Logo
FULL SITE MENU

potential boat purchase - please help!

C

chris craft rookie

New member
[h=2]Need advice on potential boat purchase[/h]
I am looking at an extremely clean 1973 25 ft. Chris Craft - I think it is the express cruiser model. I have not inspected the boat myself, but plan to do so this week. I am concerned about the engine only because it might be a challenge for me to get it in the water and test it before purchase. I know how to do a test on an outboard, but not an inboard when it is out of water. The asking price is good at 5K with a nice trailer and many pictures show the boat in great condition in and out. I do not want to spend an extra 500.00 on a survey, but could be talked into it if I need to do it. I think this boat will sell fast and I do not want to lose it since after much research and many visits to other boats in this price range, this one really seems to be perfect for me. Am I taking too much of a chance? What minor tests can I do to the engine with it being out of the water?​
 
What minor tests can I do to the engine with it being out of the water?
Click to expand...

Check compression on each cylinder. If it's an I/O it can easily be run up to 1500 RPM w/a set of muffs and a garden hose. It's a 40 yr old boat! Look out for floor, stringer and transom rot. See if the owner has any repair/service records. When were the exhaust manifolds last replaced? When were the outdrive bellows last replaced...check for worn/rotted? Get a rag and a screwdriver to remove the L/U oil drain screw...check it for oil color and metal chunks on the magnet screw.
 
Here is my suggestion,

This is a 1973 almost 40 years old, BIG PROBLEM!!

Expect to and plan on,

1. replacing fuel cell. all fuel lines and filters including fill line and vent line.
2. repower with a complete new engine and outdrive (if so equipped). If it is a straight inboard then have transmission rebiult.

If this is a outdrive what drive(s)? what engine (s)


No matter how nice the boat may be cosmetically 40 year old mechanics should be the focus.


As far as testing it we need to know what type of propulsion, staright inboard or outdrive????


Also dont forget the wiring is also 40 years old............should be checked out real well.

If this boat has a fiberglass gas tank it MUST be replaced due to ethanol in the fuel..........
 
Spend the money on a survey.

"it might be a challenge for me to get it in the water and test it before purchase..."

The surveyor will do that and look at a bazillion things you'll think to look at and later forget, and a bazillion other things you or I would never in a million years think to look at.
You'll get a complete written report, documenting everything. It's also a good bargaining tool when the surveyor comes back with the laundry list of stuff that needs fixin', you'll very likely be able to get that $500 and then some knocked off the price.
 
The test is called a "Sea Trial", and quite frankly, you should do a sea trial before purchasing.
This is pretty much protocol in the sales industry, and is quite expected that the owner or broker would be involved and/or provide this.
If the boat does not perform as per what could be expected of a similar boat, then this becomes a NO Deal, or re-negotiations take place.

As for a Survey.... this could be the best $500 that you'll spend for checking out a boat that is almost 40 years old.
$500 for a NO GO, is much better than $500 in the pocket, and then $4,000 worth of unforeseen repairs for a $5k boat to begin with.


Perhaps ask the current owner if he'll share in the expense of a survey and then own the survey should the deal not go through.
Likely not, but certainly worth the asking.

Ask the current owner if he'll burden the survey cost if any major issues are found.
Again, likely not, but perhaps worth the asking.


As to the DIY'r check list.... I would agree with the previous post. The current owner or broker may want to be involved in this.
I would not, however, be responsible for re-installing any drive drain plugs. Let the owner or the broker's mechanic assume this responsibility.


The un-written rule of thumb for boat ownership:
"Boats are never investments in terms of financial re-cooporation, and are always expenses. We just use it up in the form of family and friends enjoyment!" :)
 
Ah, good question, Bill!
He posted this in the Merc section, so I did not think to ask that question.

Mr. Chris Craft Rookie, if this an OMC Stringer Drive, I'd continue searching.
The last thing that you'd want would be an OMC Stringer Drive that was in production during this year range.

Bill, did Chris Craft use OMC in their 25 footers back then????
 
Ayuh,.... I've gutted 'em of both OMCs, 'n Volvos of that vintage...

Never seen a Mercruiser in 1, that I didn't put there....
 
I repeat what I said above.
It's a 40 yr old boat!
Click to expand...
I hope the boat is in great shape! Otherwise, unless you are capable of restoring this grand boat to its original condition yourself it will be a money pit from day one. For a remfg. engine and outdrive upgrade the parts alone are somewhere around $5K. You'll end up spending $250 for wiring uprgrades...lots of corrosion in old wire harnesses unless the original mfg. installed tinned wire which I doubt...cost prohibitive for a production boat. A new power trim unit will run $350-$450. A gauge upgrade package is availlable for a few hundred. If the upohlstery is good that's a plus...if not Bring Out Another Thousand. I bet the floor has been replaced once...if not IF it needs done there's a few grand more if the stringers are in good shape. Add a couple grand more to replace the transom. What's the condition of the gelcoat? It's a bitch to wet sand and buff it out.
 
thanks to all. I am going to take a good look at it and see if I even want a survey, but will do so for sure if I even think of buying the boat. It does not have an outdrive, but has a straight shaft to propeller. Comes with a perfect 307 engine, and he sounds like a nice guy, so I trust him. Kidding, wish me luck, but that easy going bass boat is looking better by the minute. Thanks again to the boaters!
 
That 307 is way under powered for a boat of that size and wieght...............That should be a min of a 350 and as I said in another thread when you reach 22 ft and larger then a 454 minimum is the right size for that.

25 ft with a 307 is a slug..............no way around it.........wether the motor runs good or not........probably wont go past 25 mph.........if it even get there...
 
Update:

Thanks again for the suggestions here guys. I went thru the boat with my mechanic. First off, we were both pleasantly surprised by the overall appearance of exterior hull, interior and the engine compartment. There was hardly any mildew or odor at all in the cabin and has been well kept. Hull, stringers, all interior wood and trim looks great. I was very surprised to see virtually no water damage or fiberglass repair evidence. Propeller looks fine along with a spare on the boat. Trailer is beautiful, probably worth 1500.00-2,000.00 by itself with electric winch, good tires, lights, double axle, etc. Transon solid, and the boat is all fiberglass including all decking and none was soft. I will be however going back thru to check every inch. As for the engine, I really thought there is no way I will buy this after reading these posts and talking to my people. I dug deep into the hull and pulled every cushion and entrance and could find no apparant issues with the interior of the hull. I was, as was my mechanic, pleasantly surprised that it appears to have evidence of a recent valve job, transmission was redone, and overall, it looked great including the wiring, and organizaiton of the area including solid engine mounts, stringers, and battery area. Bilge area was decent, pump looked good, no real evidence of issues at this time. I am not concerned with not having enough engine power. This 307 has a good track record and will be somewhat efficient with only two barrels. I am totally fine with cruising at 20-25, most of the time will be cruising slow anyway as this is for fishing walleye and day cruising. I am on a small river between lake huron and Lake St. Clair and probably will not even take it to Erie, but could if I need to on a nice day. As for the straight shaft vs. outdrive, my people tell me, good for you, one less major expense. The drawback of struggling with reverse is not a problem since my particular boat slip is our cottage with a huge river to pull around and get situated. I do not to tight fit in any areas unless I am visiting. As for depth, no worries, I am in deep water areas and will play it safe. I have to check the wiring to the control board, but all wiring for bilge and engine looked fairly new and/or maintained, not much orignal left. In fact, the mechanic kept rattleing off items that were not original. After more conversation, we think it was owned previously by a guy who was best buddies with a top marina and my mechanic suspects this is why we have a well maintained boat all these years later. I got the seller to agree to let my mechanic take it for a few days to get a good compression and leak test (180.00). Upon one more in depth inspection and hopefully a short list of items to do from the mechanic, I believe I will make an offer of 3500.00 - 4500.00 depending on the mechanic results. Okay, give it to me, what did I forget? I will go back (2.5 hour drive) for a half day of investigating before I make an offer. Thanks again for helping out a rookie! (I have owned pontoon boats, fished my whole life, have smaller boats and watched my Dad blow thousands, so I am not a total rookie, thanks again.)
 
Back
Top