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OMC fuel connector

SuperT

SuperT

Regular Contributor
My buddy has a irritating problem with his fuel connector. When he plugs it into the tank it will sometimes bleed gas out of one of the two pins that get compressed when you lock it on the tank. As you look at the male connector on tank, it's the right one next to the fuel supply connector. Problem is still there with a different female connector also.
I've always thought that one was for venting the tank, but when he squeezes the bulb it'll start to leak there. And yes, the bulb is connected correctly. When he switches to his other tank no leak. What the heck is going on here??

When I pulled the gauge/connector assembly off tank and pushed the above described pin in, the fuel would drain out the suction tube. I just cannot connect the dots as to what the problem is. That connector seems to be very simple.:confused:
 
The pins are actually valves... one for air, one for gas. A "O" Ring is faulty within the tank fitting, that is the fitting that is part of the tank. The leak has nothing to do with the connector on the hose.

The tank "O" Ring is a replaceable item when one knows what they're doing. The alternative is to buy another tank.
 
joereeves said:
The pins are actually valves... one for air, one for gas. A "O" Ring is faulty within the tank fitting, that is the fitting that is part of the tank. The leak has nothing to do with the connector on the hose.

The tank "O" Ring is a replaceable item when one knows what they're doing. The alternative is to buy another tank.
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How do you go about fixing it? We even replaced the tank assembly with one I had from a tank I scrapped with the same results. That's what threw me.

So the one on the right is fuel and the one on the left is air?
 
I don't remember which pin is which.... I always replaced the O Rings in both.

You replaced the fitting that's attached to the tank and it still leaked? Yeah, that would throw you a bit.

First off, you need to know what O Rings and core plugs are needed... Parts Manual. It's necessary to remove the core plugs to gain access to the O Rings.
 
Used to replace the o-rings ( 3 of them ) on these tanks all the time.--------These metal tanks are far superior to the plastic ones available today !!!
 
racerone said:
Used to replace the o-rings ( 3 of them ) on these tanks all the time.--------These metal tanks are far superior to the plastic ones available today !!!
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That's exactly why we're trying to resolve this issue. Where can I locate the diagram that shows me what I'm dealing with?
 
Procedure is to remove the core plugs from the backside of the housing (opposite end of the pins). There is a spring behind the core plug. It and the pin can now be removed. One of the pins has a brass washer around it. Stick a punch into that washer and rock it back and forth to remove it. You can now replace all three O-rings, and reassemble with new core plugs.

When you go to buy parts, you need to know that the tiny one behind he brass washer came in two sizes, according to year of manufacture of the tank. If you have any doubt, just buy both.

The brass washer is held in by staking the aluminum around it with a hammer and screwdriver.

Get the parts from any Evinrude dealer
 
Parts and parts list/diagram right here at marineengine.com The tiniest o-ring was used in 1958-1960, larger tiny one in later years
 
fdrgator said:
Procedure is to remove the core plugs from the backside of the housing (opposite end of the pins). There is a spring behind the core plug. It and the pin can now be removed. One of the pins has a brass washer around it. Stick a punch into that washer and rock it back and forth to remove it. You can now replace all three O-rings, and reassemble with new core plugs.

When you go to buy parts, you need to know that the tiny one behind he brass washer came in two sizes, according to year of manufacture of the tank. If you have any doubt, just buy both.

The brass washer is held in by staking the aluminum around it with a hammer and screwdriver.

Get the parts from any Evinrude dealer
Click to expand...

Whats the easiest/best way to remove the core plugs?
 
Either poke a hole through the center of it with a small punch (like 3/32") and use the punch to rock it back & forth to remove it, OR drill a small hole through it and rock it out. But be careful, you can mess the spring up with that drill. I advise the punch method.
 
fdrgator said:
Either poke a hole through the center of it with a small punch (like 3/32") and use the punch to rock it back & forth to remove it, OR drill a small hole through it and rock it out. But be careful, you can mess the spring up with that drill. I advise the punch method.
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Thanks for the help.
 
On the tank side you don't really need to use an OMC connector or any connector at all. If the tank needs to be moved out of the boat the simplest thing is to go to anywhere that sells fuel connectors (ie your nearest Walmart) and buy a male/female set and replace them as a pair - I like the mercury style better than the OMC for this..

If you do not need to remove the tank then it's better to just get a threaded nipple and ditch those fittings, secure the fuel line with a hose clamp.

Normally you should be going from the fuel tank to a water separating filter permanently installed in the boat, then to the outboard. So also for the engine side, again, you really do not need to use the connector either. They sell marine bulkhead fuel fittings that basically have a nuts on both sides, and a nipple on both sides, so that you can securely connect fuel (and oil if equipped) lines.

Just my humble opinion but the first thing I do with any engine I own is remove unnecessary quick-disconnects, changing to nipples, then if I need a disconnect I use the Merc style.

Jon
 
leaky said:
On the tank side you don't really need to use an OMC connector or any connector at all. If the tank needs to be moved out of the boat the simplest thing is to go to anywhere that sells fuel connectors (ie your nearest Walmart) and buy a male/female set and replace them as a pair - I like the mercury style better than the OMC for this..

If you do not need to remove the tank then it's better to just get a threaded nipple and ditch those fittings, secure the fuel line with a hose clamp.

Normally you should be going from the fuel tank to a water separating filter permanently installed in the boat, then to the outboard. So also for the engine side, again, you really do not need to use the connector either. They sell marine bulkhead fuel fittings that basically have a nuts on both sides, and a nipple on both sides, so that you can securely connect fuel (and oil if equipped) lines.

Just my humble opinion but the first thing I do with any engine I own is remove unnecessary quick-disconnects, changing to nipples, then if I need a disconnect I use the Merc style.

Jon
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I don't know how that could be done with a steel OMC/Johnson 6 gal tank? Got a picture of what your telling me?
 
SuperT said:
I don't know how that could be done with a steel OMC/Johnson 6 gal tank? Got a picture of what your telling me?
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Oh maybe it can't, not sure in the last 10 years if I've even seen of those in use, although I've got a few hanging around..

If it can be done the fitting unscrews from the tank - this is the case usually, ie the standard red plastic 6 gallon thing or any other larger tank.

Sometimes it works out better (if you must have quick disconnect) to use a barb screwed into the tank followed by a short section of hose and your quick disconnect fitting..

But if what you got there doesn't allow changing the fitting then all you can do is fix what you got or use another tank.

Jon
 
Re: OMC fuel connector u can find how to repair ur self online

:eek:
joereeves said:
The pins are actually valves... one for air, one for gas. A "O" Ring is faulty within the tank fitting, that is the fitting that is part of the tank. The leak has nothing to do with the connector on the hose.

The tank "O" Ring is a replaceable item when one knows what they're doing. The alternative is to buy another tank.
Click to expand...
 
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