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Shift problems foward into neutral

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bdragons

New member
Alpha 1 3.0L. Have been out on boat the last couple times and have noticed an issue shifting out of FWD and back into NEUTRAL, it stays in FWD even though the shift position at shifter is in the NEUTRAL. To further clarify the issue this seems to usually happen when I have the motor trimmed high and running at low RPMs when I am trying to dock in shallow water. Right now I am thinking its a shift cable adjustment or possibly the shift interrupter switch, as I do not necessarily noticed the interrupter cutting the engine between gears.. I do have the service manual printed for shift cable adjustment already, thought I would check before I start putzing with it tho. Thanks
 
could be the adjustment or the cable could be binding due to wear or damage (any recent overheating incident?)...won't hurt to verify the cable adjustment as well as ensuring there's no binding at the interrupter.
 
Also for whats its worth, I could not recreate the problem yesterday with muffs on it. I did have have it trimmed all the way down though. I will try again today with it trimmed up to see if any difference.
 
makomark said:
could be the adjustment or the cable could be binding due to wear or damage (any recent overheating incident?)...won't hurt to verify the cable adjustment as well as ensuring there's no binding at the interrupter.
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Realized I didn't answer your question. It is a 91 boat, I acquired in 2003 and haven replaced any cables ~ so my guess is they are the originals :p. Also no overheating issues in past.

- Should I be able to notice\hear the motor hesitate when shifting?
- Can you pls be more specific on how to check - "no binding at the interrupter"
 
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Shifting in the water is different than shifting out of the water.

Yes you should feel/hear a hesitation when shifting OUT of gear

Go to the motor, there will be a shift bracket where the shift control cable and the short shift cable both mount.

there will be a big plastic V notched piece, there is a micro switch that sits in the middle of the V

with the engine running (hose and muffs attached and on) depress the switch with your finger or a screwdriver. If the engine stalls then the switch is working. This is the shift interuptor switch,.

When shifting OUT of gear, forward or reverse there is resistance in the short shift cable due to the gear and clutch dog not wanting to seperate (cytrifical forces). this resistance causes the V notch to move thus activating the interuptor switch. This will for a split second kill the ignition which is just enough time for the gear and clutch dog to disengage.

there is not the same resistance on the shifting gear and linkage when out of the water to always reproduce the normal function.

If the switch when depressed while running does NOT stall/kill the engine then replace the switch........

this also assuming no one has F'cked with the cable adjustments............
 
kghost said:
Shifting in the water is different than shifting out of the water.

Yes you should feel/hear a hesitation when shifting OUT of gear

Go to the motor, there will be a shift bracket where the shift control cable and the short shift cable both mount.

there will be a big plastic V notched piece, there is a micro switch that sits in the middle of the V

with the engine running (hose and muffs attached and on) depress the switch with your finger or a screwdriver. If the engine stalls then the switch is working. This is the shift interuptor switch,.

When shifting OUT of gear, forward or reverse there is resistance in the short shift cable due to the gear and clutch dog not wanting to seperate (cytrifical forces). this resistance causes the V notch to move thus activating the interuptor switch. This will for a split second kill the ignition which is just enough time for the gear and clutch dog to disengage.

there is not the same resistance on the shifting gear and linkage when out of the water to always reproduce the normal function.

If the switch when depressed while running does NOT stall/kill the engine then replace the switch........

this also assuming no one has F'cked with the cable adjustments............
Click to expand...

Interrupter Switch is working fine, stall engines when running. The roller is not really moving when shifting out of gears and I cannot hear it stall the engine. Gears sound like there is a little grinding when going into gear, which is probably right where I need the Interrupter. So based on what you said the I do not have enough resistance in the short cable to move the switch? When through the service guide on cable adjustment. Assume the adjustment for this is based on location of the brass swivel in short shift cable?
 
Trim out drive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the trunion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before installing it turn the brass trunion 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

Try this and retest in water under load.
 
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