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Question: Would a broken spring located on the shaft pin on the portside of the retaining pawl mechanism cause the outdrive (280) to cavitate above 2000rpm?.
Started this weekend coming back from offshore going through inlet. Increased rpm's up from 3000 to around 3200 to adjust for following sea, when engine overrevved, then had to back down under 3000. Once inside inlet, did good until rpm's hit somewhere around 3200 with engine overrevved once more. It seemed like cavitation, but not sure. Checked it over today and noticed the broken spring as mentioned. Checked oil in outdrive, was a bit low (no more then about 1/2 pint). Just trying to get a realistic starting point.
Rick concerning the spring and replacement. Is it possible to remove the pin to replace spring without having to separate the drive as described in the Clymer Shop Manual?
First off..... toss that Clymer in the recycle bin and get your hands on an OEM work shop manual.
As for the little coil/spiral spring and lock brace........ I would pull the transmission.
Then I'd remove the Intermediate housing with the lower unit still attached (or remove it prior).
Get it on the work bench and make an assessment.
You'll find that you can take care of several other replacements while there.
Keep in mind that if you remove the pivot tube..... it is soft.
Use nothing harder than an Italian bread stick to drive against it!
The upper area must remain in pristine condition for the water neck's beaded gasket.
While the pivot tube is out, you can inspect the lower needle bearing surface.
One day I'll have everything fixed or in theory lol.
You should know that we never have everything fixed!
Once again, thanks.
You are very welcome!
Rick, your question about which gear oil I'm using seems to concern me. Does the term 100-200 cover all the models of the AQ series?
NO!
I ask, because I think I may have miss understood the Clymer Manual (in which you said to trash), at the start of this project.
Should I be using GL-5 gear oil/synthetic gear oil my 280 outdrive
NO!
The heavy GL-5 gear oil will over-burden the die cast aluminum slinger pump impeller drive pin(s).
If you were to shear a drive pin(s), you will effectively loose the slinger pump's ability to send cooler gear oil up to the transmission for heat removal.
With regard to synthetic oil......... often the sliding sleeve/gear cups will need to be lapped in order to use the more friction free synthetic oil.
In other words, ** synthetic oil may not allow for enough friction for the sliding sleeve to lock up into it's respective gear cup!
When/if the sliding sleeve and gear cups have been properly "lapped" (*** Volvo Penta makes no reference to doing this), they will typically be OK with synthetic gear oil.
*** Lapping the sleeve/gear cups requires transmission disassembly and the know-how to do this!
As said..... volvo does not refer to this in any service or work shop manual..... but it does work well!
or using the same oil as I run in the motor (10w-40)?
In cold water, you will want to use 30W, and it need not be detergent oil.
In warmer Florida waters, you can use 40W.
Now.... if your 280 was equipped with a Duo Prop lower unit, then yes....... use GL-5.
And see ** above if using GL-5 synthetic!