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holinwtr

Regular Contributor
I've got a #1 drive with a 165 inline 6. I've pulled the outdrive off the boat and I've got the lower and upper seperated. I'm resealing both units. I've got a watery oil mix in the u-joint bellows which means the oil seal right behind the u-joint is blown right? So I've gotta get the u-joint roller bearing retainer off. I don't have access to the special wrench. Do you guys know of any other way to get that big a#% nut off?
Any other special info you guys know off that would help with this job is greatly appreciated. I love doing this kind of stuff myself. Getting into the inner workings makes me appreciate my boat even more when its running good.
Also I think I know why I've got a ton of water in the outdrive after only running it for an hour. There was no oil seal right above the impeller. I don't know where it went but its just gone. I didn't even realize one went there until I really looked at the exploded view in the manual. I think I'm a better mechanic than the yahoos I used to take my boat to for service. Another reason I'm doing this myself.
 
Really need the wrench to torque it back properly. I doubt it`s what you call a seal. It`s called a slinger washer.Most water intrusions are from bad bellows , shift shaft seal, water pump base seals, upper drive shaft seals, cracked case, missing quad seal.
 
The seal he is refering to is commonly called the upper carrier seal. If this is bad and the gear oil was allready contaminated then it would allow the milky gear oil to get into the bellows.

Considering it is a 1 or I drive it is possible for several seals to be bad...............30 + year old drive with unknown history..........

The only way to be sure is to pressure check the drive.

Special tool is required for disassembly but mostly for reassembly to achieve propper torque.
 
In my Seloc manual they are showing an oil seal right behind the retainer nut in the exploded view. In order for oily water to get into the u-joint bellows that has to be blown right? If it's the bellows that's leaking it would just be water and no oil.
 
goes both ways, most times the seal grooves the input yoke or there was water in the boot at some point to start creating some rust and the rust particules damaged the seal.Assemble the unit and use a hand pump, bicycle pump, etc and a gauge hooked into the top vent plug
Use the Seloc as a knee pad and dounload the Merc manual from my link.
As for the seal , try a good auto parts store for this seal. It`s the OEM type.
National 712250
old oem 483323VGO
 
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If water get into the bellows and there is a lot of grease in there AS THERE SHOULD BE FROM REGULAR SERVICE than the water will mix with the grease and create a milky mess.

It would appear you do not have much experience with this?

Be careful trying to tear one of these apart and putting it back together without the correct tools and techniques. Could cost a lot more than paying someone with the tools and experience to do the job correctly for you.............just saying......
 
Bt Doctur said:
page 3A-7 ,this link. You need 200 ft/lbs to tighten it properly.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6A3R3.PDF
Click to expand...


The spec is 200 ft lbs but be very carefull with that..........!!!!

If you read one of the other pages it shows what the actuall torque setting on a torque wrench should be based on the length of the torque wrench used.............

If one was to torque that nut to 200 it would not be a good thing.............just saying.....

The diagram shows what the special tool looks like and it also shows why it is needed due to the torque spec including it into the calculation..........My torque wrench is 20 inches long so my torque setting is 125 ft lbs as an example..........
 
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The problem with sending it to a marine mechanic is; There isn't a good one within 2 hours of where I live. The only one close, like I said, didn't even know there was supposed to be an oil seal above the impeller. Besides, that's what this forum is for. Guys like me to get help doing jobs like this. I'm just going to have to buy the spanner wrench and a torque wrench to do this job. I put a mark on the retainer nut and the housing so there wont be a huge issue with torqing it when I put it back on. I also bought a reseal kit for the upper and lower units and they came with all the seals I need.

One other question; How do you grease the gimbal bearing while I've got this thing apart? I can't see any grease fittings anywhere.
 
depends on the year. There is usually a grease fitting on the stbd side close to the hull. The older one were held in place with a snap ring and shim stock and were not serviceable. The newer type had a tolerance ring system.Check the manual link to see what yours looks like.If newer type, you can make a greasing device easily.
You should be manual #1 or #2 .here
Merc service manual links. - iboats Boating Forums
 
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I noticed a "hose" that comes down and out on the starboard side right up against the transom. I gues you just pump that thing full of grease. I heard somewhere like 40 pumps.
 
No, do your 4 hyd. lines connect at the bottom of the transom housing or do the lines appear to come thru the housing sides?And how many lines are on each cylinder?
 
Well, I got that big retainer nut off without buying that $60 wrench. I just used a big C clamp with a 4' piece of pipe on the handle. That thing came right off. Got all the oil seals changed and put everything on the upper unit back together.

That grease zirk for the gimbal bearing was right where I thought it was. Only had to put about 5 shots in and grease came out of the bearing.

Now I'm just waiting for the water pump kit to come in the mail and I'll be able to reseal the lower unit and get everything back on before Memorial Day.

Bt, my hyd lines all connect to the fitting underneath the outdrive. It changes from 4 lines to 2 right there.
 
How much torque did you put on the nut???

To little and you may be replacing the upper gear set. Too much and you may be replacing the bearing set.

Did you replace the O-ring also when you pulled the upper carrier assembly out?

did you torque the nut that holds the gear and the bearing assembly together??
 
holinwtr, Since you have the same drive as I do I was wondering if you would look to see if there is an approx. 1/8 inch hole above the bottom nut of the three on the port side that holds the drive to the transom assembly. It's hard to see because it is slightly up and black as everything else is. I have water squirting from there and don't ever remember seeing it come from there before. I'm trying to get some idea of it's purpose and if it means I have a problem. There is a drain hole that is similar to this on the bottom of the drive on the starboard side but water never squirts out of it when on the muffs. Thanks for looking! Mark
 
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