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No spark aq130c/270

T

Tonisher

Member
Here the situation bought the boat a couple months back. I replaced fuel filter, plugs and wires, oil and filter. I fix so other minor issues with help on this forum. I took the boat out ran great. I took the boat out again for a 3 hours everything was great until the motor died. I pulled back the engine cover and there was a lot of water in the engine compartment. My sump pump all of a sudden quit working on me. I took a cup and shoveled the water out the boat. I went to start the boat it would turn over but wouldn't start. I had a gentleman tow me back to the boat dock. I wait a couple day that way the engine and all electrical component could dry out. When to start the boat on muffs would only turn over but would start. I figure either a fuel or spark issue check fuel everything was OK. I check to see if I was get spark. (NO SPARK) So I was thinking that it could be something to do with the distributor of coil unsure where to look and check to find problem. I another possible is maybe a main fuse unsure where to look and check to find problem. If anyone can shed so light and insight on this issue, it would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. If you need anymore information please let me know.
 
The only way to really tell is backtrack from the plug wires on back thru the wiring harness plug and back to the switch if necessary.
 
Whats the best tool to back track to the switch? ohm's or test light? Do you no where the main fuse would be, or if there is a fuse panel? Thanks for the reply:)
 
Tonisher said:
Whats the best tool to back track to the switch? ohm's or test light? Do you no where the main fuse would be, or if there is a fuse panel? Thanks for the reply:)
Click to expand...

Either one will work. Are you saying that you have no power at all from the spark plugs back to the wiring harness connection? Do you have power to the distributor? To the coil?

Depending on the style of wiring harness, you MAY have some fuses mounted on the coil bracket. If it's not there, you're just going to have to trace out the wiring to look for an inline fuse
 
When i check a while back I had power at the coil. I don't think I check to see If I had power at the distributor? I also have another project I'm working on at the moment. Thanks for the info when I get a little extra time I will check power at the distributor. I will also track down the fuse to see if it OK. I will let you know what I come up with so as I can get to it. Thanks again Joe
 
If this is a mechanical contact type ignition system, you will have no power to the distributor.
The distributor acts as a contacting.... or better yet, a "triggering" device, that essentially takes the primary side of the coil circuit to Negative.

The points must be in good condition, and the condensor must also be good.

With points close, the circuit for the ignition coil is closed mementarily.
During this event, the coil becomes saturated!

When the points break, the primary field collapses, thus creating a higher voltage spark on the secondary side of the coil.
This is then directed to the rotor, and then on to each spark plug wire as per indexing.

The coil must have power on the + side.... and is very likely using a ballast resistor for a voltage drop.
See if yours is equipped with this ballast resistor.
With ignition ON, check the voltage at the + side.
IOW, a reading of voltage from + side to a Negative source.... NOT the - side of the coil!

You manually can trick the coil into thinking that the contact points are triggering it.... or you can simply crank the engine over.

With a spark plug wire placed directly into to top of the coil (not the cap), place a known-to-be-good spark plug into the wire boot.
Allow the spark plug body to make a good negative contact to the engine block.
(make sure that you have no fuel vapors present)

Now with power ON, trigger the ignition, and see if you get a decent colored spark.

If you get a good hot spark, then you'll know that at least this side of the system is working.

Now move on to the actual distributor, and look for points of failure, cap/rotor issues, etc.

NOTE: if this is using the Pertronix Ignitor (Hall Effect) kit, then the distributor will have power to one side of the Pertronix unit.
This will be the red wire.
In order to trigger for testing, the engine must be cranked over to operate the Hall Effect system.


Use the P of E... (process of elimination)... one item at a time, and you'll get it!

Be sure to check/set ignition timing.
Not only BASE advance, but check the progressive advance as per OEM specs.
No progressive advance... no performance!
You want to see the OEM! Not Seloc.... not Clymers!
 
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Thats very nice of you to give my all this helpful information.:) Been so busy helping other out haven't really had time to work on the boat. I will let you know what I find, thanks again for all you help.

p.s. I will find out what kind of ignition system (coil, points, distributor). Would I be better off change the point system to a newer style distributor. Is there a certain system, brand, part # you recommend.
 
The only electronic unit that I am aware of for this older engine, would be the Pertronix kit, and I'm not too fond of these kits intrinsically.
If you go to the kit, you may want to have the distributor re-bushed, and re-calibrated for the advance curve/limit.
1972..... that's a 39 year old distributor, with 39 year old shaft bushings, and with a 39 year old mechanical advancing sytem in it.

If this wasn't so dang important, I'd say "run it"!
 
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