new Yamaha remote F20 ignores control box electrically

[otterlake]

I have a brand new Yamaha F20, a 20HP outboard boat motor, specifically the remote-only model (steering/throttle/shift).


I studied carefully everything and installed a center console, shift cable, throttle cable, and even managed to get that thick wiring cable's “wiring harness” plug thru the motor and plugged in and fastened.
I hooked up power to the motor (nice, oversized, new deep cycle battery, charged).

The 703 control box I have is brand new but admittedly a generic (not Yamaha, but a clone). I'm regretting that, but the odds are still overwhelmingly against it being defective, probability-wise. Still, maybe it is... but I wish I could troubleshoot whatever is going on electrically:

The mechanical stuff (cables, throttle movement, shifting, steering) all checks out fine, at least as far as a motor without power can display.

With it clicked nicely into Neutral on the control box:
Turning the key does nothing (no electric start).

I have the control box's safety lanyard properly applied; I've used them before (buy I wish that's all it was).

Here's where I was really slayed: with the gas line plugged in and the garden water hose on full (screwed into the flush assembly) I tried the black rubber Start button on the motor: also nothing.
So I got the bright idea to pull the start cord.

Oh, it started beautifully – but there was no way to shut it off!
The control box – turn the key off, pull out the key, pull the safety lanyard off the control box – all totally ignored while the motor kept running and running.


After I tested Forward, Reverse, Idle speed lever – all working fine...

...there appeard to be NO on-board kill switch (on the motor itself) like the tiller version.
I even unplugged the wiring harness/plug and it STILL kept running.

I finally yanked a spark plug cap as not to have to make it run out of gas.
If there is, indeed, an on-the-motor kill switch, it still doesn't fix whatever's wrong.


Now, there were these wires left over, but I thought these were just optional wires for tachometer, etc. etc. and can just be tucked away (?).


I don't know what to do... does this mean the 703 clone is, indeed, defective?

I know there are complaints but honestly most of them work fine if you see the actual number sold versus complaints.
I don't want to return it, buy a Yamaha 703 control box, and do all this horrible uninstalling and re-installing if I'm actually just doing something simple, wrong...???

Thank you so much. I'm at the limit of what the basic User's manual and online videos have taught me.
Most people who buy a new outboard could afford to just take it to a shop, but I can't. I can't hardly afford to cough up another $100 for the tech manual.

If I'm doing something wrong, surely I can learn what.


If it needs a real Yamaha 703, I can re-do it.
But I'll freak if that same thing happens.

Another odd thing was I tried the on-board black rubber Start button on the motor before I pulled the cord, and it didn't electrically start the motor, either.

It's like the electricity just isn't even hooked up or something. Like it just got started with the rope.But the battery is brand new and charged.

** OH – but the power tilt DOES work (directly on the motor, not the control box).


Thanks for any thoughts about what's wrong with my 703 control box installation.. I don't care about looking stupid I just need this to work for my wife and marriage, lol.

With gratitude,
Jeff

 

[makomark]

The leftover wires are for the gauges - tape them up is you dont use them.

the "starter button does not work" suggests something isn't connected on the engine...I can't believe it has a start button without a kill switch...

Assuming the remote is compatible, I'd think the main issue is in the harness connection at the engine.

You are much more likely to get replies if you post this in the yamaha outboard section...or ask the moderator to move it for you - they are very helpful.

 

[otterlake]

The leftover wires are for the gauges - tape them up is you dont use them.

the "starter button does not work" suggests something isn't connected on the engine...I can't believe it has a start button without a kill switch...

Assuming the remote is compatible, I'd think the main issue is in the harness connection at the engine.

You are much more likely to get replies if you post this in the yamaha outboard section...or ask the moderator to move it for you - they are very helpful.

Thanks... I will try to ask a mod to move it to the Yamaha section.

I did have an issue getting the connector to mesh at first but then it seated beautifully. I'll go double-check that it doesn't look like something was binding or bent. There is a bit of an unsettling number of instances of people having these generic "Yamaha" 703 control box clones that just have a little something in need to being fixed electrically or with the wiring.
I really do regret trying to save a couple hundred on something so important for something so expensive and such a pain to un-do completely and re-do. It's only got one job to do -- to specifically be compatible with one brand of motor. The type with the correct number of pins of which there are only two varieties, 7 and 10 I believe, and I have the right one.

Thanks for, so far, indicating there's not some simple fix I'm ignoring, like "Oh the black has to be grounded to DC negative" or something. Lanyard was in place, gear in neutral, happy to start with pull...

The weird thing was that it would not start with the black start button on the motor but the power tilt buttons on the motor did work fine. And the pull rope started it... weird. Maybe when I tried the black start button on the motor itself I hadn't dou ble-checked it was 100% in neutral but I swore I did. The combination of conflicting signs is just weird.

 

[otterlake]

UPDATE !!!

Thanks to MakoMark!

He was a sanity check for me and got me to check the harness connection one more time and try to seat it a little further and
UREKA

Suddenly everything is working!!
The aftermarket connector is SO hard to seat on there properly. It's like it needs a little modification.
But it's working!

Thanks Mark

 

[otterlake]

P.S.
I finally got that sucker to seat down in there better using dielectric grease slathered on metal, rubber gasket, and plastic all three. But the retainer thing fastens into place securely, so I'm not worried about it being too lubed or slipping.