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Removal of AQ240280 Engine

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"I am looking for additional d

"I am looking for additional detail on removing a Volvo AQ240 engine from a Fiberform twin engine set up. Do I need to remove the complete 280 outdrive first? or can I just remove the upper gear sections as my Selec manual indicates? Do I separate the engine at the Flywheel housing to remove? or behind this? What do I need to worry about when I re-install for sealing the transom? I am assuming I should replace all bellows and water hose at this time, regardless of apparent condition. This is in a 1977 Fiberform Flying Bridge Cruiser. 27 X 10 wide, that has been sitting 10+ years. Thanks for any advice that comes."
 
"1) You can just remove th

"1) You can just remove the upper gear section.
2) I suggest you pull engine and flywheel housing together. For that, just remove the 6 bolts from the clamping ring.
3) Unless it is corroded and you are going to replace it, you will normally leave the transom shield in place. The two large o-rings sandwiched at each side of the transom shield are the main components you have to watch for. They often can be reused, but in case of doubt just replace them.

Also, unless the transom has been redone recently, I would expect it to be gone by now (Fiberforms had a bad reputation for transom rot as far as I can recall).

3) Definitely replace the drive bellows, and the exhaust bellows is also advisable to replace. Regarding the water hose, it can be reused if in good condition; but a new one is not too expensive, you may consider replacing it as well. Chances are that the hose connector in the outdrive will also need replacement.

4) I suggest you should take the time to replace both bearings and both seals in the primary drive shaft. I believe your particular setup has a Borj Wagner adaptor attached to the flywheel cover.

5) Once you have pulled the engine from the boat, check the condition of the transom shield. Chances are it will be corroded at the bottom, below the exhaust Y-pipe. Make also sure that the sleeve guiding the shift cable is in top condition, but if you have to replace it you may find it's not easy to remove. Also, chances are the Y-pipe will be in less than perfect condition and you may be looking at renewal. Not sure how easy they are to find new.

6) Another area of concern in your boat could be the 6 carriage bolts keeping the transom shield attached to the transom. They are originally galvanized, but after 30 years in place they may be wasted away.

Good luck with your project."
 
"The transom and stringers app

"The transom and stringers appear to be solid. The boat does not appear to have been used much, and has been sitting 13 years. How can I better check this? Pull the entire outdrive and inspect it? Will the engine come straight up when I have removed the 6 Bell housing to transom shield bolts?"
 
"The AQ 240A has not been used

"The AQ 240A has not been used for years, so this is no doubt an older system. Note that the clamping collar bolts can be corroded. If you have the option of leaving the Flywheel Cover in place while you remove the engine only, you will have access to the six bolt bosses within this F/C. Now you can apply some heat to these six areas and reduce the risk of breaking bolts.
Had a man come by just yesterday for this very same reason..... EDM bolt extraction in an otherwise perfectly good B/W VP Primary Drive Shaft adapter...... that now can't be used until repaired.

I pretty much agree on El P's points; 1, 3, and the second 3 (would that be 3a El P? LOL), 4 (a biggy in my book), 5 and 6."
 
"You can either remove the who

"You can either remove the whole outdrive or just the upper gear assembly, that's up to you. Once you have removed the 6 bolts from the clamping ring you should be able to pull the engine.

To check for rot in the transom, just poke on it with a screwdriver from the inside of the boat. If there is a soft (rotted) area, the screwdriver will go into the rot with no difficulty."
 
"BTW, these six tap bolt, clam

"BTW, these six tap bolt, clamping ring threads in the Flywheel Cover are a "thread insert".... they are not final dimension aluminum threads.
They are not easy to extract broken bolts from without risking damage to the thread insert.
These inserts are set deep.
These are not a standard Heli-Coil!

The EDM process per bolt hole can range from $60 and up for each one.

This is why I am suggesting (based on no history of this old drive system and/or how long it's been since last removal) that you use caution when removing these six clamping collar bolts.

BTW, this AQ 240 is likely using the Borg Warner/Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing, of which are getting very hard to find in a used part these days.
Food for thought!


You won't know how valuable this information is if you get lucky and don't break any bolts.... and I hope you don't! However, if you do break one or two, you'll wish you had paid attention to this suggestion.

."
 
"<font color=""0000ff"">BTW, t

"<font color=""0000ff"">BTW, this AQ 240 is likely using the Borg Warner/ Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing, of which are getting very hard to find used these days....</font>

Yeah, I have saved a couple of them for a rainy day...
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