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PLease help me!! 1999 200 hp evinrude commercial ( not a fitch ) boggs down when i apply throttle

C

chris myers

Member
Hello I am about to go completely crazy. I have a 200 Hp commercial evinrude that my boat mechanic put on my ranger. I have rebuilt all carbs replaced all fuel lines, drained tanks, checked T valve for leaks replaced water seperator and everything else I can think of.
This motor when I got it had already had the VRO pump disengaged and previous owner had been premixing fuel. The oil side of the pump has been sealed off and we are just using the gas side of the VRO..
This is exeactly how previous owner ran it with no problems.I even took the VRo pump off and installed a 6PSI electric fuel pump just to see if that would help but motor still bogged when I apply half to full throttle.
When I run it on the water hose it will SCREAM!! But in the water it idles great, starts great and runs well under 2000 rpm then it bogges when I apply throttle it absolutely will not get on plane unless I hold the choke in and then it will slowly gain rpm and tilt over on plain and at that time I trim the motor up and it will climb to about 4600 rpm as long as I hold the choke in.. when I let off choke it dies...
The weirdest thing about this whole mess is sometimes early in the morning if I am going fishing and I start it up it will take off like a bat out of hell and run perfect for a half of a mile or so. And when I cut it off to fish then restart it its back to square one........

Any help would be so much appreciated. I have been told that its probley something so simple that I will die when I figure it out.. my email is. [email protected]
Thank you thank you thank you......
 
Is there some type of sensor that will not allow the motor to run at high rpms?
Could it be gas tank caps ? (I read something bout caps not Venting but isn't that what the overflow hole on the sides of the boat do? Everytime I fill tanks up gas pours out a little so doesn't that mean tanks are venting?)
 
Sounds like a fuel restriction. When the carbs were rebuilt did you blow air back through the float seat towards the fuel line? This spot is often over looked during carb rebuilding.
 
When the carbs where rebuilt where the idle plugs removed??? Where. They replaced and sealed???
Can u hear a air leak ?? sounds like air leak or main jets no flowing right
 
Thanks for responding, yes we blew air backwards forwards sideways up and down..lol
There are two brass jets, each with a diff size hole. How do you know Wichita way to install these..
I put smaller orphase. To leftside and slightly larger to right side is this correct?
 
Can not hear any air leaks. At all.. when you look at carbs straight on there are two brass screws each with slightly diff size holes. (Jets???) I am unsure wich goes in spot on right or left..
I put each garb the same, smaller orphase. To left larger to right.. what are these for? ?
 
When we first put motor on my ranger the fly wheel magnets broke and my friend /mechanic
put a new fly wheel on it could he have not lined this up properly with the stator and this be my problem???
if so why does it run like a scalded dog for bout a half a mile one out of five times then the rest of the time I have to hold choke in?? Just wondering all possibilities
 
Have you done a proper link/sync to this engine? Starting from the throttle plates??
When you rebuilt carbs, did you remove the main jets?
 
Something's wrong. I am guessing by your description tha the model number is
E200WPXEE (N or S). Both these models have a single idle air bleed orifice, and an adjustable idle mixture screw.

If you have two air orifices in the front of the carb, and no mix screw, someone has put much older carbs on the engine.
And, they might have not changed the throttle plates along with the carb black body.

Another hint is that there is a metal plate on the side of each carb black body. Yours should have 5 screws holding it on.
If it has 4 or 2 screws...older carbs.

Has this ever run right?
 
Hey thanks for your response... actually it has not run great since I got it..
the model # is actually e200fpleec. I was told it was a commercial low compression (90)
In each cylinder.. (looper)
The carbs do have two orfices (brass screws with two diff size holes) on left side of each carb if you are looking straight into them from inside the boat..
If these are wrong carbs then why does it take off like a bat out of hell for a mile then bogged and back to square one with the choking in order to keep on plain.
Also which orfice. ( small hole or big hole. ) goes on left and Wichita on right?
Thanks for your response
 
Ok....well....

The "F" in there means that it is a Ficht.....so someone has swapped a carbed powerhead onto the E200F midsection / transom bracket.

Personally, I think you are better off with what you have, but you will not get it serviced reliably until you know exactly what you do have.

So, you have early nineties carbs, and probably and early nineties powerhead....

You will have to determine which year for the carbs, as the air bleed jets changed around very much thru those years.
Also, your reference to right and left regarding the air bleeds....that is confusing me...to me it is up or down, not right or left. But anyway....

You will need the air bleed number that is stamped on the face of each one, and you will need to go to shop.evinrude.com and start comparing years, beginning with 1990 and go thru 1995 to see what matches best.
The drawings show a dotted line from the air bleed to the body, and you can determine where the air bleeds go by that.

Choking to keep up speed is an indication of fuel restriction or starvation. Try pumping the primer bulb when it boggs down. If it picks up, then fuel pump.

You also should have a fuel restriction warning that just MIGHT not be working. Consider that, and try a completely separate tank, primer bulb, etc. straight to the fuel pump inlet to eliminate any restrictions in the boat tank.
 
Post up some pics. Pics of the sides and front of the carbs, with enough detail, and pics of the air silencer, and pics of the throttle linkages.

Do you have water hoses running around from the rear of the engine to the throttle linkages? Do you have the big red plug connector for boat harness, or is it the modular Deutsch connectors?

All these things have a specific year (or year range) associated with them.
 
I know it has a big red plug connector..it is at the lake right now I got a guy who s ays hes thinking its the stator not working on high end... he said he would diagnose it for free, but I have heard that before...
I will post some pics thur or so.... I do know that on the sides of the carbs its only two screws holding on a small aluminum plate ( black) ...
 
So with a big red plug, and side plates with two screws...you are in the early 90s.....like 90 thru 92 or so.
I haven't looked at the parts list, but it is early 90's.

You will also have two brass air bleed jets visible on the face of the carbs at about the 8 -9 o'clock position, and you will have a huge air silencer with bolts all around holding it all together. Get the numbers off the air bleeds...stamped on the face of each one, very little stamps. A single number like 28 or 34...something like that. Verify all this please for me.

Look for a water control valve on the throttle linkage. Has water hoses going from it back around the the rear of the engine (heads, thermos) area.
 
That big red plug tells us that it is no later than a 1995 model... So lets try to narrow it down further...
Does it have 2 squarish looking power packs or the one butterfly type pack?
Is there a water valve in the top left hand corner of the exhaust part of the block?
 
There are two air bleeds on each carb. Can you not get the numbers of both air bleeds? AND verify that they are all the same across all 6 carbs?

But I gotta tell ya....68 is kinda big for those air bleeds. I will look on the parts list anyway. For that matter YOU could look on the parts list for 1989 thru 1994 200 HP carbs using #68 air bleeds. Take you about 20 minutes.
 
Hey daselbee those orfice #s are 28 at nine o'clock position and 38 at eight o'clock position
I am going to try to post some pics right now as well as model and serial # on boat motor
 
I think it is a 1988 powerhead on a Ficht midsection. The Ficht probably blew up, and they put this powerhead on it.
My guess.
I cannot find that air bleed orifice combination on any carb models from 1988 thru 1991, so someone might have re-jetted it to make it idle better....who knows.....
I would put the #28 in the lower location (eight o'clock) and the #38 in the upper location (nine o'clock) on the face of the carb.
Your post #21 above would indicate that they are backwards.


Anyway...back to your real problem....bogging on acceleration.

I had bogging that got worse and worse....and I kinda zoomed in on the carbs by pushing the key in when accelerating. If it picks up, fuel clog somewhere in the carbs. You will see a round welch plug on the sides of the throttle bodies, about the size of a dime. There are very small drill holes behind there that open into the throttle bore right at the throttle plate. If those are clogged...bad idle and bogging.

But there are other things that will cause this....spark timing, link and sync, dropped cylinder...

I would start by pressing the key in while bogging. If no help there in pinpointing carbs, then you will need to look at the ignition system, quality of the spark, and timing advance.

I don't think it is fuel pump related, because you say it takes off and runs right if you can get past the bog.

I would be looking at clogged idle and intermediate passages in the carbs and throttle plates.
It may help a bit to get a can of spray carb cleaner with the little straw....that straw fits right in those idle air bleeds, and you could spray that in there while running. Hit all 12 of them. If whatever is in there will dissolve....you might get lucky.

The proper way is to completely disassemble the carbs and clean thoroughly.

You might want to replace all your fuel lines too. They are quite old now, and black crap will come off the inside of the lines and clog your carbs, especially with the ethanol problem we have.
 
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