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Solex Carbs- 44 PAI

teg1928

teg1928

Member
Need some advice from someone experienced with these carbs. Had them (dual carbs) rebuilt awhile ago and just finishing the boat to get it in the water. It needed lots of repair. So as to basic carburator setup- My question is after installing the carbs, do I leave the throttle cable unattached and set the idle speed, then attach the throttle cable with the shifter in the neutral position? Additionally- I have found carburator setup info on many varieties of the AQ engine familyand various carburators, i.e. AQ131 , 230, 151, 250, 171, 251. but doesn't specifically list my AQ130C or my Solex 44 PAI carbs. My SELOC book does not provide much info on this particular carburator either. How many turns of the idle screws and idle mixture screws is recommended for this engine?

Additionally, How can I tell what outdrive I have as the cover plate with this detail is missing on the outdrive unit. My boat is a 1971 Glastron with AQ130 motor.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Teg1928
 
Welcome to the forum from another AQ130 owner. Solex carbs for the AQ130's are all 44PAI. Basic setting on the mixture screw is 2 turns out. When you start adjusting the carbs, the throttle cable should be connected and the spring slightly compressed. The spring compression makes sure the plates close all the way when you shut the throttle. Set mixture in neutral and after warmed up. Be aware that when you get the boat in the water, you may need to bump the idle up a bit because of the back pressure and to keep it from stalling in the no wake zones. For the linkage, adjust until the linkages operate together. Syncronizing is a bit of a dance but not really difficult with just two carbs. You may need to adjust the accelerator pump linkages so that they start to compress the diaphrams when you first start moving the throttle. Keep in mind that these carbs don't have chokes so might be a bit cold blooded at first.

For the outdrive - pictures will help people determine which one you have.

As far as that Seloc manual, it's not allways right. Get a copy of the owners manual from the Volvo Penta web site and if at all possible, get hold of an actual Volvo workshop manual for both your engine and outdrive. Here's a link to the VP site so you can find the owners manual and brochures: http://www.volvopenta.com/VOLVOPENTA/NA/EN-US/MARINE_LEISURE_ENGINES/OUT_OF_PRODUCTION_ENGINES/Pages/out_of_production_engines.aspx

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
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Edit: I just noticed that Volvo has started charging for the owners manuals. I downloaded mine several years ago so don't know how long ago they started doing this. What a pain in the rear!!!!!
 
? My 1986 boat and 19?? motor has a 44PAI.
There is no mixture screw. The idle jet is a fixed orifice.
Only the throttle plate stop screw is adjustable.
 
Thanks Joe for your tips and information. Been trying to sort out all the issues with this boat one at a time. Let's just say the previous owner hmmmm "Cobbled together" things instead of fixing them correctly. Soooo currently there is no spring on the end of the throttle cable like was in the picture of the manual. It says there should be about 5/32 of compression in the spring. I also couldn't find a part number for the spring in the schematics. It isn't shown in the Fuel Systems or Controls schematics. If you happen to know the part number it would be appreciated .

Thanks again for your help.

Teg1928
 
It's frustrating trying to put something back together when it's cobbled together in the first place. "As found" may not be correct so you end up doing what you hope makes sense. It also means that you will need to go over every system, fuel, water, and electrical, to verify that things are as they're supposed to be. Not sure of your experience level so want to throw out a few things about marine specific parts. Electrical components like alternators and starters need to be specifically marine rated. Carbs and fuel pumps need to be marine as well.

For the spring, I got one at Ace Hardware.
 
no didn't know that was an option. but just found out tonight that I got taken to the cleaners on the carb rebuild job. one of the accelerator gaskets was leaking fuel so I ordered a gasket kit. there is no way the guy replaced that gasket or the needle valve screws. So I'm rebuilding them myself. Anyone know where I can get an accelerator pump spring for my Solex 44pa1 ???? can't find it online nor a part number in the schematics.Upon close inspection looks like he maybe cleaned up the outside of the carbs and took my $250! UGH! :mad:
 
If you're talking about the one inside the housing, it comes with the rebuild kit. You can use the Sierra kits or you can find the generic ones for around $30 online. These carb's aren't terribly complex so rebuilding is relatively easy. Pay attention when installing the spring inside on the accel pump and pay attention to the drawing in the manual. Do NOT use the Solec manual for this.

Make it a point to blow out all passages. Compressed air works good here if available.

The soft washers for the fuel connection shouldn't be reused. You might want to order some extras of those. Be careful when installing the banjo bolts for the fuel lines. The bolts and the carbureator cover are both aluminum and you can easily crossthread both. Tends to ruin your day if you do that. Believe me, I know :eek:!
 
Thanks Joe,
I'll have to get the washers. One is missing of course. Yep I can see cross-threading ruining your day- or weekend! Also wish I had seen your reply earlier. I went to the local boat junkyard to retrieve a spring for the accelerator pump assy. Had to buy a whole carburator to get it. Didn't see any gasket kits online that included the spring. Live and learn I guess. Ordered the second gasket kit Friday night. Hopefully get the carbs rebuilt this week after work and get a test run on a nearby lake on Saturday morning. Thats the goal anyway. Thanks again for your tips. I got my gasket kits fromn Mike's carburator parts which has written instructions and a re-assembly video. Tg
 
Update!: Thanks to Joe and all for your comments and tips. Got the carbs successfully rebuilt last Thursday and installed and got the baisc idle settings adjusted in the driveway. Sounds great now at idle. Had it out at the lake Saturday. Boat runs good. Except for it pings at mid and high throttle range. Going for a compression test next. Doesn't sound good at the moment from some of the posts I've read. Most likely one of the pistons may have a hole burnt through it. Anyone know of someone who might want to get rid of a good old pistion cheap for a 1971 era AQ130C (B20 block) motor? I'll have to most likely pull the head, drop the pan and see whats going on in there. Havn blue smoke coming out the blowby hose from the block isn't good. Maybe worth repairing. Glad I only paid $215 for the boat and trailer!
 
Glad to hear that you've got it up and running.

As for the pinging and smoking, probably best to start a new thread since people won't necessarily follow this one to see new issues.

But I will say that pinging can be a symptom of timing advanced too far. Best to check both idle and advanced timing. The book says 12 degrees at idle and 27-29 at 2000 rpm.

If an engine has sat for several years, it may take some time for the rings to set correctly again so that may be the source of the smoking. I'd be tempted to run it with a load on it for several hours before the compression readuings will tell you any thing practical. Except of course, if it's some type of total failure, but we're hoping that's not the case!

I rebuilt an AQ130C over the fall and winter so have some recent experience if that becomes the case.
 
Will check the timing asap. It would be great if it was something simple like that ...but typically my luck doesn't run that way. Have a timing light in the tool box. Probly covered in dust it's been decades since I've had to use one. When you did your rebuild did you have to replace the pistons and all? About what $$$ can I expect to dish out for gaskets, bearings ect if I have to go that route? Will most likely tackle it myself.

Tom
 
Rebuild ran about 5-600 hundred but I also had to find another head. I had a shop hone the cylinders and recondition the head but did the rest myself. Didn't need new pistons since they were still in good shape and the cylinders wear didn't warrant oversized pistons and rings. Replaced rings, bearings, cam, lifters, and all seals and gaskets. Keep in mind that these things typically cost more than you had originally planned and there are lots of little things that add to the frustration.

You've also got the cost of a few extra tools like ring compressor and spring compressors, a few valve lapping tools, mikes, compression tester, dwell meter, remote oil pressure gage, and laser heat gun.

Some of the parts are difficult to find and you'll learn more than you wanted about the Volvo B20 engine and it's variants when looking for the correct parts. I'd be inclined to take it one step at a time and equip yourself (or borrow) the basic tools like compression tester and dwell meter so you can get a good feel for the maintenance and actual condition of your engine before you commit to a rebuild. I did the rebuild on a spare engine so had the time to find and wait for parts.
 
Will let you know what I find out after my dwell tester arrives. None avaialble at the 3 auto parts stores near home and got a good buy online. Also picked up a compression tester and ordered a remote oil pressure gage. Already have a set of mics & timing light. 5-600 wouldn't be too bad for a rebuild thought it would be way more than that. Am stopping by a cylinder head shop on the way home, I saw the other day, to get an estimate on getting it reconditioned. Keeping my fingers crossed that there's nothing seriously wrong with the engine.

Hopefully have some results to share by the end of the weekend.

Tg
 
Finding replacement parts can be a bit of a challenge. Searching google or ebay with the actual part number can be surprisingly successful. Some of the OEM parts will be impossible to find so use your own judgement when it comes to replacements.
 
G'Day Teg...Penta manual says disconnect cable from linkage and loosen clamps on coupling shaft. Screw idle speed adjusters (the ones with the springs on them) out till just touching their contact points, then screw each 3/4s of a turn IN. The other small screw on the carb. base is the idle mixture needle; screw in till just lightly bottomed (no further), and screw out 1&1/2 turns. Prime your fuel line (rubber bulb, if fitted), then work the fuel pump lever on the side of the block till firm. Twist the throttles by hand to put 5 squirts down each throat. Fire up! Should start and run at about 1200 revs till warm. (Plugs clean? Points gapped and clean? Static timing at 11 deg BTDC?) If not, 2 more squirts and refire. Ease idle SPEED needles out equally to give 800 revs when warm. Screw one MIXTURE screw in till you hear a slight rev drop, then back out to just restore the revs. Repeat on the other carb. Switch off. LINKAGE. Set driver's control lever to neutral. Reconnect the throttle cable to the carb linkage so that it's arm is horizontal or just above, to allow full throw. In the absence of a return spring, turn the clamps so they press the throttles shut at idle and tighten. Set the driver's control to 1/5 throttle and restart, pull back and check the return to idle revs. Some fiddling with the clamps may be required. Playing with the controller with engines off still squirts fuel and will flood the carbs. A Unisync flow gauge is nice but not essential if you are subtle with your screwdriver. I get plenty of practice on twin, triple carbed AQ170 volvo Pentas. Hope this helps....Neil.
 
I found out that there are two 44PAI carbs. Older, and later model. I bought a kit from Mike's, in Washington, and they sent me the kit for the older model. I have a AQ131D, and it has the later model 44PAI. The idle/air mixture screw is very different, as is the bolt spacing on the manifold. $42+ for a kit that did not have many parts that fitted. I was able to carefully use some of the older parts to make it work. Bummer.
 
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