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replacing oil pan 1987 2.5 L

Paul McMillan

New member
Hello, looking for some direction on replacing a leaking oil pan on a 1987 2.5 litre Merc cruiser

There appears to be a small crack just below the oil pan plug.

I do have a manual and it says the out drive has to be removed first and than the engine.
My question is, does anyone know if the motor mounts can be removed and the motor simply lifted high enough to allow removal of the pan?
 
Re: replacing oil pan

Drive MUST be removed before engine may be lifted.
(remember to put in reverse before pulling the drive).
How high you want to lift before changing the oil-pan, is all up to you.
However always disconnect battery and fuel before attempting to lift.
Even the shift cable to drive must be disconnected, then it is just cable harness (plug)and throttle cable left, and you may lift it all out!
When re-installing, always check engine alignment before attempting to install the drive.
 
Re: replacing oil pan

How much room you have in front of the motor ? You will need about 7 inch's.

I have done it on a omc 2.5 - 3.0. If you have the room then heres how i would do it.

I would remove the 5 screws that hold the flywheel cover on and then remove the flywheel cover.

Then i would snip off the ear because it will just be a byatch to take off and re-install with it on.

Then i would remove all the wire connection on the motor and mark them. Remove the cables.

Remove the 6 screws bolts that hold the motor to the bell housing.

Loosen the clamps that hold the rubber tube to the exhaust pipe. Slide the rubber tube down and off the riser.

Hook up your hoist, lift the motor just enough to take the weight off the front mount, remove the entire front mount.

Now you have to move the motor forward 6-7 inchs to allow the shaft to slide out of the coupler, and lift the motor straight up.

You have to move the motor or the boat and lower to about 6 inch's from the ground or pallet or stand. Drain the oil out of the pan.

You have to remove the timing gear cover, and remove the pan, this might not be easy.

Scrape real good all the mounting surfaces, check the timing gear cover, me i just bought a new one for a chevy 2 motor, 35 bucks and painted the outside 3-5 times.

Buy the gaskets, you need a 4 piece set. However fel-pro makes a complete set with all the gaskets.

You will see the little holes where the gaskets has these little nubs the holes must be cleaned with a wire to allow all the nubs to fit.

I use a good amount of red sllycone.

While you got the pan off check and or clean the oil pump.

New pan off a chevy2 will fit and of course you guessed it paint that as well 5 times.

Check all the casting plugs. Me i would paint everything.

Put the motor back in the same way you took it out.
 
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Re: replacing oil pan

Drive must be removed to check alignment when the engine goes back in.
It should be removed every year to check gimbal brg. and alignment.
It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the drive. Gear shift in FWD, remove 6 nuts and trim cylinder pin. it will slide out.
 
Re: replacing oil pan

Quite a difference on an old OMC El-shift/400.
Mercruiser and Cobra same 'system'.
remove the drive (6 nuts and a tilt-pin)
Remove nuts from rear engine mounts, remove bolts front mount-engine bed.
Loosen exhaust hose clamps and all cables, fuel line etc.
Hoist almost straight up!
 
Re: replacing oil pan

Thanks you all of you for your input

I will get a price to do this as I don't really have a place to complete this type of repair and the hoist or b&t.

I was hoping the motor could be tilted to allow acess but that obviously won't work without causing further damage.

Again, thank you
 
Re: replacing oil pan

Sorry, not sure where Hy is, but I am close to Toronto in Ontario, Canada

Due to the boat's age, I was thinking of trying an epoxy as this is a very small leak. 1 ounce every 2-3 days. Am I nuts?
 
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