly Swiss watches when it comes to tolerances.
 
Did you watch that video, and if so, let me know your thoughts on that amount of play shown... ?

If the steerign wheel nut is not fully tightened, woudl that cause this amount of play?

Cameron
 
The total play is a sum of all small plays.
It may be in the helm, it might be in the cable itself and other connections to the engine.
Just see to that all is a s tight as possible, then live with it.
 
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