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Replacing power cable

TDL

Member
This is how I spent 4.5 hours on a 100 degree day!

Bought my used boat three years ago equipped with twin 2004 Honda 225s. The port engine had trouble tuning over right from the beginning, the port side tachometer would jump erratically when I trimmed the motor, and went down to zero when passing 4,000 rpm. Mechanic side the alternator on the port engine and the main fuse on the BlueSea panel were reaching their end. So I replaced them they worked as they should. However, from the beginning of this season. The slow starting symptom got worse and worse. I replaced two starting batteries (800 CCA) and tightened all the wires, replaced the battery switch that helped a little.

Finally on the past Sat night, I was about to take my boat to the bay to watch fireworks but the port engine would not start. Only rapid clicking sound when I turned the key. I had gone fishing the whole afternoon earlier and the engine started just fine. I went to a near by Honda dealer on Sunday morning but the earliest appointment is two weeks away. So I decided to do some DIY again. I firsts replaced the lug, which had moderate corrosion, on the positive power cable connected to the battery switch but still no start, only fast clicking. Spent another hour under 100 degree sun tracing the negative cable, had to remove the fish box to cut off all the stupid zip ties to free that cable and then removed it from the common ground..The look was scary...I first tried to cut a few feet off to see if I could find clean copper, but no luck...the whole wire turned black. So I ended up to re-rig a new 8' 1G negative cable on the port side. Finally got everything working, the motor started at first click, and the Tachometer worked properly all the way to WOT!

I felt lucky that the bad cable did not overheat and burn down the boat. Once I cut of the rubber cover, I can literately crunch the wire into black dust..
 

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It is very thoughtful of you to take the time for that detailed post. Hope this helps others. It's a constant battle if you are operating in saltwater.
 
It is very thoughtful of you to take the time for that detailed post. Hope this helps others. It's a constant battle if you are operating in saltwater.
What really annoys me was the quality of the OEM cable. I don’t believe the wires were tinned. I also found someone had cut 6” off the starter cable and put a new lug on the starboard side. So far the starboard engine starts just fine, but it turns a bit slower than the port engine with new cable. Make me wonder how long will the OEM cable last.
 
If I were in your shoes, and given that cable, I would replace them all simple as a cheap insurance policy.

Interestingly, this spring I was getting a slower then normal crank on my single BF 225 so I decided it was time to replace my 5 + year old batteries. When I did that, I checked the cables, which were installed in 2008. They appeared to be still in good shape even though I only operate in saltwater - no visible corrosion and no internal "crackling when flexed. So apparently the dealer used really high quality cables during initial installation. I guess that the take away is that quality really matters when it comes to power cables.
 
Thanks for posting. I also have a Honda 225 with starting issues traced to OEM battery cable. Did you run a new 1AWG cable through the Honda rigging port? Did you have any issues with it fitting? Was there enough room to go up one size to 1/0 cable? I have a pond run of about 23’ so need a large cable. I would prefer to eliminate OEM cable but not sure what will fit through the rigging port.
 
Thanks for posting. I also have a Honda 225 with starting issues traced to OEM battery cable. Did you run a new 1AWG cable through the Honda rigging port? Did you have any issues with it fitting? Was there enough room to go up one size to 1/0 cable? I have a pond run of about 23’ so need a large cable. I would prefer to eliminate OEM cable but not sure what will fit through the rigging port.

If you mean the grommet, #3 at https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...xxa-2004/front-cover-bracket-front-lock-shaft, the rigging port; then it is tight but manageable to fit a 1 AWG cable. 1/0 will be challenging.
 
Great post! Telling photo!

And this is yet another opportunity for me to try to get folks interested in the virtues of VOLTAGE DROP testing. Or, a way to see whats going on electrically under the insulation without getting out the razor knife.

Google it, learn the technique and have fun.
 
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